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i think the hardest part was unplugging the connector, couldn’t get my fingers in there. the sender easily comes out using a socket, extension, and ratchet.
There you go. I remember now. (At that time, I thought the sender is on top of t-stat housing.) I'm gonna have to get the piggybacked fuel pressure gage out of the the way.
I went through everything you are experiencing. I replaced all parts of the cooling system and nothing changed much until I bought a two row CSF radiator and now it runs right where it should. Highest it's ever been on a long hill on a 90 degree day is halfway.
I think 80% of overheating problems are cause by the radiator. I first went through 2 Champion aluminum radiators and both leaked. A cheapy radiator from Autozone will work fine and they are around $100.00. Good luck...
...nothing changed much until I bought a two row CSF radiator and now it runs right where it should. ......
Tnx, Desertdog1.
Yes, a replacement radiator is next thing I'm looking into because that is the most onvious that is not ideal in my system, as mentioned in my build thread. Shopping now for either CSF or OEM.
...nothing changed much until I bought a two row CSF radiator and now it runs right where it should. ......
Tnx, Desertdog1.
Yes, a replacement radiator is next thing I'm looking into because that is the most obvious that is not ideal in my system, as mentioned in my build thread. Shopping now for either CSF or OEM.
You know, I bought this 3 row radiator from Ebay for 165 bucks, 6 years ago, and I thought I was taking a risk because it seemed too cheap. Well, It's been great. NO issues. And I have never had an overheating issue. So, thought I'd share my experience. And now it's even cheaper?? $125.. lol. (this looks to be same radiator, from different seller though) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Ra...gAAOSw-AFejna4
Earlier... " Radiator had signs thatThe Truck Shop at Miramar in San Diego re-used the old radiator and charged me for brand-new parts; Inlet port was dented, inlet hose was reused and 3 years after supposed replacement, radiator fins were already badly corroded (posted here)."
Thanks, Gevo! Checked it out but I do not like sending my money to the communist bully so I went for CSF in hopes that it was not made there; CSF started in India and has factories in various countries. Got it a few days ago from Summit Racing, and hoping to install next weekend.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 05-19-2020 at 10:25 AM.
Update (been busy at work although from home):
1) More recent temp reading problems (Raguvian's and SomedayJ's) were due to defective temp senders.
2) Each time I see needle pointing close to upper white line, Thermostat housing reads around 190°F. I think that's actually normal.
3) AC still runs at that elevated coolant temperature. AC is supposed to shutdown at a certain coolant temp. I haven't found exactly at what temp, yet.
Therefore, it makes the sender the most suspect.
The temp gage sender, a $25 part, is pretty hard to get to, would take time to do, would need me to top off coolant, etc. Lots of work so I want to have replacement on-hand and do it at the same time I replace the radiator that has seen better days (here).
I ordered replacement sender and my spark plugs from McGeorge Toyota, Thanks to Jimkola!
rad, i replaced my gauge sender without having to top off coolant. very little comes out when the old sender is removed, and the new one can be inserted and tightened without an issue. but, if you are replacing the radiator, that's a good time to do it.
purchased mine from rock auto, a standard motor products relabled part made in japan. could be the same as oem
... 3) AC still runs at that elevated coolant temperature. AC is supposed to shutdown at a certain coolant temp. I haven't found exactly at what temp, yet. ...
I think that's only true with the 3VZE and Automatic Transmission and 4wd. http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../2aircondi.pdf This manual is from '93, mine's a '94, and I don't know much about those '86 antiques. :^)
rad, i replaced my gauge sender without having to top off coolant. very little comes out when the old sender is removed...
Oh, that's right! Tstat would be closed so coolant from a higher level would not flow back to level of sender mount.
BTW, I saw seepage from dampening fluid of our fuel.pressure piggybacked on CSI - probably too much vibration and heat in there, and it is in the way so I'll remove it. I can always put it back if I suspect fuel issue.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 06-01-2020 at 05:10 PM.
i put my empty gauge (the glycerin leaked out) back in after a dry gauge failed. it’s been working fine for 5 or 6 months, which is longer than the dry gauge lasted.
rad, i replaced my gauge sender without having to top off coolant. very little comes out when the old sender is removed, and the new one can be inserted and tightened without an issue. but, if you are replacing the radiator, that's a good time to do it.
purchased mine from rock auto, a standard motor products relabled part made in japan. could be the same as oem
Interesting, my coolant gushed out like a fountain when I removed the sender. It's below the thermostat level so it would make sense that there's a lot of coolant there. The sensor (for the ECU) is after the thermostat so I didn't get a ton spilling out there though.
i put my empty gauge (the glycerin leaked out) back in after a dry gauge failed. it’s been working fine for 5 or 6 months, which is longer than the dry gauge lasted.
I'd like to eventually replace it with an electrical temp sender connected to digital gage on dash.
I just picked up a 4Runner SR5 cluster with the OPG and voltmeter for my truck. I figure after this whole experience, maybe it's better to have more gauges (with OEM senders) to see how the engine is doing.
Howdy, folks!
So... got my temp gage sender and am preparing to replace old sender and radiator.
I want to flush the system more thoroughly. In case there are heavy contaminants that have settled in low points, do you know lowest point in engine that I can drain?
TIA
Howdy, folks!
So... got my temp gage sender and am preparing to replace old sender and radiator.
I want to flush the system more thoroughly. In case there are heavy contaminants that have settled in low points, do you know lowest point in engine that I can drain?
TIA
good times ahead! I would think the lowest point is the petcock valve on the bottom drivers side of the radiator or just the bottom hose. If you mean the block there is a drain on the drivers side back by the hoses to the heater core.
05-01-2020, 10:37 PM
. I shoulda checked too!
