Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

RUF questions

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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 09:20 AM
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From: fort smith, arkansas
RUF questions

hey guys. been doing all the info gathering, thread reading, and forum browsing I can on doing e RUF on my 1980. I have a few question I want to verify before I decide on which parts to buy. for a model as early as mine, if im using my factory packs (plus a few from my fronts) should I only need to buy some 5.5" shackles and bolt them in? do I NEED a front hanger drop added? the axle will be about 2" forward form what I see, so does the slip yoke in the front shaft still reach? I know its a lot of into to cover in one response, thanks for anything in advance. im putting 63's in the back so im trying to level it out to the same ride height. I also have most of what I need to add power steering, ill use an IFS box for high steer, I don't need to move the box anywhere other than the factory location right, seems like everyone who moved theirs was because they moved their axle way forward.
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 04:36 PM
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I would suggest buying a second set of first or second gen rears. Mixing two sets of rears, making six leaf packs works well.
Using a drop hanger is the better way to go.
You will need a custom front shaft with long slip.
There is no factory location for an IFS box on a 1980. Generally you want to push the box forward as much as possible. I like to use a flat pitman arm with RUF. Do the springs first, then the steering.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...front-faq.html
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 05:54 PM
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From: fort smith, arkansas
Originally Posted by toyoda addict
I would suggest buying a second set of first or second gen rears. Mixing two sets of rears, making six leaf packs works well.
Using a drop hanger is the better way to go.
You will need a custom front shaft with long slip.
There is no factory location for an IFS box on a 1980. Generally you want to push the box forward as much as possible. I like to use a flat pitman arm with RUF. Do the springs first, then the steering.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...front-faq.html

thanks. Maybe I read the details wrong but I was under the impression the Sky steering box brace I purchased mounted the IFS box roughly where the factory box would be on mine, if it had power steering. I’ll tackle the suspension first as you suggested.
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Old Nov 26, 2019 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by keycw
thanks. Maybe I read the details wrong but I was under the impression the Sky steering box brace I purchased mounted the IFS box roughly where the factory box would be on mine, if it had power steering. I’ll tackle the suspension first as you suggested.
My wording probably wasn't the best. The IFS box will be be mounted "roughly" where your push pull box is. But yes, most people end up moving it as far forward as possible, there isn't a whole lot of room there. What really matters, is that it is up and forward enough to clear the spring and tie rod at full compression. Remember, on compression, the axle/tie rod will move up and forward toward the box, pitman arm and drag link. It is not that uncommon to see a poorly installed high steer with the tie rod banging on the drag link under compression.
You can check your work by breaking the spring packs down to just the main leaf. This will allow you to set the truck at full compression. Make sure everything clears and setup bump stops. Hopefully this makes sense and you can find some of it useful.
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Old Nov 27, 2019 | 04:07 AM
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From: fort smith, arkansas
Originally Posted by toyoda addict
My wording probably wasn't the best. The IFS box will be be mounted "roughly" where your push pull box is. But yes, most people end up moving it as far forward as possible, there isn't a whole lot of room there. What really matters, is that it is up and forward enough to clear the spring and tie rod at full compression. Remember, on compression, the axle/tie rod will move up and forward toward the box, pitman arm and drag link. It is not that uncommon to see a poorly installed high steer with the tie rod banging on the drag link under compression.
You can check your work by breaking the spring packs down to just the main leaf. This will allow you to set the truck at full compression. Make sure everything clears and setup bump stops. Hopefully this makes sense and you can find some of it useful.
thank you. I did a sas on an 88 years ago but I used TG springs so I really didn't have to modify anything. do you suggest keeping the factory shackles through frame or moving them back and under the frame? it seems like my pinion angle would be better if I did the front drop and kept the through frame shackles. im using the rear springs from my 80 so they are the shorter eye to eye version.
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Old Nov 27, 2019 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by keycw
thank you. I did a sas on an 88 years ago but I used TG springs so I really didn't have to modify anything. do you suggest keeping the factory shackles through frame or moving them back and under the frame? it seems like my pinion angle would be better if I did the front drop and kept the through frame shackles. im using the rear springs from my 80 so they are the shorter eye to eye version.
Yes, keep the shackles mounted as they are now, through the frame and use a front drop hanger. If anything, you may want to move the front hanger forward a small bit, for shackle angle.

Allpro's low profile hanger with 4-4.5'' shackles is a cool option, if you're wanting to keep the truck extra low https://allprooffroad.com/1979-1995-...ng-hanger.html
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