THE 1 MILLIONTH SAS (on my 92 runner)
#261
I'm not saying flux is better than gas. If you already have the gas setup, I say keep it. Im just saying I have had great results with this little welder that most people would not use on suspension (and everything else) on a rock crawler...
#263
I understand. For what ever reason flux core gets better penetration I guess, the reference chart on my welder says with gas I can weld up to 1/8, with flux core up to 3/16. That was the only reason I was thinking of trying it.
#264
Ive heard that as well. I think its hotter.
#265
About $25 in menards parts.
The piston is a 1" bolt with the hex filed down so it will slide inside the body, which is a piece of pipe. Pipe cap on top, reducer on the bottom, brass bushing threaded into the reducer. Fill the pipe with whatever you want... I tried a few different bouncy balls, and some foam golf balls. The golf balls could not rebound fast enough. The other bouncy balls were getting destroyed in the can. The ones that work are the ones I found at Target, in the party section.
On the end of the bolt I fiddled with a threaded bumpstop, but it took soooo long the first time and I have found that a chair leg cap works just fine. Then simply weld the pipe to the frame (er wherever) and assemble.... I made a can for the fronts, but again, it was more work and in the back I made tabs and simply buzzed them to the frame...





Ive thought about making a build thread with part numbers.....but I guess its just a little to hillbilly.
But they do work!
After using them for a year, I have broken 2 bounce balls in the back (easy to replace, the caps are only hand tightened). And the fronts either have a broken ball or are kinda compressed up in the can....So I simply added another bounce ball to those...meh. I only noticed the broken/compressed balls when I reached down and found slack in the piston...I didnt feel any difference in ride.
The piston is a 1" bolt with the hex filed down so it will slide inside the body, which is a piece of pipe. Pipe cap on top, reducer on the bottom, brass bushing threaded into the reducer. Fill the pipe with whatever you want... I tried a few different bouncy balls, and some foam golf balls. The golf balls could not rebound fast enough. The other bouncy balls were getting destroyed in the can. The ones that work are the ones I found at Target, in the party section.
On the end of the bolt I fiddled with a threaded bumpstop, but it took soooo long the first time and I have found that a chair leg cap works just fine. Then simply weld the pipe to the frame (er wherever) and assemble.... I made a can for the fronts, but again, it was more work and in the back I made tabs and simply buzzed them to the frame...




Ive thought about making a build thread with part numbers.....but I guess its just a little to hillbilly.
But they do work!After using them for a year, I have broken 2 bounce balls in the back (easy to replace, the caps are only hand tightened). And the fronts either have a broken ball or are kinda compressed up in the can....So I simply added another bounce ball to those...meh. I only noticed the broken/compressed balls when I reached down and found slack in the piston...I didnt feel any difference in ride.
Last edited by 4rnr; Jul 19, 2013 at 09:56 AM.
#266
That's a pretty cool idea. I may steal that idea from ya when I build do my SAS on my 4runner. Then again, mine will prolly see some mud in its life, not sure how well that will work once it gets packed full of mud.
But I do like the idea.
But I do like the idea.
#267
But they should be ok. The piston is in a tight tolerance with the bushing... Worst case the bushing gets whooped out.... couple minutes and a few bucks from menards and your good to go.
#272
Thanks
Since someone bumped this ol thing up, I feel I should update...
We took the 4runner out to Colorado (Ouray area) and Moab this year and hit a lot of trails I have wanted to hit for a looong time! I cant wait to go back!

Here is a link to some of the pics
http://s4.photobucket.com/user/4rnr/...%20Moab%202014
The original marlin springs were getting tired and were starting to bend after 8 years of hard use under a >5000lb truck, plus I broke a leaf in black hills a couple years back. So I threw in another set of 4"/5" marlin springs. It only lifted me one or two inches, which I was pleasantly surprised about.
The funky bump stops I built were chewing up bounce balls too fast, so I am now using two small dog toys per bump stop.... basically a generic version of a Kong dog toy for only a few bucks at menards. They seem to be holding up great!!! no signs of breaking or tearing! And they have a good firm feel.
I also built some overly elaborate half doors! I wanted to retain all the features of a full door (dryness and security) but have a very clean looking half door. They still open and lock/unlock from inside and outside. I decided to use a zipper system. The door rolls down inside of the door, under a hinged door. They don't rattle, leak, or flap at highway speeds...



Surprisingly I dont seem to have any decent pics of the doors zipped up.... Here is an ok one...

I used cordura and 30ga clear vinyl. I had never sewed a stitch before this. I found a bad ass 1942 singer 201 for 60$ on CL and went to town. At times it was frustrating, but I am happy with how it all turned out!
Since someone bumped this ol thing up, I feel I should update...
We took the 4runner out to Colorado (Ouray area) and Moab this year and hit a lot of trails I have wanted to hit for a looong time! I cant wait to go back!

Here is a link to some of the pics
http://s4.photobucket.com/user/4rnr/...%20Moab%202014
The original marlin springs were getting tired and were starting to bend after 8 years of hard use under a >5000lb truck, plus I broke a leaf in black hills a couple years back. So I threw in another set of 4"/5" marlin springs. It only lifted me one or two inches, which I was pleasantly surprised about.
The funky bump stops I built were chewing up bounce balls too fast, so I am now using two small dog toys per bump stop.... basically a generic version of a Kong dog toy for only a few bucks at menards. They seem to be holding up great!!! no signs of breaking or tearing! And they have a good firm feel.
I also built some overly elaborate half doors! I wanted to retain all the features of a full door (dryness and security) but have a very clean looking half door. They still open and lock/unlock from inside and outside. I decided to use a zipper system. The door rolls down inside of the door, under a hinged door. They don't rattle, leak, or flap at highway speeds...



Surprisingly I dont seem to have any decent pics of the doors zipped up.... Here is an ok one...

I used cordura and 30ga clear vinyl. I had never sewed a stitch before this. I found a bad ass 1942 singer 201 for 60$ on CL and went to town. At times it was frustrating, but I am happy with how it all turned out!
#273
The doors look good. Me and my dad took my oldest son (5) to Silverton back in July. Unfortunately my 4runner wasn't (and still isn't) done so we rented a jeep one day. We plan on going back next summer with the rest of the family and taking my 4runner and my dads Jeep. I cant wait.
Maybe I missed it in the thread, but what material is your cage built out of?
Maybe I missed it in the thread, but what material is your cage built out of?
Last edited by bump530; Sep 29, 2014 at 11:38 AM.
#278
Absolutely love the half doors. Any other pictures of them?
I know you bumped up to 37s a while ago, but i was curious if you had to sacrifice any up-travel to fit the 37s with only the 4 inch springs. How difficult was that?
I know you bumped up to 37s a while ago, but i was curious if you had to sacrifice any up-travel to fit the 37s with only the 4 inch springs. How difficult was that?
Last edited by RoBatt; Feb 23, 2015 at 12:16 PM.
#279
Here is a copied post on the half doors. Let me know if you have any specific questions. a lot went into them (more than I care to admit) and the pictures don't dive too deep.
I made these last spring.
My goal was to retain the functions of the original doors. Locking/unlocking/opening from inside and out. I also wanted a soft door and wanted to do something different from the buttons. So I used a #10 coil zipper and sewed a piece if piping to one side and made a channel around the door for it to ride in. then used 30 ga. clear vinyl and cordura for the door.
Ive never sewn a stitch in my life and after I got a quote for $600 and 8 to 10 weeks from a local canvas shop, I found a 1942 singer 201 for 60$ on CL, and figured it out.


The soft door rolls down and stores inside the door under a hinged door.






They don't rattle and surprisingly, they don't flap at highway speed.










