Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

dropzone's notebook of ideas, links, mods, misc BS

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Old 08-03-2015, 04:46 PM
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79-83 Truck Steering Shaft U joint

1st Gen truck steering shaft u joint rebuild and part numbers
Originally Posted by moroza
Toyota PN is 04371-10011, Beck Arnley 1020288 (but stamped GMB...). Also used in the driveshaft of 68-79 Corollas. RockAuto has them but they're in the Drivetrain section along with the other U-joints, not the Steering section.
Originally Posted by kawazx636
Moroza got it!

I just checked RockAuto and I'm not seeing them listed in the drivetrain section anymore, but here is the description link:

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...php?pk=2586870

Google the part number with Beck Arnley, GMB or Toyota and I'm sure you'll stumble across somebody that has them in stock. You'll need two of them for the portion of the steering shaft that runs through the engine compartment. There is a third one up inside of the steering column that is different (I believe it is only in the tilt columns). I wasn't able to find that one, but it doesn't receive as much wear as the other two.

Here are some shots of mine:






Old 08-22-2015, 06:09 PM
  #122  
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Good Video on techniques to find vacuum leaks
[YOUTUBE]
[/YOUTUBE]
Old 09-18-2015, 11:23 PM
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Poor Man's bump stops

From 4rnr's build thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f88/...5/index14.html

Originally Posted by 4rnr
About $25 in menards parts.

The piston is a 1" bolt with the hex filed down so it will slide inside the body, which is a piece of pipe. Pipe cap on top, reducer on the bottom, brass bushing threaded into the reducer. Fill the pipe with whatever you want... I tried a few different bouncy balls, and some foam golf balls. The golf balls could not rebound fast enough. The other bouncy balls were getting destroyed in the can. The ones that work are the ones I found at Target, in the party section. On the end of the bolt I fiddled with a threaded bumpstop, but it took soooo long the first time and I have found that a chair leg cap works just fine. Then simply weld the pipe to the frame (er wherever) and assemble.... I made a can for the fronts, but again, it was more work and in the back I made tabs and simply buzzed them to the frame...











Ive thought about making a build thread with part numbers.....but I guess its just a little to hillbilly. But they do work!

After using them for a year, I have broken 2 bounce balls in the back (easy to replace, the caps are only hand tightened). And the fronts either have a broken ball or are kinda compressed up in the can....So I simply added another bounce ball to those...meh. I only noticed the broken/compressed balls when I reached down and found slack in the piston...I didnt feel any difference in ride.
Old 11-01-2015, 12:23 AM
  #124  
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Spring Bushings

from this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...shings-287760/
Originally Posted by moroza
Yes, that's (almost) correct - long ones in the front.

Each front spring takes 2x 90385-18007 (shackle upper) and 4x 90385-18046 (everywhere else). Each rear spring takes 2x 90385-18001 (spring pin, t.i front joint) and 4x 90385-18046 (shackle upper and lower).

The 18007 is of course longer, but I can't see any difference between the 18001 and 18046.

The Duralast SK6570 kit that Autozone sells for $5.59 contains four bushings that say 90385-18046 and "MADE IN JAPAN" on them. Win! I got five of those kits to do all but the front upper shackle. Haven't finished yet.
Old 04-19-2016, 07:48 PM
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Space-junk came up with a genius idea to paint wheels with the tire still mounted
Way easier than masking tape
Old 09-29-2016, 04:16 PM
  #126  
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Dome Light Tweek

Old dome light switch gave up the ghost, tried soldering it but that lasted about a week. Dug into the parts stash and decided to make a small upgrade in brightNess
Name:  IMG_20160929_160259_zpsumgs3d1e.jpg
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I may use the Duplicolor interior paint I have to make the housing color match but this will do for now.
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