Coil Spacers
#1
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Coil Spacers
I have a 92 4runners sr5 4x4, I would like just a bit more clearance but a body lift is out of the question due to my brush gaurd. I've seen tons of rear coil spacers from 1/2'' on up to 3'' but none for the front. Does anybody know where I can get like a 1'' front coil spacer set?
#2
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I would go ahead and spend the extra $90 and get a 1.5 taller coil. With a spacer you still have the weak suspension in the rear. If you upgrade to a new coil you get a firmer ride and better towing capability. good luck
#3
Re: Coil Spacers
Originally posted by 4x4Lamm
I have a 92 4runners sr5 4x4, I would like just a bit more clearance but a body lift is out of the question due to my brush gaurd. I've seen tons of rear coil spacers from 1/2'' on up to 3'' but none for the front. Does anybody know where I can get like a 1'' front coil spacer set?
I have a 92 4runners sr5 4x4, I would like just a bit more clearance but a body lift is out of the question due to my brush gaurd. I've seen tons of rear coil spacers from 1/2'' on up to 3'' but none for the front. Does anybody know where I can get like a 1'' front coil spacer set?
#4
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Man I am a tard I did not realize that you wanted a front coil spacer. I was talking about a rear! Either way that is correct you have torsion bars. Crank them up but do not crank them unless you have manual or ADD hubs. Standard would be 14.5 to 15 from top of wheel to bottom of fender. Stay around that and you should be safe.
#5
Originally posted by AbramHart
Crank them up but do not crank them unless you have manual or ADD hubs.
Crank them up but do not crank them unless you have manual or ADD hubs.
#6
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Originally posted by CTB
Actually, you really only want to crank them if you have manual hubs. ADD hubs are what come on the rig originally. You want to keep your CV angles as level as possible with ADD hubs.
Actually, you really only want to crank them if you have manual hubs. ADD hubs are what come on the rig originally. You want to keep your CV angles as level as possible with ADD hubs.
#7
Originally posted by AbramHart
Actually there are 3 types of system.. ADD, Manual, and automatic locking. Automatic you do not want to turn those up as they have muliple mechanical parts in them and lock in when they are needed automaticly. ADD hubs are just like a manual the only difference is the Manual you can lock and unlock the Add stays locked all the time. Add has a device built into the 3rd member that locks it in and out. The actuall hub is a steel cap with splines cut in it so yes you can turn these up without worring to much about them.
Actually there are 3 types of system.. ADD, Manual, and automatic locking. Automatic you do not want to turn those up as they have muliple mechanical parts in them and lock in when they are needed automaticly. ADD hubs are just like a manual the only difference is the Manual you can lock and unlock the Add stays locked all the time. Add has a device built into the 3rd member that locks it in and out. The actuall hub is a steel cap with splines cut in it so yes you can turn these up without worring to much about them.
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#8
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Originally posted by AbramHart
Actually there are 3 types of system.. ADD, Manual, and automatic locking. Automatic you do not want to turn those up as they have muliple mechanical parts in them and lock in when they are needed automaticly. ADD hubs are just like a manual the only difference is the Manual you can lock and unlock the Add stays locked all the time. Add has a device built into the 3rd member that locks it in and out. The actuall hub is a steel cap with splines cut in it so yes you can turn these up without worring to much about them.
Actually there are 3 types of system.. ADD, Manual, and automatic locking. Automatic you do not want to turn those up as they have muliple mechanical parts in them and lock in when they are needed automaticly. ADD hubs are just like a manual the only difference is the Manual you can lock and unlock the Add stays locked all the time. Add has a device built into the 3rd member that locks it in and out. The actuall hub is a steel cap with splines cut in it so yes you can turn these up without worring to much about them.
Cranking the tbars has nothing to do with the hub strength. Most people do want to get rid of the auto hubs though because they are complicated, weaker, and unlock momentarily when reversing.
#9
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ADD is not a hub.
The drive flanges that would be standard on a 92 that did not have manual hubs have zero moving parts. They are literally flanges, nothing more.
Without manual hubs, when the wheels spin, the CV's spin.
For what it's worth, I have toasted more CV boots after my manual hub install than before.
The drive flanges that would be standard on a 92 that did not have manual hubs have zero moving parts. They are literally flanges, nothing more.
Without manual hubs, when the wheels spin, the CV's spin.
For what it's worth, I have toasted more CV boots after my manual hub install than before.
#11
Originally posted by Flygtenstein
[B]ADD is not a hub.
[B]
[B]ADD is not a hub.
[B]
#12
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Sure thing CTB, just striving for clarity.
Steve, if I knew why I was going through more boots, I would fix it for sure. The next one is getting a non-steel clamp since that is where they are going on me. Perhaps not spinning is actually hurting that part of it? If you find out, let me know.
Steve, if I knew why I was going through more boots, I would fix it for sure. The next one is getting a non-steel clamp since that is where they are going on me. Perhaps not spinning is actually hurting that part of it? If you find out, let me know.
#13
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Thread Starter
Man I'm Dumb
I didn't evenrealize I was trying to buy something that didn,t exist! Seening all those cheap spacers for 3rd gen 4Runners must have blinded me with envy. I did buy and put on Performance Products 25mm Torsion Bars and rear lift coils but the 33s still bite a little in a sharp breaking turn. Is there any other way to get an inch or so. A serious lift kit is a fourth of what I paid for the rig.
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