84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

1985 Resto-Major Mod.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 25, 2017 | 10:10 AM
  #1  
sdavis1244's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 30
Likes: 10
From: Los Angeles
1985 Resto-Major Mod.

Hi Guys,
First thread, long time observer.
I’m here because I’m planning on starting up a build/restoration but want to throw my ideas out into the world and see what happens. I’ve never done a project to this scale but am confident I can learn along the way and get help where I need it, starting mainly with the YotaTech community. So let me begin:

I have a 1985 SingleCab Toyota pickup 4x4.
-LCEngineering stage 3 22R
-Duel 45mm Weber sidedraft carbs.
-original transmission and transfer case.
-linked front end.

That is really the relevant information as I intend on modifying, or simply replacing many of the other major components. The truck has seen better days.. It has rust, on the frame and body. The front axle is slightly bent. The aftermarket bumper that was put on in 1987 needs to go, the cab cage that was put in 2004 needs to go. Unfortunately the thing has become a ‘Frankenstein’ of small projects that where never planned out together. the thing has had no real ‘goal’ to strive toward. So the goal:

I want to do a frame-off restoration/mod to the truck. I want to be able to push it offroad in speedy desert terrain while maintaining the solid front end but also have it be a solid overloading rig for long weekends out in the desert/mountains. Think of it as if it were a ‘2017, 1985 Toyota Pickup’. As a challenge to myself I want to try and keep the thing looking as original 1985 as possible with the following modifications. So why not do this to my new 2016 Taco? Because the old 80’s gen pickups are smaller, tougher, and more nimble than a new rig could ever be. I love these trucks and I love challenging projects. What I see this meaning:

-cleaned up, powder coated frame
-integrated front bumper, engine cage, cab cage, bed cage.
-fiberglass fenders, hood and bedsides to be easily removed to work on truck.
-redesign the front linked axle.
-replace axles with wider rock assault housings/shafts
-new wiring harness for truck, to include all accessories, new/old.
-decently weather proofed engine bay.
-new interior (custom designed dash)
-new brakes

the list of accessories is long but the idea is to try and include
-OHV lighting
-Diff Lock
-winch
-onboard air
-stereo
-duel battery set-up
-A/C

This is getting long so thats the basic summary. I’m slowly designing these systems in a NURBS modeling program on my computer, Im an architect in LA and am very familiar with Digital Fabrication and CAD modeling. So first steps in making this happen? I'm currently wondering what parts I should toss and replace vs restore vs upgrade.
OTHER THOUGHTS? QUESTIONS? AM I IN THE RIGHT PLACE?

(I intentionally left this out of the builds area because I haven't started doing anything and am mostly soliciting advice at this point)
Attached Thumbnails 1985 Resto-Major Mod.-img_2054.jpg   1985 Resto-Major Mod.-img_2053.jpg   1985 Resto-Major Mod.-img_1593.jpg  

Last edited by sdavis1244; Dec 25, 2017 at 11:51 AM.
Reply
Old Dec 25, 2017 | 12:17 PM
  #2  
L5wolvesf's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 18
From: Northern AZ
Welcome to Yotatech. Sounds like an interesting project.

The first thing that came to mind is 'dual 45 Webers is a lot of carburation for that motor' and on the street.
What size main venturis (chokes) does it run?
Reply
Old Dec 25, 2017 | 02:23 PM
  #3  
sdavis1244's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 30
Likes: 10
From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
Welcome to Yotatech. Sounds like an interesting project.

The first thing that came to mind is 'dual 45 Webers is a lot of carburation for that motor' and on the street.
What size main venturis (chokes) does it run?
Thanks L5wolvesf,I’m not sure to answer your question. You bring up a topic of consideration I forgot to mention. The truck is not street legal in this setup. I’d ultimately like to return it to being street legal so it gets used more. So I currently wait for either the law to change, or for me to buy a new ‘smoggable’ carburetor. Here is the current setup:http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-We...-p/1030051.htm
Reply
Old Dec 25, 2017 | 03:22 PM
  #4  
L5wolvesf's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 18
From: Northern AZ
Originally Posted by sdavis1244
Thanks L5wolvesf,I’m not sure to answer your question. You bring up a topic of consideration I forgot to mention. The truck is not street legal in this setup. I’d ultimately like to return it to being street legal so it gets used more. So I currently wait for either the law to change, or for me to buy a new ‘smoggable’ carburetor. Here is the current setup:http://www.lceperformance.com/22R-We...-p/1030051.htm
When you wrote the "LCEngineering stage 3 22R" I was imagining the Formula Atlantic engines I crewed on from the 80s or so. While those were a different motor the prep level seems similar. That motor may be suitable for an off road race truck - it is not for a street truck even if it were to get smogged. Part of that depends on the compression ratio it was built with. For off road you want torque and power but you also need it to be dependable. It may also be a but much for the original transmission and transfer case. Personally, given your stated use, I would sell that motor (I presume it runs) while it is still in the truck (so you can fire it up and comp/leak test it for buyer), and use the $$$ for a fresh but mildly modified 22r. Just my opinion based on what you've said so far.
Reply
Old Dec 25, 2017 | 06:12 PM
  #5  
sdavis1244's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 30
Likes: 10
From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by L5wolvesf
When you wrote the "LCEngineering stage 3 22R" I was imagining the Formula Atlantic engines I crewed on from the 80s or so. While those were a different motor the prep level seems similar. That motor may be suitable for an off road race truck - it is not for a street truck even if it were to get smogged. Part of that depends on the compression ratio it was built with. For off road you want torque and power but you also need it to be dependable. It may also be a but much for the original transmission and transfer case. Personally, given your stated use, I would sell that motor (I presume it runs) while it is still in the truck (so you can fire it up and comp/leak test it for buyer), and use the $$$ for a fresh but mildly modified 22r. Just my opinion based on what you've said so far.
It’s a thought that runs through my mind frequently. I have previously smogged it with a Weber 32/36 setup, but the long term maintainence of an engine like that has been something I’m worried about. It’s hard to leave the HP that thing produces though..In the larger picture of the build I want to do, I can see that motor swap to an original 22R happening at anytime so long as I can start it up to demo for a prospective buyer. Is that a safe assumption?
Reply
Old Dec 26, 2017 | 09:12 AM
  #6  
L5wolvesf's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,058
Likes: 18
From: Northern AZ
Originally Posted by sdavis1244
It’s a thought that runs through my mind frequently. I have previously smogged it with a Weber 32/36 setup, but the long term maintainence of an engine like that has been something I’m worried about. It’s hard to leave the HP that thing produces though..In the larger picture of the build I want to do, I can see that motor swap to an original 22R happening at anytime so long as I can start it up to demo for a prospective buyer. Is that a safe assumption?
The maintenance of a race engine is significant. The HP might be fun on the street but the tickets and maintenance and repairs would get old fast. If you can still smog an older truck there with a Weber 32/36 that is the route I would go with a mildly/appropriately modified engine. 22r long blocks are fairly easy to get a hold of around AZ, not sure about SoCal.

I would work around the engine leaving it so you can start it up to demo for a buyer. Are there any circle tracks left in SoCal? Your prospective buyers could be there.
Reply
Old Oct 10, 2018 | 09:45 PM
  #7  
sdavis1244's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 30
Likes: 10
From: Los Angeles
So I know it's been a while. I've been saving in the meantime and thinking on the process. My thoughts on how to afford this ($$$) and to not compromise the vision is to obviously build this into stages. So I see the first couple of stages going something like this:

1-TEAR DOWN
Tear down the truck, throw away what isn't going to stay, save what is still usable or rebuildable. The goal of all of this is to get the frame cleaned up. First to grind off previous projects, or bracketing I don't need anymore . Then I can purge it of rust, now I've assumed sand blasting is the way to go here but I'd love to hear any input. Once that's complete I'd like to coat it with 'Steel-It' so that the frame can now weather the time it may take to finish this project. During this time, I'd like to start cleaning out the cab so that it can be repaired of dents and rust as it will be the only part of the body I wish to keep. The parts to clean-up/rebuild can keep me busy in the downtimes of the larger parts of this project.

2-FOUNDATION
Here I'd like to fabricate the cage (Engine+Cab+Bed). Here's where I'd really love to get some real advice. I figure I'd mount the cab, engine and transmission back to the cage to help design the cab portion of the cage. Using measurements and photos I'd design the rest of the cage (engine and bed). For the suspension, I'd like to have the axles and shocks I plan on using with me when i design and fabricate. Have you found ways around having this stuff when you fabricate? Have any of you simulated axles or shocks with mock-ups? Option 1 is to at the end of this have a weather proofed frame with full body roll cage integrated into the cab, with the engine and transmission mounted but sitting on jack stands. Option 2 is all of option 1 but also to have it sitting on its own weight; sitting on its shocks, on the axles I intend on using with the proper tires+wheels. Obviously Option 2 would be best but it requires that i buy all of that before i can fabricate anything. Is it smart to try to achieve option 1 with the proper dimensions of the parts I intend to install later? In my mind I'd like have most of the fabrication done to be a foundation to buy additional parts to install later.

Now I know there is a lot more to this, I've summarized in a lot of ways but I'm trying to get a clearer vision of what I'm about to attempt at this point. While I continue to collect funds and find time I'd like to have a lot of this mapped out so when I'm ready to go I can start.
Let me know what has worked well for you! Anything Helps!
Reply
Old Jan 3, 2026 | 09:26 AM
  #8  
sdavis1244's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
5 Year Member
 
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 30
Likes: 10
From: Los Angeles
In case you hadn't already found, I revived this build thread here:
NEW THREAD
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbbowen
Vehicles - Trailers (Complete)
10
Jul 14, 2017 06:11 PM
gbalias
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
12
Jan 1, 2007 01:35 PM
rimpainter.com
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
127
Feb 11, 2005 05:47 AM
GoudyMan
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
6
Jan 19, 2004 06:55 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:38 PM.