Advice on buying a 2nd Gen (89) 4runner
#1
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Advice on buying a 2nd Gen (89) 4runner
I searched!
After 3 yrs im finally getting back into another Toyota!! It's an 89 that im probably going to buy this weekend. I havent seen it yet, but I do plan on taking it somewhere to get it checked out by a mechanic before i purchase it.
My old one was a 93 with the 3.0 which i am very familiar, but this will be the first time ive even seen the earlier body style up close. I dont see many around my part of town.
Could someone enlighten me on anything that would help me point out something that isnt right?
Any secrets or obvious places to check?
Any advice?
It is a 3.0 5spd with 160,xxx miles and very clean.
Thanks guy
After 3 yrs im finally getting back into another Toyota!! It's an 89 that im probably going to buy this weekend. I havent seen it yet, but I do plan on taking it somewhere to get it checked out by a mechanic before i purchase it.
My old one was a 93 with the 3.0 which i am very familiar, but this will be the first time ive even seen the earlier body style up close. I dont see many around my part of town.
Could someone enlighten me on anything that would help me point out something that isnt right?
Any secrets or obvious places to check?
Any advice?
It is a 3.0 5spd with 160,xxx miles and very clean.
Thanks guy
#2
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if its a 89 it will be the same body style as the 2nd Gen pickup with the removable hard top. And ifs. On these the big rust places you need to watch are the tailgate. You can't by a aftermarket replacement. And the frame on the inside butting up to the gas tank.
#3
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Please find a mechanic that works on Toyota`s for the most.
When was the timing belt done ??
How long ago were the head gaskets done??
Is this a local vehicle or did it come down from the great rust belt.
Figure on spending another $1000.00 plus just catching up on Maintenance.
When was the timing belt done ??
How long ago were the head gaskets done??
Is this a local vehicle or did it come down from the great rust belt.
Figure on spending another $1000.00 plus just catching up on Maintenance.
Last edited by wyoming9; 02-17-2015 at 01:41 PM.
#4
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Thanks for the advice!
Ill be sure to ask about the head gaskets and the timing belt and look for the rust.
Ive never completely respected the head gasket issues because my last 3.0 went 350,xxx miles on the stock head gasket and still ran very well
It has not been exposed to the snow, but has been exposed to salt air.
The only thing that doesnt work on it is the rear window, but the top has never been taken off before. Any ideas if this will be an easy fix?
Any other advice?!
Thanks
Ill be sure to ask about the head gaskets and the timing belt and look for the rust.
Ive never completely respected the head gasket issues because my last 3.0 went 350,xxx miles on the stock head gasket and still ran very well
It has not been exposed to the snow, but has been exposed to salt air.
The only thing that doesnt work on it is the rear window, but the top has never been taken off before. Any ideas if this will be an easy fix?
Any other advice?!
Thanks
#5
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Usually the rear window not working is the switch or relay box located behind the drivers seat in the side panel. In my 88 runner build link below on the first page a have quite a bit of info on the tail gate.
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#8
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Thanks for the info guys. The seller didnt call me back in two days so im pretty restless right now.
I told him i have the cash and he said i would be the first to see it, but the idea of losing this is stressing me out. Im supposed to buy it this Saturday. Wish me luck!!
I told him i have the cash and he said i would be the first to see it, but the idea of losing this is stressing me out. Im supposed to buy it this Saturday. Wish me luck!!
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Don't get too excited for it, that is how you end up buying something you are pissed about a week later.
Yeah the V6's only had HG issues for a few years but it tainted the whole name of the 3.0. I have also known a few people with 300,000 miles on their 3.0's.
Yeah the V6's only had HG issues for a few years but it tainted the whole name of the 3.0. I have also known a few people with 300,000 miles on their 3.0's.
#10
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Thanks for the info guys. The seller didnt call me back in two days so im pretty restless right now.
I told him i have the cash and he said i would be the first to see it, but the idea of losing this is stressing me out. Im supposed to buy it this Saturday. Wish me luck!!
I told him i have the cash and he said i would be the first to see it, but the idea of losing this is stressing me out. Im supposed to buy it this Saturday. Wish me luck!!
Get your money together but be willing to walk away. If you are emotionally invested in the truck you could make a huge mistake. I looked at an '88 X Cab a couple of months ago that had a great body and interior but I poked MY FINGER through a frame rail. We didn't bother to drive it or even start the engine.
#11
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Schnayke and Nervo - Great advice! I definitely have my guard up, i guess you can say that im excited on the idea of there being NO red flags when i inspect it. So far he has sold me on the idea that there is nothing wrong with it, but if i see anything that taints the image that i have in my head of what i think its going to be like, its going to be a much tougher sale for him haha.
Nervo - I have subscribed to your 89 4runner build!
So what we have so far:
Ask about the timing belt and head gasket replacements
Check for rust
Tailgate, Frame rail against the gas tank, rear fenders, under spare tire.
Can it be rusting underneath the paint, but you just cant see it? With a careful eye, can rust be spotted?
Any other advice?
Nervo - I have subscribed to your 89 4runner build!
So what we have so far:
Ask about the timing belt and head gasket replacements
Check for rust
Tailgate, Frame rail against the gas tank, rear fenders, under spare tire.
Can it be rusting underneath the paint, but you just cant see it? With a careful eye, can rust be spotted?
Any other advice?
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#17
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Well I met with the guy and purchased it!! Still need to get it checked out by a mechanic, but im very happy with it. Rides steady and straight on the interstate. Interior is almost perfect.
It has an oil leak coming from the rear main seal so he dropped the price $500
It sits about an inch and a half lower in the front and i HAVE to get it leveled. I can't stand it sagging in the front, plus it rubs bad.
I have a lot of plans for it and things i want to change, but thats the fun part
It feels so good to be driving a Toyota again!
Here are some pictures
It has an oil leak coming from the rear main seal so he dropped the price $500
It sits about an inch and a half lower in the front and i HAVE to get it leveled. I can't stand it sagging in the front, plus it rubs bad.
I have a lot of plans for it and things i want to change, but thats the fun part
It feels so good to be driving a Toyota again!
Here are some pictures
Last edited by RoBatt; 03-20-2015 at 08:49 AM.
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Nice looking rig! As for the rear window, when I got my '86 it didn't work. While checking the relay in the driver side panel I found there was no main power coming to it from the fuse block (larger diameter wire, can't remember color).
There's a large wiring connector with many wires passing through it from the fuse block to the rest of the harness, right in there by the fuse block. My problem was a corroded connection in that connector block - the terminal connectors for the rear gate glass main power circuit inside that connector were corroded. I clipped the wires from either side of the connector and reconnected them outside of the connector block and that was my fix.
Something else to check would be the switch that disables the rear glass mechanism when the top is off. One of the LH side rear mounting bolts for the top, its tip, contacts a switch inside the panel as you screw it down through the captured nut, which disconnects power to the tail gate. If there's no bolt in that one hole that could be the cause. Or is there supposed to be a special bolt for that hole? Can't recall . . .
Oh yeah, I'd be checking under those aftermarket rear fender flares for rusty stuff. The only rust in my '86 was under the factory rear wheel arch trim and plastic rock guards. Rocker and front wheel arch trim removal revealed no rust - only under the rear arch trim. I always take that crap off. It's only good for holding in dirt and moisture.
There's a large wiring connector with many wires passing through it from the fuse block to the rest of the harness, right in there by the fuse block. My problem was a corroded connection in that connector block - the terminal connectors for the rear gate glass main power circuit inside that connector were corroded. I clipped the wires from either side of the connector and reconnected them outside of the connector block and that was my fix.
Something else to check would be the switch that disables the rear glass mechanism when the top is off. One of the LH side rear mounting bolts for the top, its tip, contacts a switch inside the panel as you screw it down through the captured nut, which disconnects power to the tail gate. If there's no bolt in that one hole that could be the cause. Or is there supposed to be a special bolt for that hole? Can't recall . . .
Oh yeah, I'd be checking under those aftermarket rear fender flares for rusty stuff. The only rust in my '86 was under the factory rear wheel arch trim and plastic rock guards. Rocker and front wheel arch trim removal revealed no rust - only under the rear arch trim. I always take that crap off. It's only good for holding in dirt and moisture.
Last edited by Mr. No SPAM; 03-20-2015 at 05:20 PM.
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