yotarob2005's 1986 4Runner Build-Up Thread
#181
#183
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 122
From: Northeast Pennsylvania
wow...you are really wanting this thing done. if you can , snap a pic, the link that was posted before is a good pic too.
#184
Yeah, LOL especially since I have to be AT work at 7 am. I can't wait to finish this phase of the project so that I can get some sleep. My advise to anyone would be to not attempt this type of project when your kids are 2 & 4 because there are just not enough hours in the day. I am turning 30 years old in a couple of days & I feel like I am 50!
#186
BTW, the JB weld is drying now! Hope it doesn't leak
#187
Good deal...look for some of that 2 part epoxy that you can drill. I know the local auto store used to have it. Take a tube with you!!!
Lack of sleep and working 10 fold will age you 20 real quick like.
Lack of sleep and working 10 fold will age you 20 real quick like.
#191
Of course things did not go as planned last night
. I got the old load sensing proportioning valve removed & ran all of the neccesary brake lines. The double flaring tool that I rented was a piece of crap, but I am pretty happy with how it all came out. Like most of the other who have done this I decided to put my new adjustable proportioning vavle in the engine compartment by the master cylinder instead of the rear frame rail for easier adjustment. Besides fighting the flare tool, everything went pretty smooth & came out nice untill I went to remove the bypassed brake & didn't have the correct plug. I guess my plan is to take one of the old brake line fittings & fill the trough hole with weld to plug it off. At any rate I should be able to take care of that issue in a matter of 5 minutes, then the brakes will just need to be bleed. Here are a couple of the pics.
I decided not to mount the new proportioning valve because it would have been a pain in the neck to run the new brake lines, but they are so rigid & the proportioning valve is so light that it doesn't move at all.

This is how I did the rear line, 1 line was eliminated & this one was redirected from the old proportioning valve directlly to the rear brakes. I would like for this line to be a little higher & tighter but it was a pain to bend without kinking.

Finally this is where the other end of the eliminate brake line tied into the equasion in the passenger side wheel well. You can see where I need to put the plug.

All in all it doesn't look like much but took me a couple of hours to do. I think this is going to be a good fix for my brake problem & a nice upgrade aswell
. I got the old load sensing proportioning valve removed & ran all of the neccesary brake lines. The double flaring tool that I rented was a piece of crap, but I am pretty happy with how it all came out. Like most of the other who have done this I decided to put my new adjustable proportioning vavle in the engine compartment by the master cylinder instead of the rear frame rail for easier adjustment. Besides fighting the flare tool, everything went pretty smooth & came out nice untill I went to remove the bypassed brake & didn't have the correct plug. I guess my plan is to take one of the old brake line fittings & fill the trough hole with weld to plug it off. At any rate I should be able to take care of that issue in a matter of 5 minutes, then the brakes will just need to be bleed. Here are a couple of the pics.I decided not to mount the new proportioning valve because it would have been a pain in the neck to run the new brake lines, but they are so rigid & the proportioning valve is so light that it doesn't move at all.

This is how I did the rear line, 1 line was eliminated & this one was redirected from the old proportioning valve directlly to the rear brakes. I would like for this line to be a little higher & tighter but it was a pain to bend without kinking.

Finally this is where the other end of the eliminate brake line tied into the equasion in the passenger side wheel well. You can see where I need to put the plug.

All in all it doesn't look like much but took me a couple of hours to do. I think this is going to be a good fix for my brake problem & a nice upgrade aswell
#193
I am somewhat ashamed to say this but I bought some new windsheild wiper blades in case I get a little mud on the trail but I couldn't put them on
. I don't think that the blade frames are replaceable, that you can only use wiper inserts. I guess I have to return them & try to get a different style??
#196
Thanks 92 Toy, but mine are totally different, it doesn't look like they come off at all & only the insert is replaceable. I might do a little cutting & go for something closer to what you have.
EDIT: you have me second guessing myself now! I will take another look at mine before I return the ones I have. I highlly doubt that I am that blind but we will see.
EDIT: you have me second guessing myself now! I will take another look at mine before I return the ones I have. I highlly doubt that I am that blind but we will see.
Last edited by yotarob2005; Apr 6, 2010 at 06:39 AM.
#198
My wipers are the same as well...on both the 92 and the 95. Don't recall what the 88 has.
As for the leak try some of that other goop on there...I wish I could remember what it was called. you take the stuff and mix it like playdough and then stuff it in the hole. Someone has to know what I'm talking about.
As for the leak try some of that other goop on there...I wish I could remember what it was called. you take the stuff and mix it like playdough and then stuff it in the hole. Someone has to know what I'm talking about.
#199
Something like this...

One great product to handle two difficult repair jobs! This 10 minute repair epoxy is a steel epoxy in stick form that makes permanent repairs. Simply cut off the appropriate amount of product needed for the job, knead and apply to damaged fuel tank or radiator. Epoxy cures in 10 minutes. Seals small holes, leaks, and weak seams. Hardens like steel.
http://www.retrocycle.com/CustomChro...r___Epoxy.html

One great product to handle two difficult repair jobs! This 10 minute repair epoxy is a steel epoxy in stick form that makes permanent repairs. Simply cut off the appropriate amount of product needed for the job, knead and apply to damaged fuel tank or radiator. Epoxy cures in 10 minutes. Seals small holes, leaks, and weak seams. Hardens like steel.
http://www.retrocycle.com/CustomChro...r___Epoxy.html



