Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Wrong driveshaft flange pattern

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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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Wrong driveshaft flange pattern

Alright guys, I am going about crazy here trying to find the right pattern to hook my driveshafts to my new third ARB pinion flanges.

I purchased the "triple drilled" flanges on the thirds that were supposed to be universal for all the patterns. My 1982 drive shafts only fit two of the holes (the spacing options on the triples are all too large).

As I have installed both 3rd members into the truck, I do not want to replace the pinion flanges, I would rather find the correct drive shaft flange pattern.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the flange hole differences, for the different years?

Thanks,
J
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 01:29 PM
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Who did you order the flange from? Marlin's states that his fits our early gen 8mm bolt pattern. Maybe you're just not hitting the pattern right? like out 90°? The one for our drivelines should be the smallest bolt holes. IIRC you can only line everything up at 0 or 180° and if you went 90 or 270° it wouldn't line up. I could be wrong on that though, I always mark my driveline and flange with a piece of chalk when I pull them so they go back on in the same orientation.

It appears that the Trail Gear one IS NOT drilled for the early drivelines so you may be S.O.L.

You may have to find some '84 and up drivelines or get the marlin flanges (or sombody else who has the right pattern).

Last edited by Bingle; Jun 9, 2015 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2015 | 09:45 PM
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It is a trail gear.. And I feel pretty stupid. Somehow I thought the 84' would have the same flange as the 82.. which is wrong. It says right on their website 84 + for 10mm bolts.

Does anyone know if the 84 flange will mate to a 82' u-joint?

Thanks.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 02:13 AM
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Red face

If you post up the dimensions of your flange.

It should be pretty easy for one of us to measure.

Seems like the easy way would be to just get the newer driveshafts with new joints.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
If you post up the dimensions of your flange.

It should be pretty easy for one of us to measure.

Seems like the easy way would be to just get the newer driveshafts with new joints.
If he did that wouldn't he also have to change out the output flanges on the t-case? I'd maybe see if you can return the flanges on your 3rd members or sell them and get the ones from either Marlin or I saw low range offroad also sells a set drilled for our pattern. Or swap out the outputs for the newer style and be rid of the "oddball" early driveline issues.

Sucks when you miss a small detail like that and then it caused huge headaches.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 08:32 AM
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My Problem with removing them is that then I have to get back to the same pre-load with the units already under the truck. Not to mention buy or build a spanner wrench that fits the pattern so I don't put that stress on the gears.

yes this is a real, real headache for two holes that are only 1/4" out from fitting..

I read something interesting last night, that apparently is fine. Take of the flange (driveshaft side) turn it 90* to where there are no holes and re-drill all 4 new holes in 10mm. people say it works fine.

I do think you guys are right though, I probably need to be done with this old crap pattern, because this will come into play when I upgrade my transfer case- yada-yada.

Thank you for the responses.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jcm151
My Problem with removing them is that then I have to get back to the same pre-load with the units already under the truck. Not to mention buy or build a spanner wrench that fits the pattern so I don't put that stress on the gears.
You shouldn't have to worry about the preload. As long as you aren't swapping out bearings and the collar on the new flange is the same thickness as the original then it should be just a matter of torquing it back down like it was - you can use the peen in the stake nut to line it back up. The pre-84 trucks use a solid steel spacer in lieu of a crush sleeve so getting it back to where is was is a breeze. Also, you don't need a spanner tool - there is no way that you are going to stress the gears by torquing on the pinion. Unless you are some sort of super human, there is no way that you are going to put more stress on the gears than what the engine and driveshaft do.

Originally Posted by jcm151
I read something interesting last night, that apparently is fine. Take of the flange (driveshaft side) turn it 90* to where there are no holes and re-drill all 4 new holes in 10mm. people say it works fine.
This can be easily done too. Just make sure that you have the drive shaft yolk firmly seated in the alignment hole on the pinion flange. If not, you are destined to have some serious vibrations in your driveshaft.

Also, your bolt pattern should be 64mmx56mm. I *THINK* that Marlin's tripled drilled flanges fit it, but I'm not certain. I've always wondered why they leave out the pre-84 pattern on these triple drilled flanges - they certainly have room on the flange to add one more pattern.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 12:02 PM
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I guess for anyone looking at this in the future here are the 2 I found that claim they WILL work with our pre-84 drivelines:

https://www.marlincrawler.com/axle/d...rential-flange

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/yotam...t-tdfp-lr.html

Hope this helps someone.
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Old Jun 10, 2015 | 05:14 PM
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yes .. u-joint is the same


.
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