I am currently running a knockoff Weber 32/36. It seem like I'm a bit underpowered. I was thinking of going to a Weber 38. Would like to get some opinions and see what other options might be out there.

 

I've run both and can tell you that simply switching from the 32/36 to 38/38 will have very little to zero impact on horsepower without having also upgraded internal components.
If your 32/36 is sealed tight and running well I'd focus on other areas of the engine. Or even gearing and tire size. Check to make sure that your valve lash is in spec and you don't have any vacuum leaks. Check your timing is good and advances properly.
Plugs are clean and gapped right. If all is straight and you still think there should be more then consider a cam and headers. Both of which a 32/36 can keep up with.
That's just my $0.02
Or save up for a Holley Sniper and go EFI.

 

You state that it's a "knockoff 32/36" so it's hard to say if it's performing like a real Weber would.
2x on pretty much everything Punjab said. Unless you've upgraded to bigger valves, a mid range cam, and headers, anything bigger than the 32/36 and you'll probably just be "over carbed". Though, I haven't had the 38 on my rig.
What I've run so far - stock -> 32/36 on Offy dual plane (great stock ish motor setup) ->45 DCOE's -> I'm running the Sniper 2300EFI now, and it's been pretty sweet so far (not done learning yet).

The 45's were sweet in the mid and upper RPM's with appropriate upgrade to other engine parts, but they were kinda gas hogs, especially crawling on the trail.

 

My pickup, 87 22R 2WD 5 spd MT, still has the carb it came from the factory with, and, while I probably should rebuild the carb, it still works as well as it did when I bought it in 88, with 33,000 miles on it. Now it only has a measly 375,000 miles on it But the carb is still going strong. I keep the air filter changed out, usually once a year. I keep the vacuum lines up too. There's so many of them...
A little trick a professional mechanic friend of mine from where I work taught me is to spray water over the carb once a year. Get the truck good and warm, and take off the air filter. Using a cheapo spray bottle, turned to make a fine mist, run the RPMs up a ways, and mist over the carb, so it draws the water in. It cleans the carb throat, as well as the intake manifold, intake valves, and the tops of the pistons.
It's worked well for me for over 30+ years...

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

hello Bingle, what are you running for timing with your Sniper? Just did a distributor "lock out" today and trying to get the timing right.

 

Nautique,
I'm running a "normal distributor". I'm not using the Sniper EFI ignition control, and I assume that's what you're asking about, so I don't really have any info for you on this.
I'm running a LCE distributor without vac advance (from when I had 45DCOE's) and am thinking about putting my old distributor back in to see if it's any better.
Is your engine still NA or are you doing a supercharger/blow through turbo? Boost is where I'd really see having the ability to tune the ignition be a benefit, but that's my opinion.
If I recall correct, I'm at about 12° at idle and max advance is about 34° at about 2500 rpm. Maybe that helps for initial baseline settings?

 

95 horsepower, by any measure, is always going to feel a bit underpowered.

 

ditch the carbs, go propane!