1993 4runner - Documenting everything!
03-25-2013, 05:15 PM
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1993 4runner - Documenting everything!
And so it begins! Today I bought a 4runner. 1993. Badged as an SR5, but we'll talk about that later. High mileage motor, but with some maintenance. Not without issues, but well below my budget and in a condition that I felt quite comfortable with.
I took the Seattle-Bremerton ferry and met the seller. She gave me the low down on the truck, and I drove it home.
The only thing I have done so far is file the Affidavit in Lieu of Title/Bill of Sale to get a replacement title in my name.
Wooey!
I took the Seattle-Bremerton ferry and met the seller. She gave me the low down on the truck, and I drove it home.
The only thing I have done so far is file the Affidavit in Lieu of Title/Bill of Sale to get a replacement title in my name.
Wooey!
03-25-2013, 07:14 PM
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So far, plans are as follows (some of this is mundane, but essential):
- insure it
- get emissions tested, and hopefully passed
- license it!
- base line fluid change (I can do oil/coolant, but t-case and diffs I want done too.) I think I may drop it at a shop so they can do everything at once.
- extensive multipoint inspection: I could run down a list and check most things myself, but for $80-$90, having a printout out status or various items would be good for me. I'm not made of money, so hiring a shop to do work isn't easy. But I lack the proper tools, much of the knowledge and ALL of the workspace to be able to do things myself. An inspection will help me sort the battles out. Then I'll pick and choose which ones to battle.
It's a pretty high mileage truck. 280,000 on what appears to be original motor. Shifted fine on the super short drive home, but didn't get a real driving in on it yet. A T-chain and crankshaft seal kit was done within the past 3 years, and within that time frame, I don't think it's gotten a lot of use.
I'm shooting for a solid powertrain and a solid driveline first. Cosmetics are last. I have vowed to not let it become a commuter truck like my last, so this will be our adventure vehicle, be it for a day long cruise or a multiweek trek.
- insure it
- get emissions tested, and hopefully passed
- license it!
- base line fluid change (I can do oil/coolant, but t-case and diffs I want done too.) I think I may drop it at a shop so they can do everything at once.
- extensive multipoint inspection: I could run down a list and check most things myself, but for $80-$90, having a printout out status or various items would be good for me. I'm not made of money, so hiring a shop to do work isn't easy. But I lack the proper tools, much of the knowledge and ALL of the workspace to be able to do things myself. An inspection will help me sort the battles out. Then I'll pick and choose which ones to battle.
It's a pretty high mileage truck. 280,000 on what appears to be original motor. Shifted fine on the super short drive home, but didn't get a real driving in on it yet. A T-chain and crankshaft seal kit was done within the past 3 years, and within that time frame, I don't think it's gotten a lot of use.
I'm shooting for a solid powertrain and a solid driveline first. Cosmetics are last. I have vowed to not let it become a commuter truck like my last, so this will be our adventure vehicle, be it for a day long cruise or a multiweek trek.
03-26-2013, 06:48 PM
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Todays task consisted of contacting insurance and the dealer. I got a monstrously outrageous quote from Progressive. My '88 4runner I was was paying $270 every 6 months. That was for 25/50/100 liability only, with a discount for mult. policies (renters ins.) and continuous coverage. I have had a vehicle, nor a need for insurance since Dec. '11, but we still have the renters policy. My quote today, given for the same coverage and situation, just the vehicle change, was $72 a month! I imagine the premiums would reduce a little after having an active policy again for some time, but that seems pretty shady. I'm going to be doing some shopping around tonight.
As for the dealer: I wanted to find out what the cost of an inspection would be and find out about getting a master key cut. I asked for a "multipoint" inspection, and described why I wanted it (read a couple posts ago), and the woman on the phone said I may want a "buyers" inspection. She said it would be more extensive than a typical inspection, and would run about $160 and take three hours.
I spaced on asking about the cost of a full vehicle fluid change.
And when it came time to get a new key, I just hit the wall. They had keys in stock, but my VIN was not pulling up a key code. It wasn't an issue with the year, it's just that my VIN literally pulled up no information. Legal Washington title, last registration just expired in Dec. of 2012, but no VIN. The dealer tried calling up to a Canadian dealer on the hunch that it may have originally been a Canadian vehicle, but they were closed. Not only am I stuck with a valet only key (it works on the doors and ignition, but I really want to see if anything fun was left in the glove box by the previous PO (the PO I bought it from never got it unlocked either!) I also want to rule out the possibility of the valey key being a reason the tailgate won't work, though, the switch inside doesn't yield results either. Crap, what a day.
Question about the truck: It doesn't have the awesome rear heater that my old 4runner did. Did 2nd gens not come equipped, or is mine a reject. The truck is badged as an SR5, but it doesn't see that Special, Really... 5
Get it? How I played with the colors? To spell out SR5? Awe crap...
As for the dealer: I wanted to find out what the cost of an inspection would be and find out about getting a master key cut. I asked for a "multipoint" inspection, and described why I wanted it (read a couple posts ago), and the woman on the phone said I may want a "buyers" inspection. She said it would be more extensive than a typical inspection, and would run about $160 and take three hours.
I spaced on asking about the cost of a full vehicle fluid change.
And when it came time to get a new key, I just hit the wall. They had keys in stock, but my VIN was not pulling up a key code. It wasn't an issue with the year, it's just that my VIN literally pulled up no information. Legal Washington title, last registration just expired in Dec. of 2012, but no VIN. The dealer tried calling up to a Canadian dealer on the hunch that it may have originally been a Canadian vehicle, but they were closed. Not only am I stuck with a valet only key (it works on the doors and ignition, but I really want to see if anything fun was left in the glove box by the previous PO (the PO I bought it from never got it unlocked either!) I also want to rule out the possibility of the valey key being a reason the tailgate won't work, though, the switch inside doesn't yield results either. Crap, what a day.
Question about the truck: It doesn't have the awesome rear heater that my old 4runner did. Did 2nd gens not come equipped, or is mine a reject. The truck is badged as an SR5, but it doesn't see that Special, Really... 5
Get it? How I played with the colors? To spell out SR5? Awe crap...
03-26-2013, 07:24 PM
#6
Key code is on the passenger side door lock, atleast on the 89+ models. Should be the same on the older ones I expect also. You'll have to pull the door apart and remove the lock cylinder, might be able to get it with an inspection mirror and flashlight.
Common problems with VIN are just user error, "Oh" is not a valid VIN letter it'll be a zero. And of course shotty records in the pre digital age
http://www.toyotareference.com/4runner/1990-1995 Will let you look at the Brochure for your model year and see what was standard and optional equipment.
Common problems with VIN are just user error, "Oh" is not a valid VIN letter it'll be a zero. And of course shotty records in the pre digital age
http://www.toyotareference.com/4runner/1990-1995 Will let you look at the Brochure for your model year and see what was standard and optional equipment.
03-27-2013, 07:26 AM
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Just because it says SR5 doesnt mean the original buyer opted to get all the "good" stuff. I have seen maybe 1 or 2 2nd gen 4Runners that did not have the SR5 badge, and I dont know if they just fell off, were taken off or didnt come with them.
Anyway, my '95 "SR5" 22re/5spd 4Runner has all basic stuff- manual windows, locks, cheapy cloth seats, manual seat adjustment with just forward-back, recline. Didnt have a rear spoiler (I put one on, though); non-power antenna; No chrome from the factory (just like yours!).
It does have rear ABS (Which was removed before I bought it), rear heat (which is pretty common in later 2nd gens regardless of package) and an "SR5" badge.
Thats a good looking truck. Its the same color as mine! Haha.
Anyway, my '95 "SR5" 22re/5spd 4Runner has all basic stuff- manual windows, locks, cheapy cloth seats, manual seat adjustment with just forward-back, recline. Didnt have a rear spoiler (I put one on, though); non-power antenna; No chrome from the factory (just like yours!).
It does have rear ABS (Which was removed before I bought it), rear heat (which is pretty common in later 2nd gens regardless of package) and an "SR5" badge.
Thats a good looking truck. Its the same color as mine! Haha.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 03-27-2013 at 07:31 AM.
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03-28-2013, 08:10 PM
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Well, in the past two days, a few things have happened.
First, I called a Canadian dealer to check on the possibility of the truck having a Canadian origin, and if so, getting a key code (the Seattle dealer was dragging their feet on this, claiming "they aren't picking up." Funny, they answered my call on the 2nd ring...) They said no-go, U.S. vehicle, but suggested calling a different dealer. I did, and they also had no luck getting key code to pop up. Started getting a feeling that 1993 data may be out of the database at this point, so I accepted the fact that I would have to pull the door apart. I was a bit worried about it being to much of a hassle, but luckily it wasn't. Interior panel removal went pretty easily (I only happened to destroy 2 of the push clips during panel removal! Pretty good, I think), and thank goodness I happened upon the single posting on here that mentions that by simply removing a snap-clip from the back of the tumbler, one can skip some of mechanism and door handle dismantling. Tumbler slid out, and I wrote down every gosh darn number stamped on that damn thing. I'm guessing the key code I want is the 5 digit one with 1 letter followed by 4 numbers. I'm just going to take everything with. Finally! Keys.
Second, I got a ticket. Truck was parked on the street with the old plates from the previous owner, and they expired in December. I was waiting to get it registered because Seattle requires smogging for 1993 vehicles this year. I couldn't do that because of scheduling and because I don't have it insured yet (which WA also requires), and I don't have off street parking. Sonuva...
First, I called a Canadian dealer to check on the possibility of the truck having a Canadian origin, and if so, getting a key code (the Seattle dealer was dragging their feet on this, claiming "they aren't picking up." Funny, they answered my call on the 2nd ring...) They said no-go, U.S. vehicle, but suggested calling a different dealer. I did, and they also had no luck getting key code to pop up. Started getting a feeling that 1993 data may be out of the database at this point, so I accepted the fact that I would have to pull the door apart. I was a bit worried about it being to much of a hassle, but luckily it wasn't. Interior panel removal went pretty easily (I only happened to destroy 2 of the push clips during panel removal! Pretty good, I think), and thank goodness I happened upon the single posting on here that mentions that by simply removing a snap-clip from the back of the tumbler, one can skip some of mechanism and door handle dismantling. Tumbler slid out, and I wrote down every gosh darn number stamped on that damn thing. I'm guessing the key code I want is the 5 digit one with 1 letter followed by 4 numbers. I'm just going to take everything with. Finally! Keys.
Second, I got a ticket. Truck was parked on the street with the old plates from the previous owner, and they expired in December. I was waiting to get it registered because Seattle requires smogging for 1993 vehicles this year. I couldn't do that because of scheduling and because I don't have it insured yet (which WA also requires), and I don't have off street parking. Sonuva...
03-30-2013, 09:56 AM
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Well, the master key did not open the glove box... but a flat bladed screw driver did 
Nothing in the except old insurance papers, registration, and Maintenance Records! Woohoo! Nothing big, but consistent with what the PO told me. Grabbed a day-pass from the DOL so I can go get emissions tested.
And thats what kinda worries me. I couldn't sleep last night, and was up on the this board for a few hours looking at people high idle diagnosis. With a cold start, the idle would go right to 2k. No hunting or surging, just right up there. I don't have any flammables/solvents to spray around the vacuum lines, and I need to read more about testing the various sensors/valves that deal with idle. In the mean time, I turned down the big brassy idle screw. All the way in, then backed it out some. After doing this, I walked to the drivers door to peek in and see the RPM's when I saw the white smoke out of the tailpipe. Damnit. Is that the headgasket? The truck has 280k on it, and I have no indication it ever got a bottom end job/rings. I wouldn't be surprised. But now I am concerned about emissions.
I guess we'll find out in about an hour.
Aaannnnnd, my rear window doesn't work. Key turns both ways, and I can hear a click from the relays(?) when I do it. The PO said she has put a new motor in some time ago, but I haven't tested anything but my patience, and right now it is failing.
Nothing in the except old insurance papers, registration, and Maintenance Records! Woohoo! Nothing big, but consistent with what the PO told me. Grabbed a day-pass from the DOL so I can go get emissions tested.And thats what kinda worries me. I couldn't sleep last night, and was up on the this board for a few hours looking at people high idle diagnosis. With a cold start, the idle would go right to 2k. No hunting or surging, just right up there. I don't have any flammables/solvents to spray around the vacuum lines, and I need to read more about testing the various sensors/valves that deal with idle. In the mean time, I turned down the big brassy idle screw. All the way in, then backed it out some. After doing this, I walked to the drivers door to peek in and see the RPM's when I saw the white smoke out of the tailpipe. Damnit. Is that the headgasket? The truck has 280k on it, and I have no indication it ever got a bottom end job/rings. I wouldn't be surprised. But now I am concerned about emissions.
I guess we'll find out in about an hour.
Aaannnnnd, my rear window doesn't work. Key turns both ways, and I can hear a click from the relays(?) when I do it. The PO said she has put a new motor in some time ago, but I haven't tested anything but my patience, and right now it is failing.
03-30-2013, 09:26 PM
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Emissions passed, plates received and mounted, insurance purchased!
I started to scrub a bit of the moss from the crevices on the truck from when it had been sitting, but I gave up. Easter Sunday, the gal and I are going to go to a car wash and give it a hardcore cleaning.
Its' maiden legal voyage was to a little gelato shop a couple neighborhoods away (Fainting Goat in Wallingford), and since it was the first night drive, I thought it a good idea to check the lights!Both of the lenses up front have rock chips in them (and were subsequently gobbed over with some sort of sealant), and tonight I found my driver side is out. Hopefully just a bad bulb.
Also interesting, the red "BACK DOOR" light kept flashing intermittently during the drive, mainly when going over a bump. I have no idea where the sensor for that would be, but it may help to figure it out. I think the problem with the lack of movement is stemming from the motor or the mechanism, not sure much the wiring or electrical. As stated in the last post, I can definitely hear the relay click when trying the key in the tailgate and the switch up front.
I started to scrub a bit of the moss from the crevices on the truck from when it had been sitting, but I gave up. Easter Sunday, the gal and I are going to go to a car wash and give it a hardcore cleaning.
Its' maiden legal voyage was to a little gelato shop a couple neighborhoods away (Fainting Goat in Wallingford), and since it was the first night drive, I thought it a good idea to check the lights!Both of the lenses up front have rock chips in them (and were subsequently gobbed over with some sort of sealant), and tonight I found my driver side is out. Hopefully just a bad bulb.
Also interesting, the red "BACK DOOR" light kept flashing intermittently during the drive, mainly when going over a bump. I have no idea where the sensor for that would be, but it may help to figure it out. I think the problem with the lack of movement is stemming from the motor or the mechanism, not sure much the wiring or electrical. As stated in the last post, I can definitely hear the relay click when trying the key in the tailgate and the switch up front.
03-31-2013, 02:23 PM
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Easter Sunday - Work Day and cleaning day!
Todays task started with wanting to replace the bulb in the drivers side headlamp. To get the lamp assembly out, one must remove the grill. To get MY grill off, I needed to remove my bumper. Why? The huge crumple in the corner was preventing the lower grill lip from coming away from the front end, even a little bit. The two bolts holding the wings of the bumper/valance to the body sheared off at the nut, but the rubber bumpers still register on the broken stud. Bumper came off, my hammer and a dolly came out, and some loud noises were heard on this holiest of days. Not a perfect job, but enough for the lens and grill to go back where/how they should. Someday, I would like to replace the bumper, so this definitely works for now.
Bulb replaced, and as luck would have it, re-installation of the lens assembly revealed a broken mount within the assembly itself. It affect the direction of the lens, but I hope I fixed it enough to hold me over until a new assembly can be acquired. So long as the lens isn't bouncing around and shining into oncoming faces, I'll be happy.
Time to go to Brown Bar car wash!
Wooey!
Bulb replaced, and as luck would have it, re-installation of the lens assembly revealed a broken mount within the assembly itself. It affect the direction of the lens, but I hope I fixed it enough to hold me over until a new assembly can be acquired. So long as the lens isn't bouncing around and shining into oncoming faces, I'll be happy.
Time to go to Brown Bar car wash!
Wooey!
04-07-2013, 10:24 AM
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Note to self: Never again attempt to fix a messed up tailgate window and regulator assembly on a rainy weekend with the truck parked in the street. It makes you miserable.
Addendum: At least it is fixed now
Addendum: At least it is fixed now
04-27-2013, 03:08 PM
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I haven't had a chance to get much of an update here regarding my truck. Not using it daily means shake-downs happen on the weekend, and boy are they.
A couple weeks ago, I sprung for a new windshield. Smart Glass on 4th Ave. in the SODO neighborhood of Seattle yielded a blue shade windshield for about $180. Alot better than Autolite, and pretty quick too. Two things that bugged me were...
1 - They removed my antenna (stubby rubber one) and did not reinstall it, and I didn't notice until I got home, and they made zero effort to assist me in getting back. They close before I get off at night, and my bus commute prevents me from going in early. Perhaps a mobile unit could drop it off? Nope.
2 - They didn't vacuum the mess of broken glass bits and scraped off RTV from the nooks and crannies of the dash and front cab area.
For the low price and a now non-leaking and legal windshield that we can actually see through, I'm done complaining.
Last weekend, Michelle and I loaded our bikes into the back and drove up to La Conner, WA for a 68 mile tulip ride. A shakedown item happened just before getting to La Conner when the brake and charge lights came on. Alternator. They didn't stay on for more than a minute, but when they were on, I definitely the Ammeter pegged at the high limit (+18 amps), leading me to a failing voltage regulator. The next day, I ordered a reman stock Alt. (60 amp) from O-reillys. I spent that whole day and the previous night looking at HO alternator options, from rewinds and jag/GM swaps to specific HO assemblies, but for the time being, I just needed a newish/reliable option. In a couple years, perhaps a trek-of-a-lifetime type journey will demand a larger Alt. Then so be it.
The following Monday, I swapped the alternator in. In my '88, I was able to do this without dealing with draining coolant and pulling the lower hose. This time, I either forgot how to do it, or it's just a tighter fit, so the coolant was drained and hose pulled and everything went back in like Finn.
While I was working on the truck, I also ripped the dash apart to replace some spent bulbs. A couple 194's and some 64's later, I had lights again! Climate control light was greatly appreciated for night driving! I also pulled out the Autopage alarm system that been installed at some point in the trucks life. With no knowledge of its working, and no idea how to turn it off, I decided pulling it out completely would be a better bet. Alarms don't deter people from stealing cars. It makes them rip out wiring so it will stop screaming.
Fast forward to this weekend
Last night, we drove back up through the Skagit valley and got a campsite at Deception Pass State Park. The noise from the valve tick or exhaust leak is really annoying. I need to spend some time figuring out which of those two things I'm dealing with. THEN, this morning, when driving back, I go to flip on the fan and warm up the cab and the blower sounds like it spun a bearing or lost a blade or something. Audible knocking and physical vibration progresses louder and worse the faster the fan goes. Not sure how to diagnose this without taking the dash apart again. Perhaps I can simply pull the glovebox? I hope it's something I can fix.
That's all for now. Pics coming soon!
A couple weeks ago, I sprung for a new windshield. Smart Glass on 4th Ave. in the SODO neighborhood of Seattle yielded a blue shade windshield for about $180. Alot better than Autolite, and pretty quick too. Two things that bugged me were...
1 - They removed my antenna (stubby rubber one) and did not reinstall it, and I didn't notice until I got home, and they made zero effort to assist me in getting back. They close before I get off at night, and my bus commute prevents me from going in early. Perhaps a mobile unit could drop it off? Nope.
2 - They didn't vacuum the mess of broken glass bits and scraped off RTV from the nooks and crannies of the dash and front cab area.
For the low price and a now non-leaking and legal windshield that we can actually see through, I'm done complaining.
Last weekend, Michelle and I loaded our bikes into the back and drove up to La Conner, WA for a 68 mile tulip ride. A shakedown item happened just before getting to La Conner when the brake and charge lights came on. Alternator. They didn't stay on for more than a minute, but when they were on, I definitely the Ammeter pegged at the high limit (+18 amps), leading me to a failing voltage regulator. The next day, I ordered a reman stock Alt. (60 amp) from O-reillys. I spent that whole day and the previous night looking at HO alternator options, from rewinds and jag/GM swaps to specific HO assemblies, but for the time being, I just needed a newish/reliable option. In a couple years, perhaps a trek-of-a-lifetime type journey will demand a larger Alt. Then so be it.
The following Monday, I swapped the alternator in. In my '88, I was able to do this without dealing with draining coolant and pulling the lower hose. This time, I either forgot how to do it, or it's just a tighter fit, so the coolant was drained and hose pulled and everything went back in like Finn.
While I was working on the truck, I also ripped the dash apart to replace some spent bulbs. A couple 194's and some 64's later, I had lights again! Climate control light was greatly appreciated for night driving! I also pulled out the Autopage alarm system that been installed at some point in the trucks life. With no knowledge of its working, and no idea how to turn it off, I decided pulling it out completely would be a better bet. Alarms don't deter people from stealing cars. It makes them rip out wiring so it will stop screaming.
Fast forward to this weekend
Last night, we drove back up through the Skagit valley and got a campsite at Deception Pass State Park. The noise from the valve tick or exhaust leak is really annoying. I need to spend some time figuring out which of those two things I'm dealing with. THEN, this morning, when driving back, I go to flip on the fan and warm up the cab and the blower sounds like it spun a bearing or lost a blade or something. Audible knocking and physical vibration progresses louder and worse the faster the fan goes. Not sure how to diagnose this without taking the dash apart again. Perhaps I can simply pull the glovebox? I hope it's something I can fix.
That's all for now. Pics coming soon!
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