mkgarrison5

in alabama your warm to hot temps will allow you to use a heavier weight oil.. i use 10w30 (synthetic) most of the year instead of dead winter ill go to a 5w30 for better cold flowing properties.. i would NOT use a 10w40. maybe a 5w40 synthetic.. any over the counter oil will be fine in your truck. these 5z's are very easy on oil as long as you change your plugs, pcv, air filter and keep it in good tune. you can get 5k miles easy on a dino oils like Penzoil or GTX. i find my syns on sale like Advance autos buy one get one freen Valv. Synpower. the reason why he said go to a heavier oil is bc it will dampen the noise only. it wont "fix" the issue.. btw the ticking is pretty normal. either way dont go over 5k mile oci's without getting the oil tested by a lab bc our trucks and 4-runners have a piss poor airfiltration.. Mobil 1 is on the thin 30wt side for 5w and 10w30, so i would any other oil but M1 (that and its been getting iffy results back from labs) hence the reason why i just find my oil on sale and change it no more than every 5k miles. these are the oils i would recommend to you

10w30- (dino) Penzoil, GTX, Havoline, Maxlife
10w30- (synthetic) what ever is on sale, if no sales then buy dino
5w40 (synthetic only in this weight bc the synthetic has better flowing properties than dino in this weight.)

personally i would stick with 10w30 esp if your truck is under warranty

mkgarrison5

how did you isolate it to the fan bearing with the engine running?

mt_goat

It has a long probe and you just move it around until the ticking gets the loudest. It works great, $10-$12 at Napa, no tool box should be without one at that price. Of course, I wasn't 100% positive it was the fan bracket bearing but that's were I found the loudest ticking. And since this truck had been in a wreck and the radiator was pushed into the fan it was a likely point of concern. The fan bracket bearing housing doesn't move with the engine running if that's what has you stumped.

mkgarrison5

what size tires are those? what year truck too.. thanks goat

mt_goat

I don't remember the tire size, its a 2001. I don't own it anymore, except for the engine and tranny.

MTL_4runner

The one in Dale's pic isn't assembled.....here it is complete.



Then just put the metal probe on various parts of the motor and when you're close to the problem you'll know right away.

LSUMatt1514

Just an update....It definitely seems to be coming from the engine. Borrowed a stethoscope and sure enough....driver's side. I switched to a 10W40 weight oil (Mobil SuperSyn) hoping that would help since two different dealers recommended I give this a try and to no avail. I've still got a ticking sound and I hate it!

Matt

LSUMatt1514

One other thing....I can also hear a clicking sound coming from somewhere in the rear of the truck. I guess it's an exhaust component that is loose or something. I can't hear it inside the cab...only when I get out to check the mail or something and the truck is in park. Next time I'm at a shop I'll have them crank it when it's on the lift and see if we can find it. Truck is starting to show it's age....2001 with 186k miles! Still runs like a champ though...although the gas mileage sucks even with super unleaded 93 octane. I'm sure my roof rack, brush guard, and 265/75/16 tires are not helping my gas mileage much.

Matt

LSUMatt1514

Sorry guys. I wanted to clarify something. I've been running Mobil Supersyn 5W30 since hitting 100k miles. I recently switched to 10W40 per the dealers' recommendations to try and stop the ticking sound. I didn't want you guys to get mis led and think I just now switched to synthetic.

Matt

djlopaka

Had same problem on mine...I finally found out that it was the crankshaft pulley(harmonic balancer) the inner most pulley is bolted together to the outer 2 pulleys. The inner one has a rubber insulator which wears out and causes the pulley to separate. Hope this helps... I had crickets and sometimes grinding noises from in front of engine and couldn't diagnose until yesterday.. New inner pulley from Toyota about $280, from dorman about $130....

mkgarrison5

yep thats the noise i have. the thicker oil quitens it down significantly BUT if you are under warranty only use 5w or 10w30 if you are not on warrantly then you can go with an 0w40 or 5w40 syn or dino. i wouldnt go higher... personally if you do not use syn go with valvoline maxlife 10w30 or the durablend 10w30 bc its in the heavy 30wt catagory or just keep using the 5w30 and live with the tick.. mine is the same as yours. seems like a toyota thing in these trucks..

mkgarrison5

dont use 93 your truck wasnt designed to use a higher octane fuel. save the $ and buy 87 but from a well known station like texaco, BP and etc..

also if you are suing those uridium plugs then pull it and go back to the dual electrode plugs from denso or ngk.....

one more thing, M1 runs very thin, try switching brands in 5w40 or just get used to the ticking.. i have

mkgarrison5

how long do you run M1 in one interval? if you are going over 6k miles on one oil change then bump it down and go to a higher weight.

LSUMatt1514

I run 5k between oil changes. What do you guys recommend I go with to help quiet the ticking sound?

Matt

4rx

maybe time for valve adjustments?

mkgarrison5

if a thicker oil doesnt help then there isnt much you can do. just live with it or sell it. mine ticks too and you can really hear it using a thin 5w30 synthetic.. but after reading tons about this mess, ill just live with mine.

LSUMatt1514

I'm going to live with it until it's time to sell the truck, but I figure I'll drive it at least a couple more years until my wife's Sequoia is paid off. Then...time for a new Tundra!!! I don't want to sell it with this ticking noise (or the intermittent P0420 CEL) so the closer I get to time to sell...the more I'll invest in these repairs. Until then, I'm happy to live with them as long as they pose no threat of damage and from everything that I've gathered...neither issue does.

Matt