Frame Issues
#1
Frame Issues
I've got pretty bad rot on the curve of the frame right before it goes over the rear axle. Being almost completely unexperienced in frame work, what is the best way to repair this? I don't have the means to do a frame swap or something, but I can weld. Suggestions and pictures would be greatly appreciated. I'm afraid to go offroad with the current condition. Which SUCKS.
#2
If your going off-road only you can build a new frame rail or back-half the truck. Back-half'ing is routinely done on musclecars for this and to handle the abuse.
Last edited by skypilot; Dec 16, 2011 at 10:35 AM.
#4
You're screwed. Get a MIG welder and make boxes around the bad section to help support it. Get POR15 (expensive) and treat he rusted metal as best you can before welding. It will add a lot of weight to do it this way but at least you can drive it.
At some point you will run out of solid metal to attach to, and then its game over.
At some point you will run out of solid metal to attach to, and then its game over.
#6
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
If you can weld you can fix it
just take your time pictures of yours would be good. no need to use more than 1/8"
if at all possible take the bed off it will make it easier.
if you have any questions if feel free to pm I have fixed quite a few of these
just take your time pictures of yours would be good. no need to use more than 1/8"
if at all possible take the bed off it will make it easier.
if you have any questions if feel free to pm I have fixed quite a few of these
#7
Here is a good build by fierohink.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/
Doing a frame swap isnt as bad as you may think. If you can pull a motor you can swap a frame. Look in my 88 rebuild on post #88. Step by step instructions.
These are about your only 2 options or really pay out the nose to get someone to fix it for you. I ran into this myself and alot of welders wont touch your frame as it is a liability risk. If it breaks they could be liable.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-228184/
Doing a frame swap isnt as bad as you may think. If you can pull a motor you can swap a frame. Look in my 88 rebuild on post #88. Step by step instructions.
These are about your only 2 options or really pay out the nose to get someone to fix it for you. I ran into this myself and alot of welders wont touch your frame as it is a liability risk. If it breaks they could be liable.
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#8
I'll probably end up doing a frame swap this spring when I build my metal flatbed. But I just need something sturdy to get me through this winter (at least, because here in WI Yotas of this vintage are few and far between, let alone a rust-free donor.)
#9
I'm shooting in the dark by asking this... but is it the passenger side by the fuel tank? I'm getting the feeling that due to the proximity of the fuel tank from the frame, the trucks gathered debris and mud in between the tank and the frame causing the rust. Mine rotted out there as well, but luckily I caught it before it completely rotted away. My solution was to remove the bed and fuel tank, and completely box in the rotted section. Of course you want to clean away all the rust you can before plating the bad sections over... but it is (in my opinion) a lot easier then replacing the frame. I have paid more attention to making sure all the mud and crap are cleaned out between my tank and frame every time I get home from wheeling it.
#12
Muratic Acid (spelling?) works really good to clean up rust. Make sure to dilute it with water and apply it (using a spray bottle) in a well ventilated area. Try not to get it on anything aluminum. It will eat it up. You can buy the acid by the gallon at farm supply and hardware stores... and its pretty cheap (about $10 a gallon). Once you spray the diluted acid on the rust areas, let it sit and do its magic for about 15 minutes and rinse it off (using garden hose) thoroughly. You can do it again if your not satisfied.
You can also use grinders or wire wheels to remove the rust.
You can also use grinders or wire wheels to remove the rust.
#14
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Any welder who is scared your truck is going to break after you paid a fair amount of money is in the wrong trade!!
Then to fix it the correct way is most often beyond the means or budget unless you do it your self
Depending how bad it is a frame splice would be cheaper labor wise if in your area you have good used frames to be had.
Unlike in the great eastern salt belt.
Then to fix it the correct way is most often beyond the means or budget unless you do it your self
Depending how bad it is a frame splice would be cheaper labor wise if in your area you have good used frames to be had.
Unlike in the great eastern salt belt.

#15
It's on both sides of the frame, right where it curves to go over the rear axle. I'll try to post some pictures of it tomorrow... and to 83Toyota88 I'll take some close-ups of the flatbed for you too.
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