4:88 gears with 35 "
#21
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FWIW:
I have 35's and 4.88's. I bought the complete 4.88 diffs from a 1994 Pickup at a junk yard. $275 for both complete diffs. I saved so much that the extra $$$ went towards a lock-rite locker for the front, LSD for the rear. It's my daily driver.. My speedo is dead on with the GPS, Power and 5th gear are as if I had tiny stock 29" tires with 4.10's.
I have 35's and 4.88's. I bought the complete 4.88 diffs from a 1994 Pickup at a junk yard. $275 for both complete diffs. I saved so much that the extra $$$ went towards a lock-rite locker for the front, LSD for the rear. It's my daily driver.. My speedo is dead on with the GPS, Power and 5th gear are as if I had tiny stock 29" tires with 4.10's.
#22
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New gear sets aren't very expensive. My thinking is that it is worth it to spend $75 extra to get a new set vs. a used set that you don't have any idea how they've been treated or how worn they are.
If I can have a new product for just a little more than the same product used, I'm going with new pretty much every time.
If I can have a new product for just a little more than the same product used, I'm going with new pretty much every time.
every gear set i've ever looked at was around the $150-200 mark, plus the $100-150 for an install kit, then you most likely gotta pay a couple hundred for someone to install it...and multiply by 2 since you gotta do the front also.
#23
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I have 22r 35s, and 4.88s in my 84 and it goes great in 5th. As a matter of fact I ran 35s for a while with 410s and it wasn't too bad. Lots of folks like 5.29s but that's starting to get on the weak side in my opinion. If you can't run 35s with 4.88s its probably time to freshen up your motor anyway. Just my opinion though
#24
where the heck are YOU buying gears at? i'd love a $75 set of gears.
every gear set i've ever looked at was around the $150-200 mark, plus the $100-150 for an install kit, then you most likely gotta pay a couple hundred for someone to install it...and multiply by 2 since you gotta do the front also.
#25
I have 22r 35s, and 4.88s in my 84 and it goes great in 5th. As a matter of fact I ran 35s for a while with 410s and it wasn't too bad. Lots of folks like 5.29s but that's starting to get on the weak side in my opinion. If you can't run 35s with 4.88s its probably time to freshen up your motor anyway. Just my opinion though
How many have drove a toyota 22r or 22re with stock 4.10's and 31' tires, I have and thats where I started my research. If you do the math which gets you with in reason close your mph at 3000 rpm's is 79MPH..I felt the truck had plenty power for what it was and I regularly used 5th gear in town with no problem
Then the lift came and 35's happened with still 4.10's and I daily drove that for a year.(could be worse but was not the best)
Do that same math again :3000 rpm of the engine using a W56-a 5th gear ratio gives you
4.88-75MPH
5.29-69MPH
So running 35's and 4.88 would be a lower gear then running 31's and 4.10 and when accounting tire weights and dual cases im hoping the truck feels like it did with 31's and 4.10
all information was got using
http://www.marlincrawler.com/java/getspd_calc.html
Last edited by bryy; 12-14-2012 at 12:58 PM.
#26
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The width and weight if the tires definitely has an impact. I had 37'x13.5's on 4.10s with little problems (only on overpasses). Then went to 35x15.5 tsl's and had to regear. I went with 4.88s as I'm on the highway a lot. Also dual cased but that's irrelevant on the highway. Good luck. I bought factory v6 3rds with factory 4.88s.
#28
You prob have like 4.10s or 4.30s(which I think came in 3rd gen trucks). You could maybe find a set of factory 4.88s which would help your giddy up. I got three rear factory 4.88 3rd members for my '84(solid axle front) for like $100 bucks from my local Pullapart. I left the front IFS diffs in all of them since I don't have IFS....
Factory IFS 4.88s came in 2nd gen 4runners with factory 31" tires and tow package. Code on door tag is G144 for 4.88. There is a kicker though... You can't use any other gear sets with these housings. It's a thin ring gear since they offset the pinion to accomplish the ratio. Or something like that....
I presume that the Runner in your avatar isn't the one we are referring to? Cause I'm pretty sure that's a 90-95.5 body.
Factory IFS 4.88s came in 2nd gen 4runners with factory 31" tires and tow package. Code on door tag is G144 for 4.88. There is a kicker though... You can't use any other gear sets with these housings. It's a thin ring gear since they offset the pinion to accomplish the ratio. Or something like that....
I presume that the Runner in your avatar isn't the one we are referring to? Cause I'm pretty sure that's a 90-95.5 body.
#30
Yeah i cant pull out in traffic whatsoever without having someone tailgate me.i cant spin the tires even on the softest ground it just creeps slowly.i head from research that 4:56 would be better for me on the highway.i have alot of hills in florida but i dont mind dropping to 3rd gear to climb it.as long as i can go 70mph easily in 5th down the road and get back my mpg im good.im getting like 13 now!! Also im throwing a code 25 and 43 since i got the truck whick from what ive read it looks to be the o2 sensor.any possible waY this could be a big factor?
#31
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O2 sensor may affect a little bit of how much power it seems to have, but it shouldn't be detrimental like you describe.
Where in Fla do you have hills? Central or panhandle is all I can think of, and I'm in Fla weekly at least. My truck can take those hills at 75-80 all day long.
Where in Fla do you have hills? Central or panhandle is all I can think of, and I'm in Fla weekly at least. My truck can take those hills at 75-80 all day long.
#32
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Sorry, to answer your question, yes, 4.56 would give you a bit longer legs( lower RPM for cruising) but with an auto, I believe you would want the 4.88s since they are pretty long-legged by nature. Auto trannys bring the cruise RPM down lower than a 5spd would.
If you had your auto equipped truck with 33s, and my 5spd truck with 33s, both with 4.88 gearing, your RPM would be lower than mine at highway speeds.
If you had your auto equipped truck with 33s, and my 5spd truck with 33s, both with 4.88 gearing, your RPM would be lower than mine at highway speeds.
#33
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You should run 5:29's with 35" tires. 4.88's are good up 33" and will work okay with 31" tires. Years ago there were some good tech articles in magazines about changing gears and nobody here talks about breakage. When you go from 4:10 to 4:56 gears you reduce the gear set strength about 15%, when you go to 4:88 you reduce the gear set strength about 20% and when you go to 5:29 gears you reduce the gear set strength 40-45%. In addition, stock Toyota axles were not designed for 35" and up tires period so it is good that most stock Toyota motors do not produce a lot of horse power because if they did we would have broken gear sets and axles all over the place. If you want to go big then at least purchase high strength / quality axles and gear sets but that are not cheap.
#34
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I beg to differ. They may not have been "designed" for 35" tires, but they are over-engineered in my opinion, and I've seen many a higher powered Yota running 35s and larger for many years personally. And I've also seen stock set ups break with stock tires. It's up to the driver and his power delivery, in my opinion.
#35
Sorry, to answer your question, yes, 4.56 would give you a bit longer legs( lower RPM for cruising) but with an auto, I believe you would want the 4.88s since they are pretty long-legged by nature. Auto trannys bring the cruise RPM down lower than a 5spd would.
If you had your auto equipped truck with 33s, and my 5spd truck with 33s, both with 4.88 gearing, your RPM would be lower than mine at highway speeds.
If you had your auto equipped truck with 33s, and my 5spd truck with 33s, both with 4.88 gearing, your RPM would be lower than mine at highway speeds.
#40