Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

LC spiral adapter install questions

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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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LC spiral adapter install questions

I just got a weber, and the LCE pro spiral adapter.
So I was just getting ready to put it on and I noticed that The directions did not say any thing about the stock studs on the manifold. I guess I am going to have to remove them. Has any one removed these studs before. Has anyone installed this adapter before?
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 09:27 PM
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I just barely installed the spiral adaptor on my rebuild last night. The studs come out of the intake manifold. The flat head allens screw into the manifold closest to the head and the two shorter bolts screw in from the bottom and up into the adaptor base plate. Make sure you use some thread locker on all the nuts and bolts so that they won't back out and cause leaks.
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Old Dec 21, 2012 | 09:29 PM
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oh and to remove those studs just thread two nuts onto the studs and tighten them against each other. Unscrew the studs using a wrench on the bottom nut. They should come out rather easy since they are in aluminum
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 08:03 AM
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Thanks! Will try that today!

I think I may be missing some bolts out of the kit.
I have the flat allens, the smaller allens, the 2 bolts, and the studs.

From the directions I should have 4 bolts two for the bottom and two for the risers on the T- linkage.

Right? I think I may use the old carb bolts for the linkage, stuff.
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Old Dec 22, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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So I got them off and adapter on, the 2nut deal was the way to go!



Bolt kit, I was missing some for the linkage risers, did not come in the kit.


this is the installed product
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 03:42 AM
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I think you're only missing one bolt for the linkage. Or at least mine had one me longer bolt but I haven't installed the throttle linkage yet. We I get home I can measure it for you and let you know what length you will need. You could also call LCE and they'll ship you out the missing bolts
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 06:24 AM
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Curious for some feedback on how well these work down the road. I know JustDSM used one but he did a 2RZ or 3RZ swap shortly after installing his..
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 07:08 AM
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I just reused on the of the carb bolts, and I had to go buy another one longer than the carb bolt.

Finished


kawazx636 did your come with a new electric choke, cable and plug?
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Old Dec 23, 2012 | 02:53 PM
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Just figure out which terminal of the 3 in the trucks electric choke wiring plug has 12 volts when the ignition is on. 2 of them do, if I remember correctly, so you can use the other 12 volt switched terminal to hook up the anti-diesel switch, if you want. A regular male blade connector fits into the trucks wiring plug, and a female blade connector fits on the choke on the carb. Wire it all together and seal the connections, you're good to go.

Edit: also, Dropzone, what sort of feedback are you looking for on the adapter? I ran one for close to 2 years on my old 83. The main difference I found between it and the adapter that came with the Weber was that the LCE adapter would actually keep a seal and no more vacuum leaks. I'm not entirely sure what effect it had on my performance, though.

Last edited by JonnyBoy; Dec 23, 2012 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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The adapter doesn't come with any throttle or choke cables. I actually converted to a manual choke on mine - less crap to break and worry about. Here are some pics of my weber on a LCE spiral adapter:









I also mounted my fuel pressure regulator to the manifold as well. Beats the hell out of mounting it to the fender wall and looks much cleaner.
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 04:50 PM
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Hey fellas I just got my adapter in as well mine is leaking at the.base also but I was woundering did Yall use any gasket sealer or rtv on the new gaskets
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:08 PM
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By base do you mean between the spiral adapter and the intake manifold? If so, did you check to make sure that your manifold was true and flat? Did you torque everything down properly?
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:12 PM
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It's leaking from the original weber adapter to the manifold and I haven't put the spiral adapter on yet I'm doing it this weekend and I was woundering if Yall used a sealer or something during assembly and the instruction didn't have torque values do you have that
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Old Mar 26, 2013 | 05:54 PM
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Just use the LCE gaskets. They are much better gaskets than the ones that come with the weber. As for torque specs, I used the FSM torque specs for the carb. Also used a little blue loctite on all the bolts and studs.
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:45 AM
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When finding out where the 12volt wire is did you just hook a volt meter to it???


Originally Posted by JonnyBoy
Just figure out which terminal of the 3 in the trucks electric choke wiring plug has 12 volts when the ignition is on. 2 of them do, if I remember correctly, so you can use the other 12 volt switched terminal to hook up the anti-diesel switch, if you want. A regular male blade connector fits into the trucks wiring plug, and a female blade connector fits on the choke on the carb. Wire it all together and seal the connections, you're good to go.

Edit: also, Dropzone, what sort of feedback are you looking for on the adapter? I ran one for close to 2 years on my old 83. The main difference I found between it and the adapter that came with the Weber was that the LCE adapter would actually keep a seal and no more vacuum leaks. I'm not entirely sure what effect it had on my performance, though.
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Old Apr 11, 2019 | 08:42 AM
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2 hex washers threaded from bottom without nut on top?

Originally Posted by kawazx636
I just barely installed the spiral adaptor on my rebuild last night. The studs come out of the intake manifold. The flat head allens screw into the manifold closest to the head and the two shorter bolts screw in from the bottom and up into the adaptor base plate. Make sure you use some thread locker on all the nuts and bolts so that they won't back out and cause leaks.
Curious to know if those 2 hex bolts threaded from bottom dont work loose even with blue loctite? Why aren't they threaded from top?
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