Crankshaft and Camshaft Bolt Removal Tool
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Crankshaft and Camshaft Bolt Removal Tool
A question on how to remove the crank and cam bolts seems to come up fairly often and I have described the tool I made for the job several times, but to help with the search function I thought I'd make it a thread.
You can build a tool at home that makes the job of removing the bolts simple and quick. In picture 2, I drew a diagram of the tool showing the dimensions and layout. Picture 3 shows the tool in the crank bolt configuration ready to be bolted onto the crank pulley. Picture 1 shows the cam bolt removal configuration.
Materials:
- One 4-foot long piece of steel barstock. Cut one foot off to have a 3-foot and a 1-foot section. The barstock is 2 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick.
- One 3/8" x 1" bolt and nut, and 2 washers. Used to attach the two pieces of barstock. Grade 5 or 8.
- Two 7/16" x 2.5" bolts, 4 nuts, and 4 washers. Used in the cam configuration to go between the spokes of the cam pulley. Grade 8.
- Two 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm bolts and two washers. Used to bolt the tool to the crank pulley. Get grade 10.9 bolts and washers or they will bend the first time you use them and will have to be replaced each time. (I'm a slow learner on this one!)
Bolt the tool onto the crank pulley where the threaded holes (8mm x 1.25) are and it will hit either the floor or frame and stop the crank from turning while you remove or install and torque the crank bolt.
Install the two 7/16" bolts in the tool and it can be use to hold the cam pulley from turning while loosening or re-torquing the cam bolts. Place the bolts through the openings between the spokes of the pulley and then use a pipe on a breaker bar to loosen the cam bolt while you hold the tool to keep it from turning. Don't be surprised when the cam bolts make a sound like a gun going off when they break free--it's normal.
Take care and have a great day,
Bugs
You can build a tool at home that makes the job of removing the bolts simple and quick. In picture 2, I drew a diagram of the tool showing the dimensions and layout. Picture 3 shows the tool in the crank bolt configuration ready to be bolted onto the crank pulley. Picture 1 shows the cam bolt removal configuration.
Materials:
- One 4-foot long piece of steel barstock. Cut one foot off to have a 3-foot and a 1-foot section. The barstock is 2 inches wide and 1/4 inch thick.
- One 3/8" x 1" bolt and nut, and 2 washers. Used to attach the two pieces of barstock. Grade 5 or 8.
- Two 7/16" x 2.5" bolts, 4 nuts, and 4 washers. Used in the cam configuration to go between the spokes of the cam pulley. Grade 8.
- Two 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm bolts and two washers. Used to bolt the tool to the crank pulley. Get grade 10.9 bolts and washers or they will bend the first time you use them and will have to be replaced each time. (I'm a slow learner on this one!)
Bolt the tool onto the crank pulley where the threaded holes (8mm x 1.25) are and it will hit either the floor or frame and stop the crank from turning while you remove or install and torque the crank bolt.
Install the two 7/16" bolts in the tool and it can be use to hold the cam pulley from turning while loosening or re-torquing the cam bolts. Place the bolts through the openings between the spokes of the pulley and then use a pipe on a breaker bar to loosen the cam bolt while you hold the tool to keep it from turning. Don't be surprised when the cam bolts make a sound like a gun going off when they break free--it's normal.
Take care and have a great day,
Bugs
Last edited by bugs1961; 03-08-2010 at 07:16 PM.
The following users liked this post:
p2nder (06-28-2022)
#3
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Viva Las Vegas
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great idea!!
I just made this tool, and improved upon the design slightly. Where you drilled the 2 x 9/16" holes I drilled 2x smaller holes. Just large enough for the 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm bolts for the crank pully. This should help with the bending. I drilled the holes for the 7/16" about 1/2" inward.
Thanks for the idea!
I just made this tool, and improved upon the design slightly. Where you drilled the 2 x 9/16" holes I drilled 2x smaller holes. Just large enough for the 8mm x 1.25 x 40mm bolts for the crank pully. This should help with the bending. I drilled the holes for the 7/16" about 1/2" inward.
Thanks for the idea!
#5
Registered User
Ive made this tool before, works great.
But getting the crank bolt loose is easy if its still in the truck, and you have a manual, just put it in 5th with the e brake on.
But getting the crank bolt loose is easy if its still in the truck, and you have a manual, just put it in 5th with the e brake on.
#7
Registered User
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wish I'd done this when I did my t-belt. My method was fugly.
Small addition:
To break the bolts, use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and sockets (IIRC, 17mm on cam, 19mm on crank), and have a good cheater bar around. A 3/8" drive breaker (or adaptor) is NOT strong enough, and a 1/2" drive ratchet is NOT strong enough. Must be a 1/2" drive breaker bar and sockets, no less.
Small addition:
To break the bolts, use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and sockets (IIRC, 17mm on cam, 19mm on crank), and have a good cheater bar around. A 3/8" drive breaker (or adaptor) is NOT strong enough, and a 1/2" drive ratchet is NOT strong enough. Must be a 1/2" drive breaker bar and sockets, no less.
Last edited by betelnut; 03-08-2010 at 08:24 PM.
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX (BEANERTOWN USA)
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Hey guys just to let you know I didn't have to even fab that tool I gave it a shot with my brothers 1/2" Impact gun and it loosened both cam sprocket bolts like nothing with out the camsprocket moving at all was really surprised I thought that they weren't torqued on tight and maybe I was lucky so I tested the impact on spare 3.O motor with 190,xxx miles and still stock down to the original hdgskts and it loosend both cam bolts like nothing.
Last edited by n2o302; 03-11-2010 at 09:50 PM.
#14
Hey guys just to let you know I didn't have to even fab that tool I gave it a shot with my brothers 1/2" Impact gun and it loosened both cam sprocket bolts like nothing with out the camsprocket moving at all was really surprised I thought that they weren't torqued on tight and maybe I was lucky so I tested the impact on spare 3.O motor with 190,xxx miles and still stock down to the original hdgskts and it loosend both cam bolts like nothing.
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nevermind, I found the answer on the Internets. I feel like such a noob.
HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH
25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!
35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP!
45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
110 to 300 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!
35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP!
45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
110 to 300 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
#20
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Grew up in S.C.V, So Cal.....now in Hampstead, NC
Posts: 4,592
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts