I've been reading through LOTS of threads (a la search function) about welders and have gotten lots of great information, some of it even confusing because of the variety of opinions offered. I came up with some questions however...

living in a townhome/apartment complex, the only 240v outlet I have is where my dryer is...2 floors up, so I don't think running an extension cord for that far (to reach garage or outside) is practical, so I guess I'll be looking at higher amperage 110v models (Millermatic 175)...does this sound about right?

EDIT: apparently the 175 is 230v so scratch that welder...

Also, I plan on doing some fab work (I took a welding class at my local CC so im not completely new to welding) on my truck such as bumpers front and rear...but what thickness metal is the norm to use for say a front bumper made out of sheet metal? what about tubes? with tubes, do I run a big rick of having too much heat with the 175 or similar model?

In the far future I'd like to work on a SAS and flatbed...would I get by with a higher amperage 110v mig welder?

I've done stick before and it was fine but I'm thinking a MIG that I can run flux-core wire on as well as use gas wire if needed would be the most versatile for me. Your thoughts?

Thanks guys.

By the way, my budget is probably $600 though that's extreme, the cheaper the better

 

Wire in a 230 volt socket where you need to. It's not that difficult

I have the MM175.
I love this welder.

Using .035 flux core, I can burn holes in 1/4" material.
Using .020 and gas I can weld up 22 ga sheet metal.

It's only got a 35% duty cycle, however, I have never put this welder into thermal overload (the welder will shutitself down if you exceed the duty cycle, and it gets too hot).

For what it sounds like you want to do, buck up for a 220volt welder.
HTH

 

i dont have the option of installing a 240v plug down in the garage, i rent this place monthly, i can't do something like that. a really long 240v extension cord from the dryer wouldn't work too well would it?

 

You could do that.
The welder only needs 19 amps at max capacity.

This is redneck, but, what I do, is I have 2 30 amp standard exetnsion cables, which are wired into 1 240v receptacle. The hots go to the 2 blades in the receptacle. The grounds and the 'neutrals' go to the ground pin.

Then I plug each exension cable into 2 plug sockets on 2 SEPARATE circuit breakers.



Works pretty well.

 

haha that IS pretty redneck. I've seen a commercial box that does that for you, though it is $130. Would I get by better on 110v using a stick/arc welder? I can weld that way too...

 

For an SAS...you want more than a 110v welder to get one pass good penetration.

Find a friend who has one, move and/or save your money.

 

youre right, i guess im just hoping there is something good enough out there for me using 110v. Granted a SAS/flatbed is in the FAR future, for now I'd be doing fab work like making my own bumper and just some repairs when needed. I could probably get by with a 110v MIG using multiple passes...

 

Really?

I could build you a box that will do that for $100...
heck I could build it for about $30 in parts....

I'd say bite the bullet, do the redneck thing and get a MM175 AT LEAST. Because you WILL want more welder if you get the 110 unit.

 

IS the fuse panel in the garage or on an inside wall of the garage? Or even if its on the other side of a garage wall, you can add a breaker and set you up a 220V AC plug. IF you use 30 amp set up (most buzz boxes) then 10 AWG wire is needed. Some welders use a 50 amp plug, then you use 6 AWG wire.

 

alright so sas aside (thats going to be in the way far future, read: after i graduate and have my own place and a little money), as far as building say a rear bumper and doing things like welding new endplates to my frame...does anyone have DIRECT experience using maybe the millermatic 135 or the Hobart Handler 140 or any other specifically 110v model mig OR stick?

 

You can make an extension cord with some 3 or 4 conductor wire from the hardware store and some matching sockets. I use a couple of dryer extension cords with my MM175 when I need to get out under my truck and that works fine.

 

Make a freind in the lower level, plug into their dryer/stove outlet, and pay them back for the juice.

 

i have a Hobart 125. i used it to build my rear bumper and it did fine on the 3/16" plate - which is what you should use for a bumper made of plate. if you're building a front bumper, then you'll need thicker (1/4" or more) for a winch. you can simply do multiple passes if you have to.

the 125 is OK. a 140 would be better, and i would have bought one if i didn't get such a smokin' deal on the 125. i got it new, shipped, for less than $300. if you go w/ a 110V machine, then you can do all the stuff you want, including a flatbed or SAS. your frame is only 1/8" thick anyway. not like you need a bix buzzbox for that. there have been plenty of SAS's done w/ 110V machines. it's more about the person doing the welding than the box at that point.

in retrospect, i like my 125, and i'm very happy with it and what i can do. would i like to have a 240V machine? sure, who wouldn't... is that feasable right now? no. it's also expensive to get the hookup installed, so i just make do with what i have - which works fine.

 

thanks, thats the kind of real-world scenario i was looking for. i know its favorable to have 240v because i could go bigger but it just isnt an option. on your 100, did you do the kit to be able to do gas or do you do just flux core?

 

The 135 or 140 might be a 110 volt unit. If they are, they may require a 20 amp circuit. These will have a horizontal prong on the plug, circuit will be 12 AWG wire. There is a rare 30 amp 110 volt unit, will be a single plug and a breed all its own. It would be just as much trouble to add one of these as it would to add a 220 volt unit.

 

i have a lincoln weldpak 3200 wire feed, i've done my rear bumper and sliders with it, reliable and easy to use with a little practice. my welds are getting better and better. so far the welds have held great, it just takes practice. to use one like mine, you just need a 20a plug.

 

i just do flux right now. you get better penetration w/ flux anyway. it's a 125AMP, 110V. i upgraded the circuit breaker in my garage from a 20-A to a 30-A. it's a simple swap in the panel. i had to do that cause when i was welding and the freezer would kick on, then the breaker would trip.

 

Well, there is more to it than just a larger breaker. I suspect you had 12 AWG as you had a 20 amp breaker. Now you must run 10 AWG if you have a 30 amp breaker or you could possibly overheat the wire and start a fire. If you keep an eye on it, and its close to the box, you might be OK, as long as you are aware of it. I'd consider changing it. Maybe make a designated 30 AMP 110V circuit just for your welder.

I run a Matco Tools 220V MIG with the sheild gas. It has the stitch/spot timer etc. I use the heck out of it. Its basically made by Century.