Toyota Full Floaters
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Toyota Full Floaters
What Toyota rigs come factory with rear full floaters and disc brakes?
I know that the FZJ 80's did, but what else? The new FJ Cruisers?
I was thinking it would be cool to get a full float Diamond housing with a 8.4" center, and run FZJ ff hubs and disc brakes or whatever else is ff.
That would be bomb proof!
Thanks
I know that the FZJ 80's did, but what else? The new FJ Cruisers?
I was thinking it would be cool to get a full float Diamond housing with a 8.4" center, and run FZJ ff hubs and disc brakes or whatever else is ff.
That would be bomb proof!
Thanks
Last edited by 914runner; 05-08-2006 at 07:16 PM.
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I believe the fzj 80s had an off set diff to the passagers side. I dont think you couldnt use it unless you have alot of fab. I could be wrong :pat: I thought the 2wd 1Ton had a floater in the rear of that but drum brakes. Not to sure though.
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the 4x2 1 tons had full floaters with an odd bolt pattern set up for dual rear wheels. you can put a set of wheel hubs from a solid front axle or IFS on though and have the standard 6 lug toy pattern.
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Originally Posted by Yotaboy
I believe the fzj 80s had an off set diff to the passagers side. I dont think you couldnt use it unless you have alot of fab. I could be wrong :pat: I thought the 2wd 1Ton had a floater in the rear of that but drum brakes. Not to sure though.
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Originally Posted by Napoleon047
the 4x2 1 tons had full floaters with an odd bolt pattern set up for dual rear wheels. you can put a set of wheel hubs from a solid front axle or IFS on though and have the standard 6 lug toy pattern.
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Want to say 93 and later 80 Series cruisers, maybe earlier.
Napoleon is right too, gosh.
FROR also sells a full float kit so when you get the housing, the brackets are welded on instead of being bolt on.
If I were building a built Toy rear with mostly off the shelf bits, I would use the 8.8 diff in a semi float application. I am still not convinced full float axles are strong in the way a rock truck needs them to be when compared to semi float chromo.
FWIW, I have a Diamond rear with a stock 8" diff and Poly Performance shafts. The truck is not on the trail, but my impression is the diff will crap long before the shafts.
Napoleon is right too, gosh.
FROR also sells a full float kit so when you get the housing, the brackets are welded on instead of being bolt on.
If I were building a built Toy rear with mostly off the shelf bits, I would use the 8.8 diff in a semi float application. I am still not convinced full float axles are strong in the way a rock truck needs them to be when compared to semi float chromo.
FWIW, I have a Diamond rear with a stock 8" diff and Poly Performance shafts. The truck is not on the trail, but my impression is the diff will crap long before the shafts.
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Want to say 93 and later 80 Series cruisers, maybe earlier.
Napoleon is right too, gosh.
FROR also sells a full float kit so when you get the housing, the brackets are welded on instead of being bolt on.
If I were building a built Toy rear with mostly off the shelf bits, I would use the 8.8 diff in a semi float application. I am still not convinced full float axles are strong in the way a rock truck needs them to be when compared to semi float chromo.
FWIW, I have a Diamond rear with a stock 8" diff and Poly Performance shafts. The truck is not on the trail, but my impression is the diff will crap long before the shafts.
Napoleon is right too, gosh.
FROR also sells a full float kit so when you get the housing, the brackets are welded on instead of being bolt on.
If I were building a built Toy rear with mostly off the shelf bits, I would use the 8.8 diff in a semi float application. I am still not convinced full float axles are strong in the way a rock truck needs them to be when compared to semi float chromo.
FWIW, I have a Diamond rear with a stock 8" diff and Poly Performance shafts. The truck is not on the trail, but my impression is the diff will crap long before the shafts.
Im just planning out what I want to do for my ultimate buildup. So I want a full float rear, so if I do break a shaft, I dont have to remove the whole wheel and everything to replace the shaft. Also the spare shafts are easier to pack as they dont have a flange on the end like semi-floats.
Thanks
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I was also looking more into that FROR kit. It has the bonus of having more parts in common with a SA front end for fewer spares if you were to carry extra hubs and such.
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