New rebuilt 22-re (85-95) **BLOWN**
07-11-2010, 10:55 AM
#62
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True. I had to get rid of a few toys, I've had 4 more 2nd gen trucks and 1st gen 4runners since then so its not all bad.
07-11-2010, 03:23 PM
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removing crankshaft to take block to machine shop to check proper bore and piston size, and to hone the cylinders. Still not sure what hone to suggest or ask for for some non-Cast rings...
Main bearings:
Notice the last two:
They are pretty inexpensive, so replacing them would definitely be worth my time.
(since this has been "re-manufactured", how do i tell what size i need?)
and just a Pic of a beautiful crankshaft on a dollar store towel
Main bearings:
Notice the last two:
They are pretty inexpensive, so replacing them would definitely be worth my time.
(since this has been "re-manufactured", how do i tell what size i need?)
and just a Pic of a beautiful crankshaft on a dollar store towel
Last edited by gbwsaw28; 07-11-2010 at 03:36 PM.
07-13-2010, 06:08 AM
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I just did a re-ring job with Rock rings about 1500 miles ago. I did the job without removing the engine. I also put in a new a head and timing set. Anyway, now it's using a quart of oil every 200 miles or so.
I did a light hone using a drill powered hone. That could very well be the reason why the rings haven't seated correctly. I think I'm going to redo the job using cast iron rings. I'm giving it a few more miles to see if the oil consumption will go down first.
I did a light hone using a drill powered hone. That could very well be the reason why the rings haven't seated correctly. I think I'm going to redo the job using cast iron rings. I'm giving it a few more miles to see if the oil consumption will go down first.
07-14-2010, 05:30 PM
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make sure the valves seat proper after checking
for the valve seal tap them with a hammer on top to reseat the valves
sure looks like some one must have forgot to put a valve stem seal in there
or maybe valve guide slop?.
has to be a seal look at the oil coming from from the valves in some of the pics..
that says it all...maybe examine the head really good to for cracks..doubt that though..
for the valve seal tap them with a hammer on top to reseat the valves
sure looks like some one must have forgot to put a valve stem seal in there
or maybe valve guide slop?.
has to be a seal look at the oil coming from from the valves in some of the pics..
that says it all...maybe examine the head really good to for cracks..doubt that though..
07-17-2010, 06:38 PM
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pretty much done with cleaning the head. Lets do some compare/contrast:
Next i will be lapping the valves, to insure I have a seal.
Any pros/cons to smoothing out the intake port (like porting a head, w/o going to increase size)? it's pretty rough cast aluminum, and I've read smoothing that out can help.
Next i will be lapping the valves, to insure I have a seal.
Any pros/cons to smoothing out the intake port (like porting a head, w/o going to increase size)? it's pretty rough cast aluminum, and I've read smoothing that out can help.
07-17-2010, 07:00 PM
#72
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didn't you have the head sent to a machine shop? they should have cleaned it up all nice and such inside and out?
i'd have to go back and have a talk with them about that......
i'd have to go back and have a talk with them about that......
07-18-2010, 09:36 PM
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they did run it through the wash once. considering I only paid 30 bucks, that pretty much covers a quick wash plus a seal install.
And more crap I've found but have forgotten to mention about the "quality re-manufacture" of this engine:
Whats wrong with this picture?
Oh, and this random piece of hard rubber I found floating around the head:
And more crap I've found but have forgotten to mention about the "quality re-manufacture" of this engine:
Whats wrong with this picture?
Oh, and this random piece of hard rubber I found floating around the head:
07-19-2010, 03:42 AM
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I'm wondering, previous post here stated that new pistons and chrome rings seated, while re-using pistons (with in spec) and chrome rings had problems. Does the channel the rings sit in have anything to do with it? Assuming that a new piston has the factory clearance and the ring fits in snug (up and down clearance), wouldn't over time (200K miles) wear that out some, so the new ring might have more room and is not held in (up and down motion) which might cause it not to seat? Just a thought, trying to wrap my head around why straight from the factory chrome top ring lasts so long but will not seat when replaced after a rebuild?
I've only rebuilt a few engines (2) and not a toyota (yet) might this winter if I get the right project. so I'm following this close like every one else. Great job so far, really hanging in till the end.
I've only rebuilt a few engines (2) and not a toyota (yet) might this winter if I get the right project. so I'm following this close like every one else. Great job so far, really hanging in till the end.
07-19-2010, 06:24 AM
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I would definately go for the Port/Polish Idea. Smoothing out your intake and exhaust runners is always a good Idea. I worked for a performance shop in Great Falls, MT for a while and the Owner had a Charger with 440 that he took to the drag strip. He made a few runs with it and pulled the heads just to have his lead mechanic spend a few hours griding down the casting imperfections with a dremel tool. He said it did make a difference though...but thats a 440 and this is a 22re not exactly the same. As long as you dont make any horrible mistakes, like gouging something out...its worth it. And while you are at it, you might as well port your exhaust and intake manifolds as well. I know there are some good internet tutorials out there for newbs.
07-19-2010, 06:20 PM
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In fact, within intake systems, the surface is usually deliberately textured to a degree of uniform roughness to encourage fuel deposited on the port walls to evaporate quickly. A rough surface on selected areas of the port may also alter flow by energizing the boundary layer, which can alter the flow path noticeably, possibly increasing flow. This is similar to what the dimples on a golf ball do. Flow bench testing shows that the difference between a mirror finished port and a rough textured port is typically less than 1%.
So from what I can tell.... Porting (increasing/changing the bore of the ports) will increase power because of a greater cubic inches(more air/fuel = more power), versus polishing(smoothing of the port surface) doesn't really make much of a difference. If thats the case, then I will skip out:
Porting is advanced stuff. Not only is crucial experience and understanding of airflow needed, but professional tools. Don't forget about accidentally grinding into a water jacket and ruining a head!
polishing is labor intensive and doesn't seem to do much (give & take).
while I did smooth out the exhaust ports, I did so because a smoother surface/less surface area will hopefully make it harder for carbon to buildup.
Last edited by gbwsaw28; 07-19-2010 at 07:32 PM.
07-20-2010, 06:04 AM
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Yeah You are probably correct there. Well if the head has been hot tanked and is really clean, has fresh valves with good seats and seals, then Im sure everything will turn out great.
