camdenbuck

2001 4runner had factory water pump and timing belt at 230k miles! Was doing the timing belt and Toyoman said do the water pump and tstat. He was right-it was ready. New water pump gasket is rubber/metal and the Toyoman said no sealer. I cleaned it the best I could but I am still ready to put a light coat of Hi Tack sealer (like Indian Head or Perma 062) on the block and the water pump for "insurance" purposes and torque it down. Tempted to hit it with a little 1000 to 1500 grit wet sandpaper too (the black stuff is not gasket material but discolored metal). Any suggestions on pros/cons? Would hate to put it all together and have to get to it again for a leak. Picture shows where I am so far.

New timing belt has marks to line up on cam and crank gear teeth. Many people are using paint marks...a little confused.
Lotta miles from the Toyoman out here.

Thank you in advance for any guidance.

rworegon

That's plenty clean. Wipe it down with a solvent (carb cleaner, etc) and you are good to go.

The rubber/metal gasket do not need for any other 'insurance'. They are well designed as they are work well. Do use a new thermostat gasket.

pruney81

That's definitely clean enough I wouldn't bother scuffing it up with anything, I think that would be overkill. You could probably put some kind of sealant on there if you wanted to, it won't hurt anything but probably not necessary.

When I did the water pump on my 22RE I put some permatex on there just to be safe like you said and whether it needed it or not, it hasn't leaked, but mine was a paper gasket though.

camdenbuck

Thanks for your prompt response.

I feel more at ease now. Don't like to go "half-baked" and find out there are second helpings of same.

I'm going to 1000 grit and then 1500 (both wet), dry and clean (brake parts cleaner) and torque it on! Will sleep better when it's done.

Cheers!

camdenbuck

No scruffing it is! Tomorrow after work, I will get on it with the cleaner and get the pump on it. Timing belt will be fun! You guys are awesome!

camdenbuck

Used Permatex Hi Tack sealer in a can with brush on the pump and the block to sandwich rubber/metal gasket as well as for the tstat housing/rubber seal. Torqued 7 bolts and 3 nuts to 14-15ish ft-lbs. Fingers crossed!

Now for the fun part! Paint or marks for exact reference? New belt has lines and I might have to with those...add pulley up top, pop on brlt, and take up slack and put hydraulic tensioner in last! Any tips here? Folks here have been a great resource. Thank you sooooo much.

rworegon

Use the actual scribed/punch marks.

Important: Driver side is LEFT, passenger side RIGHT - Toyota uses a reference as if you are sitting in the driver seat. See the cams gears even say so.

camdenbuck

I was planning on using the hard lines in the metal. The belt is labeled well. Thanks for the heads up on Left being Left. Can I just leave the crankshaft gear where it is?

rworegon

Crank looks good.

If you have not already, take a look at the FSM.....see my signature line.

camdenbuck

If it was daylight, I would be doing "big things." FSM is a great help! I see why the Toyoman said "while you're in there, you might as well..."

Thanks so much again. Folks at home think is this like an oil change. Been working on this after school (I teach high school) when I'm not coaching (baseball is almost over!).

rworegon

Oh, one more thing. Use a new thermostat and place the jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position.

Another...use a new crank bolt and be sure to get it torqued to 217 ft-lbs....any less and it may very well come loose.

Have you seen this?
http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...lt/timing.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...easure-249481/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

camdenbuck

Got the new bolt putting it on will be a last step.
The new belt came with marks and I used the FSM link to install it. Had to back up the crank a wee bit to get the belt mark lined up with the punch mark on the crank gear. After getting the belt on, I rotated the crank gear to take slack out. I am about to put in the tensioner and see how it lines up. I'll rotate it to see what it looks like with tensioner installed. Excitement!



BTW, Changed the isuzu pickup timing belt last weekend and installation was 10 minutes. Too funny.
Starting to think I like this stuff...

rworegon

Looking good! I use the soft jaw clamps on the cam/belt like you did with the clothes pins. They are good for the third and fourth hand.

When you rotate the crank 2 full revolutions clockwise, the scribed marks on the cams and the dot marked pink on the crank gear will be lined back up. If these all line back up you are good to go. The white marks on the belt will be shifted a tooth or two over, this is normal.

camdenbuck

A quick sandwich and I'm off to see the tensioner wizard! Compressing it very slowly in a clamp right now.

camdenbuck

You were right about the belt marks being off. The crank and cam marks are still on the money. Found a neat "chip" on the crank pulley. Is it brazed or welded? Hmmm...
I lightly sanded the goo off to see if it would eat belts but it looks like it may work. Hope it doesn't throw the engine off balance.



Should I:
a. have it machined
b. not sweat it and torque it on
c. buy a new one

Thinking: might throw the engine off balance...

rworegon

Others have ran that pulley with a chip if it does not chew into the belt. No way of really knowing until it's mounted up and running.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/c...lancer-215703/

Is the chip new or did a prior repair fall out? It may throw the balance off a tiny bit.

Those pulleys (harmonic balancer as Toyota calls it) are spendy new.

rworegon

I see you have it back together and running good. I saw your entry on the chipped harmonic balancer thread.

A great feeling to hear it start up and run perfect, isn't it?