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I've got a problem with an 82 SR5 pickup with a 22r that my brother-in-law bought for $200 out of a farmer's field. The pickup wasn't running and the carb was the source of the problem. A friend of his replaced the stock carb with a Weber 32/36 DFAV carb (which is a 180 mirror image of the recommended DGEV carb). The friend sawed off the throttle linkage and welded it back on to make it fit the throttle cable from the pedal. It works, but it's just awfully sluggish past about 2500-3000 RPM (not sure exactly since his doesn't have a tach). My truck is an 83 SR5 pickup with a 22r and a stock carb. It's radically more peppy in acceleration and runs to a higher top speed despite my truck only having a 4 speed and his having the stock 5 speed. I suspected the carb might be to blame so I started researching. The DFAV carb model supposedly has a liquid choke, which wouldn't be compatible with with the electric choke on the stock Yota. Having studied his, I found out someone replaced it with the electric choke so it looks like the DFEV instead of the DFAV carb, but that's not the model number (see pics). Based on my previous information assuming it was a liquid choke, I thought maybe the choke wasn't opening up but with the electric choke it should be opening without issue. The welded throttle linkage is a little bent and the spring doesn't make it snap back easily, so that could be part of an issue. Could you guys take a look and give any suggestions? Do I need to just replace this whole carb with a Weber 32/36 DGEV to fix it or can I try some tinkering on this one to get it running?
I did send an email to Weber tech support about it. Here's their reply:
NO not quite but you would I think have other issues that might be limiting the throttle opending. It could simply be set wrong and the fact that the linkage does not work the same as the factory rod linkage not sure how they converted the functional throttle linkage and maintained the choke connections.
Im thinking you have other things going on the DFV family of webers works the linkage opposite the standard DGV family of carburetors we would use on this engine package.
So not sure what someone might have done to the linkage itself to limit the choke full open function so take a few pictures.
if a choke was having an issue its more like all in or all off but not something that stops half way unless something else is in bind or been modified. there is a simple rotational adjustment to make the choke full open rotating the center housing of the water choke hosing assy to allow the choke to fully open.
Other wise the thing that allows this to happen is a rod from the main throttle lever to the choke system that clears the choke cam when system is open.
but to your question: you need the electric element, the plastic backing plate and possibly a new steel three screw ring that holds it in place.
Please confirm your location in case I can suggest a local dealer or dealer near you that might have these parts or have my sales team follow up and supply the needed parts but I suggest you send us a few pictures of were you are now what your system looks like and how it is installed showing the linkage side if you can. along with other shots
The carburetor we offer for this is the 32 36 DGEV carburetor flows 20% more than the dfv family if you end up considering or needing to change out the carburetor I suggest in this application if this is used on a truck or offroad or anything used in a untility situation the 38 38 dges conversion upgrade offers 30% more torque and performance gains with no economy loss over the 32 36. I deal for trucks pulling small trailers used offroad or for just working around town
look for some input on your situation and confirm the use goals for your vehicle
Well...emissions changed so much over the years and I only know a little about how it functions, so don't take my input too seriously.
But - I see an open vacuum port. Which means big vacuum leak. I see the PCV valve routed to a strange location (strange to me). I see a return spring which might be stretched too far to allow for full throttle. I see in general a really dirty and modified engine bay, meaning any number of things could be wrong, in addition to whatever's wrong with the carb.
Yea, the return spring on the throttle linkage is pretty weak toward the closed end. With the trunk on it'll vibrate back to shut, but when the truck is off and you push the gas pedal in the throttle doesn't jump back to full closed and the air intake butterfly valves won't snap back shut without a little poke. There are several vacuum lines that have been removed and I don't know where they should be connected back up. I'll have to take some time and study mine (thankfully in great stock condition) to trace them.
Beyond what's been pointed out already, Webers require tuning to work properly. Even on unmodified engines. Use a jet kit and the Weber tuning parameters to make sure the carb is jetted right. The 32/36 is just enough carb for a 22R and it isn't unusual for R engines to be unable to redline in gear.
The rpm range you specify would be main and air jets, but the idle circuit should be tuned first. More information on tuning is available from carbs unlimited.
The only vacuum line you should need is the ignition advance. It plugs into the base plate and runs to the advance diaphragm on the distributor. The rest can be plugged. The brake booster should be running off of the manifold. When tuning a carb, disconnect the vacuum advance line and plug the port until tuning is finished.
Last edited by jimbyjimb; Mar 18, 2015 at 08:10 AM.
Beyond what's been pointed out already, Webers require tuning to work properly. Even on unmodified engines. Use a jet kit and the Weber tuning parameters to make sure the carb is jetted right. The 32/36 is just enough carb for a 22R and it isn't unusual for R engines to be unable to redline in gear.
The rpm range you specify would be main and air jets, but the idle circuit should be tuned first. More information on tuning is available from carbs unlimited.
Do you know if there would be an issue with the primary and secondary barrels being reversed on the DFAV model that's installed on his truck versus the DGEV model that is recommended for light duty or are the jets pretty much the only suspect? Based on the Weber statistics the jet sizes are almost identical but are slightly smaller on the DFV series. I suppose the alternative would be to just size up with the 38/38 but that's a definite conversion and getting into a decent project since it's already been modified once to run this Frankenstein carb. I was hoping to avoid major renovations to get just a little more oomph out of it.
Having the main vs secondary barrel reversed makes no difference. The fact that it flows less CFM than the correct carb does is certainly a contributing factor to decreased performance, as a regular 32/36 chokes even a stock 22R mildly. but just barely so. A 38/38 is a bit much for a stock 22R and a 32/36 is a bit light. A 36/36 would be perfect for a stock or mild 22R, but for commonality we have to choose a little bit small or a little bit big. I chose big.
Most people that I come across (not on the forums here, but in real life) do not bother to tune and jet their Webers. If this carb has not been jetted it is feasible that incorrect jet sizes can be to blame, or partially to blame, for your current dilemma.
A stock 32/36 will need to be jetted up to work properly on a 20R, let alone a 22R. you should be able to get it running well enough on this carb after ensuring you have no additional problems and proper jetting.
I have a 1980 20R with the Weber 38/38. I had to lean it out a little but it runs great. I would recommend replacing the carb with the 38/38. And you definitely need to address the vacuum lines.
Mar 17, 2015 | 06:32 PM
