The dash in my 81 is trashed. Has anyone ever tried pouring fiberglass directly over the dash pad and then sand it to shape and paint??

 

this would be easier http://www.stockinteriors.com/DashCa...=484&MakeId=37
http://www.stockinteriors.com/DashCa...=484&MakeId=37

 

corax did a nice write up
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...repair-230891/

i am about half way through a dash redo project on a spare dash pad i have


scuffed it up first

2 layers of fiberglass so far.


if you go this route i recommend hand sanding or using a pad sander, a flapper disk make more work for you..

 

check out toyotafiberglass, they make a complete dash out of fiberglass, good stuff.

 

i have the same issue and have been thinking of taking a cheaper route. I have heard of people using foam insulation (Great Stuff door sealer) then cutting and sanding it down to what they want. i would like to put a 3 gauge pod to the right of the stock cluster and foam that in. Problem is finding something to cover it once it is the shape you want. I would either use some sort of fabric based material that i could use spray adhesive to attach. Or i would find some sort of paint that is very sturdy when dry and hard enough to not chip off.

 

Something like this; http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/67t_dashtop.htm

 

I read that link. When I used Great Stuff for a project I used old fashioned Cut-Rite wax paper to press against it and limit the expansion to where I wanted it. For the first few minutes it's really easy to shape and the wax paper lets you push and shape. Also wear disposable gloves. It's messy. After it dries the wax paper doesn't stick. You could then cover the dash with the thinnest fiberglass cloth you can find and use epoxy to cure it. Regular polyester resin would melt the Great Stuff. You can fair it with Bondo and then paint it. The dash would be hard though. Just like a fiberglass dash. So I'd probably buy the one from Canada and avoid all the work.

 

the one from Canada would save a lot of effort, but it also costs a pretty penny, and i would prefer to get those high-clearance fenders if i was going to get anything. How much effort could laying a thin sheet or two of fiberglass be? i know its a pain in the ass, but its not like i have to create a mold for it right?

 

My thoughts exactly!!! Might take some time and effort, but you can make it as good as you want. Not too mention the old saying, Built not Bought!!

 

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com Search for "West Epoxy" You need a quart of epoxy and a quart of hardener. Get the measuring pumps. Get the thinnest fiberglass cloth the offer. I think they sell it by the yard so measure.
Google for a free shipping code. You can look at tons of videos on YouTube. I think I learned the wax paper trick from them. The measuring pumps make it really easy. It does not get hot. You don't need breathing apparatus. To get rid of the cloth pattern the fiberglass will leave you need to do a thin layer of bondo. It should be way less than a dime's thickness. Then paint. I was always intimidated by the stuff but it's so easy. I fixed up an old sailboat and a Boston Whaler that must have been hit by a tree branch. Very easy with the right products. Once it's painted the repairs are invisible. I actually made fiberglass gravel guards -- those plastic things that stick to the front of the rear wheel wells on 1st gen 4Runners using the old ones as a mold but I'm not sure I'm going to use them.


I did find a cheaper method by searching google but it looks bad going on. The end result seems good. You could probably use vinyl paint instead of bedliner.


http://www.mgexp.com/article/dash-re...xperiment.html


Good luck.

 

I opted to just recover...have a couple of dash pads to experiment with..so this is what I ended up with...a bit time consuming but I am not in a rush to finish.

Can/will explain the process (if needed)...

V/r,

Chayse

 

That is the best dash I've seen yet. Love the TEQ molded into the cover.

Do tell us about how you did it...?

 

As we all know, these dashes are notorious for cracking...figure 30+ years and it is bound to happen. This is what I have found to work...granted probably a 100 different ways to do it (as seen here)...but I just wanted something different.

I have found that regular silicone will seal up the cracks but the old foam loves this stuff, so multiple layers will have to be laid to achieve an even fill. Once filled, just sand the silicone level. Now, as we all know, the old vinyl will curl on the edges, so just trim that flush.

Once ready, I covered the dash with 1/8" headliner material to give it a nice even, consistent look. Then, I had my Brother-in-law (a tattoo artist) draw me out a logo...it was a toss-up between the TEQ and old school Toyota "T"...like what is found on the grill. Once I decided, he made me a template and I cut it out. The foam the logo was cut out from was a dense, almost hard foam that would hold it's shape when pressed..sorta like what is found in a life jacket...just flexible, dense foam.

The rest is just laying the automotive vinyl, which was a challenge, especially around the instrument cluster...plenty of tight curves!

It all comes down to patience and working the vinyl. I try not to heat it...that will distort the vinyl, so I opted to steam it. That way it heats it but without the dreaded distortion. Honestly, it just comes down to one taking your time. I molded the logo with a plastic tool, so as to not score the vinyl.

The end result is what you see. Unique and different.. I plan to add the Toyota "T" to the lower door panels for an added touch. This is just a hobby and I have always wanted a 1st gen, so I found one in decent shape and have been at it ever since. I just finished my other project ('78 Fj40 with a Toyota 2UZ/4 spd auto/ mini xfer...so I needed another fix)! This one will stay 'somewhat stock'...minus the little things I plan to do. After it is all said and done, this will be my DD...my Tundra takes a beating at roughly 70 miles a day...so why not build a little classic 4 cylinder to run around.

The only other mod is the door panels...which we all know might as well be made out of unobtanium...so modded panels out of a later Toyota truck to work...similar to the mod listed in the sticky...although vinyl instead of the cloth SR5 ones.

All in all, easy enough to do, just take your time and make it what YOU want!


Thanks for the props and hope this gives others another idea to 'refresh' their old tired dash.

V/r,

Chayse

 

Thats awesome.

 

Thanks...I have a few extra dashes hanging around and might just have to try this.

But honestly, the 40 with a 2UZ swap has my attention. Did you use an earlier version with the throttle cable or the later with the drive by wire. Also, I heard the 4 speed is much simpler to work than the 5 speed because of the ECU's needing to talk to each other. Is this what you found to be true as well? Are you on Mud by chance?

 

I won't hijack the OP's thread but to answer your question..I am on mud..(IH8PVMT).