Lons81

iTrader: (2)

During my build of my '81, I've wanting to do the brake upgrade like most have done with the front calipers, rotors and rear discs. I'm OK with that part of it, as there is a lot of info here on how to do it.

In researching the parts, I've found that the cost is really high from the part stores for getting a dual booster and 1" master cylinder. And most are remanufactured. So, I'm looking a getting a new (maybe chrome) booster and m/c that is used in street/hot rods. Only difference is drilling new holes in the firewall to meet the new bolt pattern and price.

Has anyone ventured into this arena looking for and installing parts from the aftermarket? Advice, pro/cons and experiences welcomed.

Bingle

Well, just a note from my experience. The dual booster is totally not needed IMO. I have the Landcruiser 1" MC, V6 rotors and calipers up front and SFA rotors and claipers out back + manual prop valve for the back. I thought about upgrading the booster to a V6 or dual diaphragm, but after the install of the parts I have I feel that there's no need. I'm stopping 35's really well and even felt pretty good about the braking power when I was hauling off 1500lbs of construction debris in the bed and willys jeep trailer. The 1500lbs is from weigh in/ weigh out at the dump.

Just my 2c on the matter.

Lons81

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your input. One of the big reasons for going to an aftermarket unit is the ease of parts. I like a Chevy master cylinder setup being a 1" bore, 4 port and rebuild kits are easy to find.

Just thinking in the future, as our gen trucks, everything is already discontinued or outrageously cost prohibitive

Pipes

Hey Bingle, I've just completed the setup that you have, which was a much bigger job than I thought it would be... Anyways, I am finding that even after bleeding and getting a firm pedal, when driving the pedal needs to be pumped before it firms up. I'm new to this game but from what I've read it's because the caliper is solidly mounted rather than floating, so when the axle moves laterally the disc pushes the pads open. Did you find the same issue with your swap, and what did you do about it?

Bingle

Dealing with the rear axle bearings and retainers is a real pain, right? That was far and away the hardest part of the swap for me.

If the rotor isn't 100% true to the plane of the calipers/brake pads, the wobble of the rotor will push out the pads a small amount. I have noticed that the rear pads seem to open up just a tiny amount and that a single light pump of the brakes firms things up a bit. I believe an "extra" residual valve behind/downstream from the prop valve in the back would fix this. I may very well be totally wrong on this, but I think that the prop valve may be lowering the "residual" pressure to the rears, thus allowing them to "open up" more. The issue with mine is so minor, and the brakes are so much better than stock, that I've decided it's a "non-issue" for me, at least for now.

Also note that if you got the V6 master rather than the Landcruiser one, you NEED a residual valve for the back.

The way you stated the problem, sounds like you may have something else going on.