LSUMatt1514

I will try to keep this as brief as I can but to say that I'm worried is an understatement. I took my truck to another local dealer (not one I normally use) about three weeks ago for routine maintenance. We've moved and they are closer than the one I've used (and trust) in the past. Some items they did were replace the timing belt, drive belts, water pump, tranny service, etc.

About a week later, my CEL started flashing on me and was throwing the code for random/multiple cylinder misfire (I've got another thread on here on this issue). I went back to the dealer that did the service and the first thing they found was a vacuum hose had come loose. After doing further research that night, I realized that it was most likely the culprit of this CEL. However, stupid me let the dealer talk me into replacing the Denso platinum plugs and plug wires to the tune of another $200 instead of recommending that I drive it for a week with the vacuum hose re-connected to see if the light came back. I was not a happy camper and as a result of this, do not want to ever go back to this dealership again. So far so good though, the light has not come back on.

Yesterday, my wife and I went to Athens, Ga to look at a Sequoia. We picked a pretty bad day since Auburn was playing UGA in Athens, so we got stuck in some pretty heavy bumper to bumper traffic about 30 miles outside of Athens. All was fine at this point. However, when we got closer to Athens and the traffic bogged down again and I was sitting at idle on the road, I started to hear a clicking/ticking sound coming from the front of the truck. I looked at my wife and asked if she heard and and she did to. Not good was my first thought.

We get to the dealership and while we were looking at the Sequoia and test driving it, I had them pull my truck in and get a mechanic to take a quick look at it to see if there was anything obvious. Nothing obvious found but one of the service consultants said when the mechanic put a stethoscope to the engine, it sounded as though the sound was coming from the engine. Really worried at this point and of course my first thought was that it was another result of Hoover Toyota working on it a few weeks ago. I made three different calls to the service manager and none were returned, including one where the receptionist was going to hand deliver the message to him.

I drove back from Athens and again...the same clicking/ticking noise when I parked in the driveway when we got home. I can't hear it while I'm driving (at interstate speeds for example) but really only at idle. It is rather audible (but not LOUD LOUD) when at idle and the hood is popped and can be hear with the hood down as well. Here's a twist for you...I crank it to go to work this morning after it sat in 30 degree weather last night and I DON'T HEAR IT!!!! Drove 30 minutes to work and didn't hear it when I got here and parked!!!

I've gotten some feedback from folks at work today, and really don't know what to do. Some have said it could be the timing belt slipping but the truck is idling smooth and not running rough so I don't think it's out of time. My first thought yesterday was slack in a belt, but I did not see that and I told Hoover Toyota that if the timing belt tensioner needed to be replaced to replace it but let me know if it needed it since they had it torn down but it would cost me more than I was already spending. They didn't replace it. Others at work today have said that this could be a valve lifter inside the engine (pardon my ignorance, but I'm still not sure exactly what that is or how serious). Others at work today have said that it could be a result of me running nothing but super unleaded gas. So there's my dilemma and here are my questions. The reason we traded her Lexus for the Sequoia was to have at least one vehicle with low miles (and kids coming along soon). My 4Runner has a little over 180k miles, but this happened so suddenly and didn't completely ruin, but put a serious damper on an otherwise great day since we got a great deal on a loaded out Sequoia. It just seems like way more than coincedence that these two incidents have happened within three weeks of Hoover Toyota touching my truck and up to this point, this 4Runner has been rock solid for almost 7 years and never given me any problems. Questions....

1. Do you have any suggestions, recommendations, or ideas as to what this could be?
2. Would you go back to Hoover Toyota (the place that did the 180k service) and have them look at it to see if it's somehow related to something they did 3 weeks ago? Problem is I don't trust them and they are liable to say anything to make more money!
3. Would you go to Limbaugh Toyota (the place that I've used routinely in the past and trust) and have them diagnose and repair the problem if one is found? What I'm worried about here is that if it is related to something that Hoover Toyota did, I'll have to pay Limbaugh and then Hoover will refuse the reimburse me since I didn't bring it back to them for them to diagnose. I can see it now....a 3-4 month battle trying to get my money back.
4. Not worry about it and see if things get worse or if it goes away?

I need to make a decision tonight because I'm off tomorrow and could drop the truck off first thing. God forbid I've got serious engine issues!!! This is the last thing I need right now. Anyone with advice or recommendations, please respond. Sorry for the long post, but I am worried. Thanks in advance guys.

FYI...Since 100k, I've run nothing but Mobil One 5W-30 SuperSyn.

Thanks.

Matt

Roadtripr

I heard something similar described for valve lifter noise. But before you do anything, do you really need to run super unleaded? I wonder if that is what you hear at idle?

I hate this kind of ping pong between mechanics myself:
". Would you go to Limbaugh Toyota (the place that I've used routinely in the past and trust) and have them diagnose and repair the problem if one is found? What I'm worried about here is that if it is related to something that Hoover Toyota did, I'll have to pay Limbaugh and then Hoover will refuse the reimburse me since I didn't bring it back to them for them to diagnose. I can see it now....a 3-4 month battle trying to get my money back."

You could go to Limbaugh and pay for the diagnostic. The go back to Hoover and ask them, and see if they find the same (that is if Limbaugh finds anything). Anyway you loose money but perhaps the diagnostic fee is a small amount to have a second oppinion.


Good luck

LSUMatt1514

I listened to it again tonight and I swear it sounds to me like the noise is coming from one the pulleys on the front of the engine. I could be wrong, but that's what it sounds like to me. Maybe the sound was resonating so much that the mechanic in Georgia thought it was inside the engine, but it's acutually coming from a pulley on the outside...Wishful thinking but I hope I'm right. I will DEFINITELY go to Limbaugh for the diagnosis. No doubt because they will at least be honest with me and I'll have proof in hand of what the problem is should I have to go back to Hoover to have them fix something they screwed up.

No...I don't need to run super unleaded but I've always done it to avoid leaving nasty engine deposits. Looks as though I may have been wrong in doing this all along. I don't recall EVER putting anything in my 4Runner other than super unleaded and I've had it since 2001 (181k miles).

Would you guys recommend running nothing higher than mid-grade (89 octane) in my 4Runner and my wife's new Sequoia? Don't want to revisit this again later on.

Thanks guys.

Matt

Roadtripr

Have them check that is it put together properly after the timing belt work was done.

I run the recommended 87 in mine. I see no need to go higher unless you want to pay more. Not sure on the deposit issue, but you could probably run techron or similar once in awhile a be fine.

Back40Rebel

Have them check the timing not with the timing marks but the cams against the crank. Mine was 15 degrees off after I had my timing belt done. Mine took longer to show up, but I sounds very familiar to what you see/hear.

If can find the post about my fiasco I'll post a link.

Edit** Here was the culprit on my truck.

Pic3
Pic1

Might be worth a look, no guarantee.

mikes19984x4

wow! this is very similar to what happened on my 4runner last year while on a hunting trip...ticking/knocking noise coming from front area of motor and could only be heard at speeds of less than 20 mph and at idle. took it to the shop, and the timing had jump out of whack, but also the balancer had somehow loosened on the crank, and was "wobbling", so-to-speak, on the end of the crank and making this noise. ended up getting new timing belt, which i needed anyway, and i also had to get a new balancer AND crank, as the "wobbling" was wearing down the crank, thus rendering it useless. hope your's isn't as serious as mine was, but i hope this helps ya out...

LSUMatt1514

Well...as much as I hate to say it, sounds like it needs to go back to Hoover in the morning. I've thought all along that it could be something they screwed up and these posts only further enhance my suspicion. If you find that link, please post it. I'll keep you guys updated on what I find out tomorrow. Thanks for the responses.

Matt

Roadtripr

this link?
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/2...-noise-103319/

LSUMatt1514

Thank you!

Back40Rebel

That's the one. The mechanic/shop owner who found it said he's only seen it 3 times now, and this was the 1st toyota, others were bowties.

mt_goat

Ask them what they retorqued the crank bolt to after changing the timing belt. (It should be retorqued to 217 ft-lbs on the 5VZFE) Even many pros don't have the correct torque spec because it changed after the early 5VZs had problems with the crank bolts coming loose and ruining the crank. The old spec was about 185 ft-lbs IIRC. And make sure they actually have the SST to hold the crank, some will cut corners and just use an impact on it hoping it will be good enough.

LSUMatt1514

Just got back from the dealer and running some errands. The service associate must have gotten his butt chewed because he was kissing my rear end today (and no charge for the diagnosis), even though I never got my return phone call from the associate service manager last week. Long story short, he said that it was coming from one of the valves on the driver's side. Said that it was most likely a lifter. He said that there would be no problem driving the truck like this and no risk of damaging the engine. He said it may go away just as quick as it showed up, which is what I'm hoping for. I'm not going to throw a bunch of money into this right now. I just added some SeaFoam to the crankcase to see if it will do anything with that lifter that is chattering. We'll see. But for now, I'm just going to ride this out.

He did recommend going from a 5W30 oil to a heavier weight such as 10W40. Service associate said that this may alleviate the problem itself. Mobil One does have a synthetic in this weight so I may give it a try at my next oil change. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!

Matt

cackalak han

1. It could be the injectors making that noise or a leaky exhaust manifold?
2. I'd take it to a trusty dealership/mechanic first, before taking it back to Hoover. That way, if you find the problem, you can either let them know or catch them lying to you.
3. Yes, as mentioned above, either there or a local trusted mechanic.
4. I wouldn't think it's a big deal, but for a peace of mind, I'd get it checked out. But mine (2002 Sport) also has various sounds emanate from it occasionally. I just do the required maintenance and make sure the critical parts aren't out of whack. So far, so good.

And no reason to run premium (ditto on your new Sequoia). Regular does just fine, unless you're supercharged.

Hope you get this resolved.

EDIT: Also, Mobil1 Synthetic may not be a true synthetic. I would recommend Amsoil/Royal Purple/Redline if you're going synthetic. LINK I'm not saying the info on this thread is 100% accurate, but enough light has been revealed for me to look elsewhere for synthetic oils.

EDIT II: Didn't see your post above. Glad you found the problem. Ignore #1-#3 on my post.

MTL_4runner

Matt, these lifters are solid so there's no such thing as a sticky lifter on a 3.4L motor, just worn shims/cam lobes or carbon buldup on valves. I doubt the heavier oil will help alot either but running a synthetic oil might. Get a simple engine stethoscope and probe for where the noise is actually coming from.

LSUMatt1514

Man....I had no idea Mobil One had lowered their standards like that. Thanks very much for the info. I just wish that Amsoil was more readily available than having to order it off the internet. It sucks that you can't just buy it in any auto parts store.

MTL...I try to do a little more investigating myself and post my findings if there are any.

Matt

MTL_4runner

Running Type IV vs Type III synthetics is not as big of a deal as most people make it out to be. The real issue is that if you pay a Type IV price then you expect Type IV not Type III. I've run both and notice very little difference between the two, but I did notice a difference vs regular dino oil though. If you want a good quality cheap synthetic oil, try Penzoil Platinum.

mt_goat

I had a ticking from the front of my 5VZFE that I just heard at idle. I was able to isolate it with this:


It was the bearing in the fan bracket. I replaced it and no more tick.

MTL_4runner

X2

It's time for you to do a little bit of sleuthing yourself rather than just taking it to a shop and hoping they find the issue. If you get a really good mechanic then he'll probably do the exact same thing to pinpoint the area of problem and give you a good place to start. Engine compartments tend to reflect sounds (making the source hard to pinpoint) and a stethoscope cuts through all that quickly and efficiently.

ozziesironmanoffroad

my engine is making noise too, took it to the dealership for a diagnostic, and they said that it sounds like the timing chain, but they werent sure, so it was free, (yes i have my grandpas negotiating skills.. teehee) but the sound stops when i put the clutch in all the way. sound like the throwout bearing? you betcha. i have no idea if its serious or not, but the truck can still burn out very hard, so im not worried about it. maybe your sound is the throwout bearing? or is it an automatic?

Wife's 4runner

I have a tick after warm up at idle consistent with an injector. I could be wrong.