I'm putting on a new weber and I have a question that I need some input on. The install directions say put either some grease or gasket sealer on the gaskets. I've never used any sealer on a carburetor gasket. What did you guys that have webers use? Thanks

 

Skip the weber adapter, and go with the LCE adapter.
http://www.lceperformance.com/Spiral...-p/1033028.htm

 

Yeah I actually found out today how crappy that adapter is that comes with it. I ordered the LCE spiral adapter today.

 

Mine is scheduled to arrive on Monday (20th)

 

I think the grease recommendation is just to swell the gaskets a bit so they seal better. I used some.

Yeah...Weber adapter is no good.

 

I would definitely recommend the LCE adaptor. It is quality stuff.

 

I use the supplied Weber adaptor as it's my only option for the 20R intake. If I had a 22R intake I would buy the overpriced but far superior LCE adaptor too. The Redline adaptor can be leak city and is a cheap piece of crap.

I'll be keeping my eye on the local Craigslist for a used aftermarket 20R intake so I can just bolt my carb right to the intake, just as any good Christian should.

 

I got the real weber...one with a white choke housing. I ran it with the gaskets and adapters in the kit. No leaks no problem. Don't understand why people have issues.

 

They have serious longevity issues due to the weak metal they use. They warp easily through slight over-tightening, normal heating/cooling of the engine, individual surface evenness or lack of in various intake manifolds, aren't always flat, etc...

The LCE adaptor is much, much higher quality at much, much higher cost. The Weber plate can be made to seal but can easily develop leaks, especially on under-carbed engines.

 

I finished the install and the truck is running great. The idle screw is set just over 1 1/2 turns out which says it's jetted properly. It also means that I have fixed all my vacuum leaks. I have to drive it a bit more and read the plugs, probably need to buy a new set actually. Ignition timing is set to about 15 BDTC and the vacuum advance is hooked to manifold vacuum. No pinging on 87 octane, I'm considering advancing it a degree or two more to try for a little more power. Truck is running fantastic, I'm looking for about 17-19 MPG this tank. Last tank with vacuum advance hooked to ported vacuum and timing set at 12 BDTC I got 15 MPG and idled it a lot tinkering. My odometer/speedometer are about 7.5% under so I corrected by multiplying the trip reading by 1.075 to correct the mileage. To compare, when I first got the truck, the mix was so rich to run and the timing so retarded, that after a longish drive the exhaust manifold was cherry red. It got maybe 8mpg and the power was so poor that it would struggle on hills in 4th at 55 MPH. 5th was basically a downhill only gear.

Truck makes great torque from 1500-4000 RPM and when I put my foot down it moves. Stock exhaust manifold into 2 1/4" pipe with a glasspack, no cat. LOUD when you crack that throttle. I can use 5th gear now

 

Your initial advance seems high. If it runs good it's just fine, but most 'R' builders suggest 9-12 degrees with 30-34 total.

But hey, if it runs fine as it is leave it be. Isn't it incredible what small mods can do to bring extra pep into R's? They certainly need all the help they can get.

 

motor has about 5000mi on a rebuild, and I've fixed all the stuff the install shop did wrong (There were vacuum leaks everywhere!), anyway, the motor is nice and tight and I expect to not have to replace it in my lifetime.

 

I think freeing up the exhaust made the biggest difference of all the tweaks, but I'm sure the weber didn't hurt.

Also my theory on the timing is that I'm running more advance because of the weber. I did a lot of reading and the weber likes more advance than the stock carb. Also, no efi, no knock sensor...

 

Is it a 32/36? If so, the carb won't show any increase in power over a stock 22R carb as the 32/36 is smaller as far as CFM. Less air in than a stock carb. It's just an equitable, simple replacement to the more complex factory carb.

The 20R carb is a dog and a 32/36 on a 20R is a performance upgrade.

The 38/38 is certainly a performance upgrade for any 'R' beside an EFI. You'll find that on a .060 over 20R or std bore 22R with a cam of decent size the 32/36 won't supply even close to enough air, especially at idle when the poor thing is choking on one 32mm venturi. If you're looking at any future mods keep your eyes peeled for a bigger carb. If your staying very mild the 32/36 will likely be more economical.

 

I've never driven this truck with a factory carb, when I bought it the 32/36 was already installed. (badly I might add)

When I get the lift done for the 35" tires I'll look into a 38/38. I'm happy with how the truck runs right now. Without a thorley header, a 38/38 would be too much imho.

I have a long list of stuff I want to do to this motor. A header is next, then in a few years I'll do a stroker crank and a stage 2 cam from LCE and that's when I'll get a 38/38

As far as driveability, as long as you put your foot down enough to open that second barrel, the power is good, then you have nice cruise economy because you're on the 32. Smaller barrel = faster velocity through the barrel for a given cfm = better fuel atomization = better power and economy. The spiral adapter plate from LCE gives the airflow a swirl pattern, further helping fuel atomization. The better your fuel atomization, the less unburnt fuel you're dumping out the tailpipe. Remember the fuel droplets don't actually burn very well, only the outside of the droplet in contact with the oxygen does. Ideally I think you'd want the fuel to evaporate into the airflow as that would be the best possible mix for complete combustion. I'm pondering some sort of a fuel line heater as an experiment to see if prewarming the fuel makes any difference in how the engine runs.

I have to focus on the suspension before I can do much else to the motor. Need new leaf shackles in the rear. Need tires too. It all takes teh moneh

 

2 1/4" Racing, California Illegal Heddman Hedder available in excellent condition ;-)

 

It was banned in the 30's for 90MPG
P.S. it has to occur AFTER the fuel pump.

 

What's the part number so I can look it up?

EDIT

Never mind. The inter webs tell me to stay away from heddman. I really want a thorley tri-y. The stock manifold is actually a tri-y. When I did the cat delete and opened up the flow the bottom end showed up and made me very happy.