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Hey all you high altitude Weber guys with a 32/36

Old 05-19-2018, 01:15 PM
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Hey all you high altitude Weber guys with a 32/36

Hey guys
If you live where the altitude is over 5000 ft what jets are you using on your Weber 32/36? And does it run the best you could get it ? Would really like to get a starting point other then what is recommended online. I'm at 5555ft here in Utah. I will have a completely rebuilt engine when I start it up so I'd like to get the Weber jetted as close as I can for the 1st start up, Thanks all
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:31 AM
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Along with what jetting (primary and secondary) you are running it would also be very useful to know if your engine is stock or modified, and if modified what has been done.
Also useful would be:
What altitude you normally drive at.
Have you removed all or part of the emissions equipment.
What timing and fuel pump pressure you run.

There are actually a number of things that can effect how your carb is tuned, and how it runs, besides the items about butt these are a good starting point.
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Old 05-30-2018, 04:59 PM
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WOW, 169 people have viewed this thread and nobody has any comments? A bit surprised seeing there are so many high altitude owners out there.
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:07 PM
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Hum, I don't know.....

I still have a stock carburetor and live just a few hundred feet above sea level........

Also, I believe 169 views also includes non members just surfing the web as well.

Originally Posted by L5wolvesf View Post
Along with what jetting (primary and secondary) you are running it would also be very useful to know if your engine is stock or modified, and if modified what has been done.
Also useful would be:
What altitude you normally drive at.
Have you removed all or part of the emissions equipment.
What timing and fuel pump pressure you run.

There are actually a number of things that can effect how your carb is tuned, and how it runs, besides the items about butt these are a good starting point.
^^ This would be good to include for the people who actually know how to properly tune a Weber 32/36, unlike me.

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Old 05-30-2018, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by old87yota View Post
Hum, I don't know.....

I still have a stock carburetor and live just a few hundred feet above sea level........

Also, I believe 169 views also includes non members just surfing the web as well.



^^ This would be good to include for the people who actually know how to properly tune a Weber 32/36, unlike me.

I always thought Portland was higher then that, really? only a few hundred feet?
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:17 PM
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Just checked, you're 50 feet above sea level. I must be tilted.................
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Old 05-30-2018, 05:24 PM
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Well, I live in Portland-ish (metro area), but it is just easier to say Portland because I am only a few miles away and is more iconic. There are quite a few hills here, so the elevation can go up to a little above 1,500 feet.

Edit: I live right around 240 feet, give or take.


Last edited by old87yota; 05-30-2018 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Added real elevation information
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Old 05-30-2018, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by old87yota View Post
^^ This would be good to include for the people who actually know how to properly tune a Weber 32/36, unlike me.

Really the hardest thing about tuning a Weber, or most carbs, is getting beyond the idea that tuning carbs is difficult. The next thing is sticking to certain tuning/testing procedures like Ė changing only ONE jet, or component, at a time. Then keep written track of your results. Which way to go with jetting is spelled out on various carb sites, and by the results of your plug readings, MPG and seat of the pants feel for how the vehicle drove (a.k.a. Butt Dyno). A real dyno is just a lot faster, more accurate, repeatable and more expensive.

The 32/36 isnít really much different than a Rochester 2 barrel. I read a post on Marlin Crawler where a guy did some tuning on an AISIN and it isnít all that different either.

Unlike an electronic injection system that has a load of possible faulty parts (injectors, wiring, valves, sensors etc) or their connections.

Another thing is you canít be lazy about it, you have to repeat the procedures and test a step beyond what you think might be just right to verify the results. The biggest PITA is doing the plug check after each test run.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:05 AM
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All I've changed so far is the Primary idle jet from the stock 55, to a 50. I'm at 4000'. Only drove for around 16 miles so far. It seemed to help the idle some, but I may go back to the 55. It may be to lean.
I'm gonna give it some more miles then pull plugs and check. I was still burning oil off the tops of the pistons from the rebuild.
I can tell you one thing tho, if you are considering the desmog and Weber, don't hesitate, DO IT!
I can def tell the difference in power!
My truck runs worlds better now.
I spent all day yesterday trying to decipher the hacked up mess of taillight wiring the previous owner did when they converted the truck to a flatbed.
Picking up another Hopkins LED compatible converter after work today.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Force0321 View Post
I spent all day yesterday trying to decipher the hacked up mess of taillight wiring the previous owner did when they converted the truck to a flatbed.
Picking up another Hopkins LED compatible converter after work today.
If you need to know anything let me know, I have my harness laying in the basement and if you need any pics to help you just answer. It's all stock as it sits.
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Old 03-19-2019, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by NYHumpinUtah View Post
If you need to know anything let me know, I have my harness laying in the basement and if you need any pics to help you just answer. It's all stock as it sits.
Thanks Mike,
I'm gonna pick up the converter after work and start deciphering/marking the stock wires on both sides where they hacked them off. I've got a schematic i printed off the web, and some Toyota wiring color codes for the taillights,turn signals etc..
I drove this thing around for a month with no passenger rear blinker and faulty tail lights it appears!
From the mess they had ,it looked like they wired in a super cheap Hopkins converter but had it all dicked up. Not even close to the way it should be wired. Then they stapled the wires to the bottom of the wood flatbed deck!

Edit:
Got a new converter at my local O'Reilly's.
Cut all the old junk off down to the stock wiring harness on both sides.
Labeled all the wires.
Spiced in the new converter and connected to my LED taillights.Heat shrinked all connections and then electrical taped up the harness and connections.
Everything works perfect now! LED's still flash fast, haven't gotten around to changing the flasher relay yet.
Drove the Burro to work this morning. Runs like a new truck now!
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...ers/48895.html

Last edited by Force0321; 03-20-2019 at 04:44 AM.
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