New rebuilt 22-re (85-95) **BLOWN**
#101
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One of them is probably a backup light switch detector, and the other one may be used as a shift light? I dont know. Ive never seen one come on in my truck but I know a lot of manual transmission vehicles have a light that blinks on when you are over revving in a certain gear (ie doing 40 in first...)
#102
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xxxtreme22r:looks like you did a good job lapping those valves, one piece of advise though when you put these back together into the head, you might want to double check it by "blue checking" the seating surfaces
I checked it out, and (only having a sharpie) did the best I could to check the newly replaced valve.
Heres what I'm seeing:
Its not seating correctly. For those who can't eye it, I tried to modify the pic a little to show what I'm talking about:
[between black dots: where valve should seat. Red Dots @ 12-4o'clock: marks above band, where it actually seats]
The gray area under those red dots is the band were the valve rubs away the ink because of contact.
So the valve only contacts about 33% of the seat. Looks like one more trip to machine shop.
Last edited by gbwsaw28; 08-19-2010 at 09:34 PM.
#103
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did you ever remove those valve seats at all? if so maybe they not sitting as they should, good thing you checked them though. nice idea on the sharpie thing. Also I would just try taking the valves and guides out and putting them back in, you never know, they might just go back in correctly. if that don't work I would definitely have the seats and valves cut.
#104
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Wow thats a good trick to keep in mind. I want to find a good used head that I can rebuild and do some work to bit by bit (wife doesnt like me spending all the money at once. )
#105
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Here is what a seating valve looks like using the sharpie trick:
See that "light blue" ban right above the dark (untouched) ink? Thats the valve seal. The rest looked good, except that one valve I had replaced.
See that "light blue" ban right above the dark (untouched) ink? Thats the valve seal. The rest looked good, except that one valve I had replaced.
#106
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I found an answer to my transmission wire questions, thanks to malteserunner
That hanging plastic connector? that goes to the hanging wire on the other side. Sometimes its the simple things...
The first pic is the 4wd indicator switch, and the second pic is the reverse light switch.
#107
wow.sorry man.I recently had a rebuilt put in.(22re) about three weeks ago.it makes this tapping noise at idle an when in first gear. i dont know what it is the machanic said its normal.anybody have a clue.
#109
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Are you familar with the 22re engine? Its a tappity tap tapper tap dancing machine... Has the rebuild always made this noise or is it new? Adjust valves would be my first thought.
But again, realize the 22re is a tapping beast
But again, realize the 22re is a tapping beast
Last edited by gbwsaw28; 08-24-2010 at 06:08 AM.
#111
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So cylinder head turned out to be a REAL PITA.... turns out those valve guides in the head (yeah, the one that broke +7) were original!!!!! They were completely out of spec. and worn.... and of course when valve guides are replaced the valve seats a lil different, and who knows on sealing at that point- AKA: valves/seats had to be cut.
The machinist also removed the cam to make it easier to move, and noticed one of the bolts were striped...after adding a helicoil the cam stopped spinning.... warped center cam journal......
had that bored out..
If I knew all this I would have just ordered a new head.
The machinist also removed the cam to make it easier to move, and noticed one of the bolts were striped...after adding a helicoil the cam stopped spinning.... warped center cam journal......
had that bored out..
If I knew all this I would have just ordered a new head.
Last edited by gbwsaw28; 08-30-2010 at 06:15 PM.
#112
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Wow...Fun for you. So I have a little problem of my own. Apparently the goober who owned my truck before me broke an exhaust manifold stud off flush with the head and just decided to leave it for me to find. It doesn't seem to be leaking too bad right now, not so much you notice really. I was going to put a header on it but I know that a header will leak pretty much no matter what. Especially since its an end stud. Any suggestions? I thought about drilling and using an "easy out" on it but I've had problems with that before...
#113
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Luckily I haven't had that problem yet.... *knocks on wood*
a quick search I find this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrQ3b_fvLzI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7ftJ...eature=related
but I don't think this is anything different then you already know
a quick search I find this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrQ3b_fvLzI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7ftJ...eature=related
but I don't think this is anything different then you already know
#114
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Thanks for the videos. Yeah I've been there and done all that. Im thinking either having a dealer or a machine shop do it for me and paying the money to have it done right.
#115
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Dropped the head off at the machine shop today. Probably get it back tomorrow. If it comes back all pretty and clean, I will post pics.
Since I couldn't find the tools to do it, I will have the shop spec the block and pistons and give the cylinders a quick hone.
Again:
Any input on what ring brand/type you guys have used would be much appreciated. Ive heard good things about NPR.
Since I couldn't find the tools to do it, I will have the shop spec the block and pistons and give the cylinders a quick hone.
Again:
Any input on what ring brand/type you guys have used would be much appreciated. Ive heard good things about NPR.
Not trying to steel your thread, PM me if you don't mind a few rookie rebuild questions? thx great thread...!
#116
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No worries. Just my opinion, but unless you have access to tools or plan to build a couple engines, I would suggest taking it to a machine shop to have spec'd out... They have the knowledge, insight, and well.... TOOLS!!!
#117
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well i've always been a really good 22re "parts replacer"... figure out what's wrong and replace whatever was broken as long as it was on or just under the skin of the motor for about 10 years and 3 engines. scored a good craiglist deal on a blown head gasket from a spoiled brat high school kid who's dad just bought him a new one. $100 for the long block and intake up to include the throttle body. I got all excited and broke it all down and took the block in and had it cleaned up and checked for cracks and they said it was great and probably never rebuilt before.... then got side tracked with other stuff.
Now I don't know where to start to get going again.....
Now I don't know where to start to get going again.....
#118
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Well you definately need to figure out if the cylinders need to be bored out or just honed. After that you should have your crank looked at and figure out if it needs to be turned and all that good stuff. After that you can start looking at pistons, rings, bearings and all that other stuff that needs to be really specific. Probably should just buy a new camshaft since everythings torn down and then that way you can pick your powerband. Thats just some good first steps I suppose.
#119
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Want me to grab some buds with torches and lead pipes and provide some education?
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