Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

floor rust cab bolts

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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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From: baton rouge,louisiana
floor rust cab bolts

peOk I've done a lot of reading on here and I have been holding off on this part of my restore but my floor pans need attention now before they get out of hand. I havnt ever done much welding and fabbing but Im gonna have to learn fast. But I looked at it this eavning and I really don't have any bug holes there is one small small hole on drivers side where it starts to go up the wheel well everything else is rusted but nit through, the paint is peeling all over with rust underneath it. I really don't know if I should patch or what this is not my strong point. But my cab mounts underneath the truck are all solid and there but inside the bolts that bolt the cab down are destroyed can I get theses somewhere or what. I pulled the carpet way back and looked and.it really just made me upset all the money I've put into this thing and.now this I just need some confidence and.try to repair this
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:46 PM
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[IMG][/IMG]

Here is a pic of the cab mount bolts I guess I'm not really sure
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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If you want some confidence and tips, read my build tread. I just completely replaced my floor pan. I had the same rusted out areas as you. If you want to know the culprit, pop off the fenders. The vents in the cowl drain down to the front corners of the rocker panels. Scope it out, I bet you'll find more rust down there where the fenders bolt to the cab immediately behing the wheel wells (2 bolts side by side).
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 01:16 AM
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Do you know anything about the bolts inside that bolt the cab down
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 04:53 AM
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I would chip away at the rusted areas first to see how solid it is, if there is no rust thru treat the area with POR inside and underneath and call it good. If your not comfortable welding or don't have the equipment you can patch small areas with 3M metal adhesive and metal plates . Adhesives have come a long way and many claim they are stronger than welds.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:49 AM
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You can replace those bolts with 1/2" grade 8 bolts. I'd go with 81Toyo's recommendation and poke around to see how extensive the rust is. If it is solid enough, I would clean it up, treat it with metal ready and slap some POR-15 on it. POR-15 is a miracle product that I adamantly stand behind. I used it to paint my chassis and the stuff is tough as nails! If you are looking for a more attractive solution and you are good with metal work then you may being looking at cutting and patching it.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 07:16 AM
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Yeah I can patch but I don't think I can do what you did kawaz I mean I have to give it to you man your great at that but I hope what I have is just as good as por15 I have the chassis saver stuff I think that's from Eastwood it's like the same stuff just a tad bit cheaper but I'm gonna order me some.carpet get everything pulled out and see how bad it is and thanks for the bolt identification
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 07:29 AM
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Never used Chassis Saver so I'm not too sure how good it is, but I would still recommend going out and getting POR-15. No more than what you have to do, you could easily get away with buying a pint for $30. The coverage is absolutely amazing! I put 3 coats of POR-15 on my frame, axles, drive shafts, bell housing and gas tank and didn't even use two full quarts. In fact, I only used about a pint per coat on the chassis.

Also, get some big ass grade 8 fender washers for those bolts.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 07:34 AM
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Ok so is that a bolt that goes in the cab and the nut and washer go inside the cab sorry I'm asking all this but I'm at work and can't look and its got me all up tight I want it fixed and mine is rusted so bad I can't really tell. Last night when I got off work I pulled the carpet back pretty far and saw my disaster
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:22 AM
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Don't worry about the questions, I enjoy helping people out. There's no need to figure everything out on your own when somebody else already has.

They are bolted through the cab floor, through the bushing between the cab and the body mount on the frame, through the frame, through the another bushing and then nutted up. Here's the proper sequence from top to bottom:

1-Bolt head
2-Fender washer
3-Cab floor
4-Top bushing
5-Body mount on frame
6-Bottom bushing
7-Washer
8-Nut

They should look something like this (you can see the bolt in the front corners on the drive and passenger sides)

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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:38 AM
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Yes that is nice man thanks for the help did you get new bushings I'm sure you did I think marlin sells them I need to take a look and try to find me some carpet
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:39 AM
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From your photo it looks like it might not be bad at all. My 83 had a small salad plate sized hole on the drivers side...Never even knew it until I went to sell it and pulled up the carpet to make sure!
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 08:46 AM
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I got the energy bushing kit for the whole truck. I think it was around $100, but it had every bushing needed on these trucks
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 09:03 AM
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Hopefull its not to bad I need to start me a build thread now that I know how to post pics
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by catfish21
I need to take a look and try to find me some carpet
I ordered my carpet kit from www.stockinteriors.com and I was very satisfied with it. They can even match you a headliner kit if you want.
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 04:23 PM
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Hey kawaz do you remember the length of the cab bolts so I can go ahead and.try to get the stuff I need
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Old Dec 5, 2013 | 06:39 PM
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Not 100% sure, but I can check the next time I'm working on my truck. I wouldn't count on your's being the same length though. Our bushing thicknesses could be different so I would recommend getting it all mocked up and taking a measurement to make sure you get the right length.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 04:29 AM
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Ten four buddy thanks
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