Bobs4Runner

Just discovered that my harmonic balancer is chipped, inner lip. About 1/2" of the lip is missing, belt doesn't appear to be damaged. Is this something that I need to replace or is it ok the way it is?

bob

scuba

Replace the thing before the rest of it flys apart. I've seen pictures of a flywheel that came apart and went through the bellhousing and through the trans tunnel into the vehicle.. Scary

Bobs4Runner

Ok...I may be talking about the wrong pully. This one is at the bottom of the engine (3.4L). Its the Bottom pulley with (3) belt going to it. The chip doesn't appear to be new, doesn't look shiny, its rusted over.

j-man

thats not your flywheel - its just the crank pully - if its rusted and the belt isnt touching it - dont worry about it.

scuba

Actually. A chipped pulley can be bad as well. It can cause the balance of the crank to be thrown off (maybe what the harmonic balancer is for? not sure) and mess up bearings and junk inside.

Go get one from a boneyard and replace it.

EDIT: And a flywheel goes between the clutch disc/ pressure plate & the engine.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Title fixed.

Get that balancer replaced before it does more damage.

Bobs4Runner

Yea, may have to go to a junkyard to search for one. Its $330 for a new one. How hard it is to take apart and re-install?

profuse007

The best way to take off crank pulley is to use impact wrench. installation required a crank holder tool (not so special tool can be bought for ~40bucks) and torque wrench.

look at some timing belt DIY, anybody can do it.

scuba

Your answer lies in the post below.


There are PLENTY of write ups on how to change the timing belt on the 3.4, and pulling off that pulley is entitled in that job.

Here's the FSM. Most mechanical engine stuff is the same from Taco-4Runner.
http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/2003/index.html

brian2sun

If the pulley is chipped bad enough to throw it out of balance, then what will probably happen is over time the keyway will get rounded out, the timing will get messed up and the truck will start to run bad, then it will ruin the bearings and ultimately the crankshaft itself (which = new lower engine).

The crankshaft pulley is torqued to 217 ft lbs, so it's not exactly easy to R&R. To break it loose without special tools, one trick on the 22r (thanks to 4x4wire.com) is to put a socket on it with a breaker bar and wedge the handle against the Driver's side frame rail making sure it's out of the way of the radiator. Then disconnect the coil wire from the distributor and ground it so the engine won't fire up (which would be very bad if that happened). Then just bump the engine and it will break the bolt loose. I actually just did this last friday while replacing the timing cover on my buddy's '88 22RE and this method worked like a charm. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the 3.4, but I haven't tried it personally. Instead of grounding the coil wire though, you would disconnect the ignitor located on the pass. side fender for ther 3.4.

Getting it back on tight may be harder. On the 22RE, we were able to torque it back down once all the belts were back on and tight with just the resistance of the engine/belts. But, I'm not sure if there would be enough engine resistance to torque the 3.4's back to 217 ft lbs. - which is very important. There are a few threads out there where people didn't properly torque it back down and it ate up the keyway again. I don't know how much help this will be for you since I'm not sure how this trick works on a 3.4, but it's food for thought if nothing else.

rjaudi

I accidentally chipped my brand new crankshaft pulley while installing it. That pulley is about 10lbs and the chip was a couple of grams in weight. I installed it and have been driving fine for 30,000 miles. The choice is yours.

tunnelmotor99

If it only has a small chip, I would just let it roll. That little bit of missing metal shouldn't make any noticeable difference in the balance. Oh, and the comment about using the starter to break the bolt loose....YIKES

brian2sun

It's a common technique to break the bolt loose, just don't do it if you're not comfortable with your skills. Like I said I did it last friday and it worked perfectly and was much easier than renting tools or taking it to a shop and paying out the nose:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Bobs4Runner

I'll take a pic of it this weekend and post it. Its a small chip that looks like its been there awhile. The orignal put the new motor in it, so it could of happened then. I haven't messed with anything near there...knock on wood.

On a good side note, New front cross drilled rotors and pads came in...AND my ToyTec 3"OME Lift!!!!!!!!!!

gpcollen1

Bumping the engine is no big deal to break the bolt loose. I don't really see the need to do that though as making the tool to hold the pulley while you break the bolt costs less than 10 bucks using a 2x4 and some hardware. I would post the pic I have of mine but photobucket is acting up right now. I did repost the pic in a timing belt thread a few months back if you want to take a look.

eddieleephd

if you pull that pulley off you would see a metal balance weight where they balanced that part to avoid uneven wear however the choice is of course yours. I will not give to or take away from the possible damage that can be caused by this and will be increasing the whole time the engine is running.

Bobs4Runner

Finally was able to get pics on my semi free weekend. I don't think it looks that bad.

camdenbuck

I have a similar scenario except on the outside edge. I have checked and the belt doesn't seem to touch the edge.
Replace or reuse?

rworegon

If it was mine, I'd replace it just to be safe. About $305+shipping from online OEM dealers.

Napa Online, $268 Balkamp brand.
RockAuto has a Dorman brand for $180 or so...can't speak to quality.

camdenbuck

I'd buy the part. Went to the dealer today and the lead tech said to make sure the belt clears. Nowhere near touches this spot. He said the chip is negligible and since material is still there, it won't have an effect. He told me to make sure it was smooth. Bought a $60 torque wrench for that 217 ft-lb crank bolt tightening ceremony...(new bolt)

Now I have to get that grey goo that goes between the fan bracket and lower timing cover on water pump side.

Fiance says hurry up. I say slow and steady wins. Don't want to go in twice!

Thanks for all of your support!