L5wolvesf

This question seems to have been asked a lot but answered without a “happy/easy” (IMO) answer regarding the tach power wire. Some folks have said go to: 1) the ECU or 2) the wiring by the driver’s side kick panel or 3) the clock wiring. I like the clock wiring idea but pulling the dash (speedo cable etc) is a bit more than I feel like doing – unless I absolutely have to. But while I have the steering wheel trim off (for my heater repairs) I see a bunch of potentially easy to access wires that are very close to where the tach is going to be.

Then I remembered what “The Guru of Toyota Wiring” Ray (a.k.a. RAD4) mentioned regarding ignition switches and starter relays in our older Toyotas. Power, as in 12 volts I presume, is routed through the ignition switch which is what prematurely “ages” our switches and creates the need to install a starter relay. Presuming that power is still there (after having installed a starter relay in my ole Toy) why can’t I just run a relatively short distance from my tach (with the typically red power wire) to the power wire that goes to the steering column?

If my presumptions here are correct my next question would be . . . which wire is it? I would love to see a picture of it.

Thanks all.

RAD4Runner

LOL!

starter relay current (approx 12Amps) only punishes the ST1 contact. Other IGN SW contacts should be OK.

Why SHOULD you?
Because it's the most logical place; tach works with igniter and should only be on when IGN is on, so IG2 is best place to take power for tach from.
Not sure what color it is on your truck but it's B-R on 1988. Verify that it ha 12V only when IGN is on.

L5wolvesf

Ah HA! ! ! Ray, in his shiny black wetsuit, to the rescue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RAD4Runner

LOL!

starter relay current (approx 12Amps) only punishes the ST1 contact. Other IGN SW contacts should be OK.


Why SHOULD you?

I was thinking to myself . . . “How can I help Ray help me?” Well a picture (a.k.a. 1000 words) of course. So, as you were posting this I played twister and got into (and more importantly out of) a position to take the pic below.

Logic . . . one of those words I love to hear. I probably shouldn’t get into some of the other ones I like to hear in case someone's children are reading this.

Anyway, you’re saying it could be a brown wire – of which I saw 3 on the other side of the pictured connector. So, I’m gonna take an Advil and re-pretzel myself to see what I have on the truck and what my Haynes manual says. And, my trusty HF meter shall be in hand too. Stay tuned.

L5wolvesf

Annnd, we’re back. With the column trim off the Ignition Switch’s contacts are bare nekkit and labeled so I verified that there is 12 volts at IG2 when the key is on and 0 volts with the key off. Then further down to where the pictured connector is the wire turns to Black w/red so I tested that and it is the same. I’ll be able to work with that wire easily and without tearing the Ign Sw pigtail and protective cover apart. Does this sound about right?

FWIW, I can’t really trust the Haynes wiring diagram here because it covers 1979 to 1995 and only designates “early” and “late” models, but does not indicate where the break point is. It also shows a starter relay which mine did not come with.

Now, as far as making the connection goes. Given the space limitations and ease of installation my first thought was a Scotch Clip. Is there a better, but similarly easy to install option? If I had better room to work I would have more options.

Sidebar: I also discovered that 3 of the 4 bolts that hold the turn sig and wiper stalks to the column were very loosy goosy. Could it be that 30 plus years of rattling shook them loose?

RAD4Runner

Do I see...
Brown-Red, Blue-Red, Brown-Yellow, (what's right-most wire?)?

Sounds good.
BTW, if you see "Pin 7" somewhere, that's added affirmation.

I don't trust "vampire" taps; they suck.
On MY truck, to tap from along a straight wire. I take some Advil, carefully strip about 3/8" of insulation from main wire, making sure I do not cut any strand, wrap stripped wire of my tap completely around the exposed main wire, then solder.

L5wolvesf

From left to right you see: Brown/red, Blue/red, Black/yellow, Black/white. If I were Ansel Adams would you be asking this question?

No pin numbers on the connector.

OK Igor I get it. Yes vampire connectors suck and they sure aren’t the preferred choice. So I did a search about alternatives to ScotchLoks. The only thing I found, besides soldering, yes soldering would be the best but far from easiest in this case (see my Advil comment below), is CAREFULLY pre-slit the insulation you’re tapping into to get a better connection. I’m gonna give that a good look-see. I’ll also look at the “vampire” to see if I can help it . . . help me.

I think between my g/f, my Toyota, Fiat, VW and Subaru, and now you, you’re all conspiring to make me an Advil junkie.

RAD4Runner

OOPS, Sorry about wire colors (Again, not sure how it goes on your year), but on 1988 22RE...

JohnnyCanuck

Solder and heatshrink, glad Rad beat me to it, those vampire connectors are lazy and prone to failure. I love my butane solder iron.

L5wolvesf

No sorry necessary I was just kidding around. Thank you for the test pages.

L5wolvesf

Thanks for the input. Yes, I should solder etc if this were a necessary install I would. But I haven't had a tach for years in this truck so it is more like an interesting luxury.

JohnnyCanuck

L5wolvesf

Appreciate the thought. I'll be good here.

RAD4Runner

I don't have a tach, either. Would like to get one someday. For now I drive by feel and hearing... Eyes closed - LOL!
I stay well within recommended max speed at each gear (in user's manual).
Shifting seems smoother when I upshift toward what feels/sounds like approaching upper range of RPM for the speed.

L5wolvesf

Hey! It's hard to keep you're eyes open when you're going slow.

The tach I have was in a box of parts I found while doing some "early" spring cleaning. When I sell this truck maybe it will impress someone.