22RE rebuild: Hard to turn over and slight cylinder scratching
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
22RE rebuild: Hard to turn over and slight cylinder scratching
I've been searching on the forums now for a few hours and havent came up with anything so im starting this thread...
Heres my problem....
Im in the middle of rebuilding my 22re. I just finished installing the crank and pistons, everything went well so i thought. Once i went to turn the motor just to check and make sure everything was fine, i noticed that the cylinder walls have very faint scratches.(see pictures) also it is nearly impossible to turn over by hand. You need a wrench.I used assembly lube,perhaps maybe too much??? I was also thinking maybe i put the rod caps on backwards. Im not too sure if i did or not as the markings i made got washed over during cleaning . Hopefully someone has some type of solution or answer for me....
Thanks, Hellvision
Heres my problem....
Im in the middle of rebuilding my 22re. I just finished installing the crank and pistons, everything went well so i thought. Once i went to turn the motor just to check and make sure everything was fine, i noticed that the cylinder walls have very faint scratches.(see pictures) also it is nearly impossible to turn over by hand. You need a wrench.I used assembly lube,perhaps maybe too much??? I was also thinking maybe i put the rod caps on backwards. Im not too sure if i did or not as the markings i made got washed over during cleaning . Hopefully someone has some type of solution or answer for me....
Thanks, Hellvision
#3
Registered User
did you plastigauge the bearing clearances?
is the crank bearing races centered in the block from the front and rear?
caps look correct.
the scratches are from the rings against the wals. did you put a light layer of oil on the cyl walls when you put the rods/pistons in? did you make sure the rings were installed with the correct sides up and clocked in the correct positions?
is the crank bearing races centered in the block from the front and rear?
caps look correct.
the scratches are from the rings against the wals. did you put a light layer of oil on the cyl walls when you put the rods/pistons in? did you make sure the rings were installed with the correct sides up and clocked in the correct positions?
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: May 2010
Location: People's Republic of California
Posts: 720
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
12 Posts
I can only give some insight on the crank only turning with a wrench...did you read these posts yet? I now have 8,000 since rebuild and running perfectly.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...urning-246588/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eizing-249696/
I have no info on the scratches you have, didn't encounter that, but I would check the piston ring install as previously mentioned.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...urning-246588/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...eizing-249696/
I have no info on the scratches you have, didn't encounter that, but I would check the piston ring install as previously mentioned.
Last edited by Grego92; 05-07-2013 at 06:57 PM.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fairfield, CA
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no i did not plastigauge.. what exactly does that measure? i got a crank and bearings kit so i would hope that it came with the right size bearings. I feel alot better about the hard turning now that i read that other thread... THANK YOU!!!! I also talked to a gentlemen that used to own a machine shop and rebuilt alot of 22re motors and he said that the scratches in the cylinder are common in these engines with new ring installs. So i think im just going to throw it back together and see how it goes...... or should i take more precaution going into this???
#6
Registered User
Plastigauage measures the incredibly small clearances between your crankshaft and caps, your rods and its caps. If the clearance is not perfect at best your oil pressure will suck and at worst your engine will seize.
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
^^ What he said. You can't skip sizing your rings and bearings. You'll need to start over and micrometer the parts and such. Or just roll the dice and change your oil and filter often untill it quits shedding metal flakes and hope it doesn't seize.
I don't recommend that second option.
In the off chance your machinist did the measuring and ordered your parts.. You're lacking proper lube and may have damaged a ring on insertion.
I don't recommend that second option.
In the off chance your machinist did the measuring and ordered your parts.. You're lacking proper lube and may have damaged a ring on insertion.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
skoti89
Offroad Tech
3
07-08-2015 12:05 AM
skoti89
Off Road Trip Planning, Expeditions, Trips, & Events
0
07-06-2015 07:45 PM