Austin Marr

Ok so im kinda irritated because my truck isnt starting after i put everything back together. Im getting spark in all 6 cylinders and i know theyre getting fuel too because when i pulled the plugs they had gas on them. its cranking over and cranking over but not catching. Only when i let go of the key it spits and sputters then stops. It ran perfectly fine before the HG blew. Help would be greatly appreciated because my dad is pushing me to get it out of the garage. Thank You!

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

Check everything again, seems like you didn't get something hooked up correctly

rworegon

In another forum, a guy had the same issue with a 5vz-fe and cleaning and reseating the electrical connectors that were involved in the HG repair resolved his issue. Double check that the grounds are firmly attached.

Austin Marr

Thanks for all the good advice guys. What if the timing was off? that shouldnt cause a starting issue though right??? it would just cause it to run really rough??? also, on the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) there are stock notches in it which i lined up to the "0" marker on my timing scale, that means #1 is at TDC right? again thanks alot!

Sansocal

yeah my money is on your timing belt being off a tooth or two. If i remember correctly on my truck there was a notch on both the oil pump and crank pulley. Check out this thread to make sure you installed the timing belt correctly: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-pics-183911/

Sansocal

if the ignition timing is off, it will start but might run like crap. If the valve timing is off (timing belt) then it might not start or run REALLY rough.

Good luck on your project!

Austin Marr

I have spark and fuel now get this. I was squirting starter fluid in the intake chamber and my motor wasn't reacting to it. So I squirted some more in it. Well you know how there is a hose clamp that connects the intake hose to the intake box? It also t:s off to another box before it gets to the intake box. It has a hose clamp as well. Anyway it blew both of the clamps off of the intake hose!! It was extremly loud. I think I am 180 degrees out on my timing. Could it be that the exhaust valves are open when the intake valves are supposed to be open?

blake.nemitz

agree probably 180 off, if you pull your #1 plug out almost all the way just a couple threads hanging on and turn the motor over by hand and when you hear air hissing past the plug you know your on the compression stroke

Wrenchinjoe

Line up your crank and cam marks so that the engine should be at TDC, then pull the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointing @ 11:00 roughly (cylinder #1). If it is pointing at more like 4:00, then your distrubutor is 180 degrees off - an easy fix. Go back and reinstall the distributor per FSM.

Austin Marr

Thanks guys. I will try both and get back to you.

Austin Marr

ok so i pulled the distributor cap and #1 is at TDC. The rotor is at like 7:00. do i pull out the distributor and make sure it lands on 4????

Wrenchinjoe

No. Assuming your crank and cam marks are for sure lined up properly, and it sounds like you are sure about this, the engine is at TDC. At that point, your distributor rotor should be pointing to approx. 11:00. If it is not, remove the distributor and reinstall per FSM.

Austin Marr

ok i feel really stupid now....when i set the timing before i put everything back together i cranked the motor over by hand 2 revolutions to ensure nothing moved. nothing did so i put it all back together. then i began trying to start it. so i took the timing belt cover off tonight and both of the marks i made on the camshaft sprokets are facing at 6:00 not 12:00. Im sure if i fix that, that will fix the problem

-MUDSLINGER-

if it was at seven loosen the bolt that holds the disributor and turn till it hits 11:00, if you cant turn the ditributor to hit eleven then pull the distributor and turn one it one tooth, and slide back in. always turn the motor over by hand at least three times and recheck your timing befor ever cranking it over and risking pistons hiting valves, intern leads to bent valves cracked valve guids or worse. From the beginning it sounded like you 180 out if its firing and coming out the intake.

Wrenchinjoe

Not to be a stickler, but the 3vze is non-interference, the valves will not contact the pistons.

Austin Marr

GREAT NEWS! it was the distributor it was firing on cylinder 6 not cylinder 1. I turned the rotor (with the distributor out of the cam) to 11:00 and it the rotor landed dead on cylinder 1. It fired right up!!! THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP! this site is a life line!