Hi,

What gauge sheet metal and which parts of the cab is everyone using to repair their cabs?

Also is anyone using any particular type of ferrous metal? or one in particular?

I want to have the sheets handy to do templates before I start cutting rust out of my own ute.

 

I have used 22 gau to rebuild the bottom foot of my cab (floors, tranny tunner, rockers etc), you can see it in my build thread. I decided to use this thin metal because that is what I was advised by some friends, but other people around here like kawazx6 told me it would be better with 18 gau (that's what he used) and I'm afraid he was right. The original toyota sheet metal is 22 gau or even 24, but the techniques they used made it stronger (with a lot of bends and texture). Flat 22 gau is very soft but as soon as you start bending and texturing the metal it becomes stronger. I'm really happy with my floor but the cab would be stiffer with 18 gau. I AT LEAST advise 20 gau or better with 18 gauge if you need to replace ''structural'' parts but it will be slightly heavier. But if you want to patch a rust hole I think 22 gau would be fine but it is really hard to weld without making pin holes, do you have experience welding very thin metal? If not check a couple of videos on youtube and practice.

As for the type of metal, around here we can get ''satin'' metal which is much more resistant to rust but slighly more expensive (not as much as stainless).

 

as a bodyman, who has done exactly what you plan on doing last year. I reccommend 18 gauge.

remember when you make your patches, no sharp corners (they will pucker when welded) do not butt weld, then you'll blow through all the time, flange it or sleeve it and you'll be fine. When welding it, you can't use a solid, long weld. You have to do spot welds one at a time to ensure you don't warp it beyond repair. PRACTICE THIS FIRST!!! Always put a spot weld in your corners or they will pucker (even if well rounded) After each spot weld make sure it has cooled off so you can touch it with bare hands before you do your next weld.

 

Thanks guys for some really insightful help! I will be heading down to the metal shop to find some 18 gauge. will do some practice first and then get stuck into the corrosion plaguing my old yota.

 

I used 14ga hot rolled sheet steel for my floors, tranny tunnel, rocker backing and body mounts. It is plenty strong enough without rolling beads given the geometry of my floor pan. Hot rolled steel is typically P&O'ed (pickled and oiled) which is helpful in reducing surface rust while you're working on a project, but turns into a real pain when you get to surface conditioning prior to paint and bodywork - I had to completely sandblast my cab so it wasn't a concern for me. If you can afford it, cold rolled is the way to go. For body panels and patchwork I used 22ga cold rolled steel. Toyota panels seem to be slightly thinner than that, but not quite as thin as 24ga.

Nothingbetter is spot on about welding techniques too. If you haven't welded thin metal before then PRACTICE FIRST. Thin metal is not very forgiving - you don't have the luxury of grinding it down and starting over because chances are you probably burned through it or warped the metal. I actually warped the 14ga steel (which I don't consider thin) in my driverside floorpan by welding too much too quickly and left too much heat in the floorpan causing shrinkage - and I thought that I was going plenty slow enough... Also, get yourself a welding spoon. It's a copper plate on a wooden handle used to back your welds and dissipate heat from the weld. It's great for thin metal and helps prevent you from blowing through the metal as well. And GAS GAS GAS!! Flux core is great if you are in a pitch, but the real solution is a solid mig wire with argon or better yet, a tig welder. Mmmm, I really miss my tig welder.....

Scope out my build thread in my signature below. I have a lot of detailed photos of my floor replacement and metal fab. And don't be afraid to ask questions. Good luck!