jpmountainboy

Fresh 3..4 swap, and yes i swapped in my 3.0 sender.

what I don't like is the low nature of the gauge. It sits just a HAIR above the low line when driving above 30. under 30ish its in the middle of the low section.

yes I am going to put a better aux oil pressure gauge on there, but dont know if this is even abnormal for a swapped 3.4.

you will probably ask and also yell at me for running 20-40w with a little lucas, it just always seemed to hold up better on the 3.0. and i figured if you can dump a whole bottle of lucas in 15-30, whats the big deal.

If you have had similar gauge readings and overcome the problem, or had no problems at all, i sure would like to hear about it.

heres some pictures from today just to wet your mouth...took it out for some flex to find where to cut my firewall. shes a fresh SAS & 3.4 swap on 35's with dual arbs and batteries... I cant stop looking at it in my driveway.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

i run 5w30 in my swap with no problems at idle its just above the low mark on the gauge on the freeway its at halfway on the gauge.

jpmountainboy

thanks.

jpmountainboy

so...the oil smells of GAS!

the 3.4 was from a clean 2wd 01 runner with 68K on it. the crank and pan were super clean when I changed the oil pickup tube, and the wrecking yard that pulled it said they pre tested it and it had 170ish psi all the way around.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

guess ill check the compression now.

this means pretty much only bad rings right???

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

check the codes?

jpmountainboy

SO:

1) Do I need to splice in and OB2 port in the cab?

2) If all cylinders show consistent 180ish pressure, what else would cause gas in oil?
NOTES:

Check engine light comes on after about half hour of clearing them out (disconnect battery) I thought it was from a vac leak I found from where the hood was rubbing. I dont have an obd2 yet to check...on that note, I have the diagnostics port on the plenum, but a buddy said you have to actually splice one in under the dash on these 3.4 swaps to plug em in. Is this true?

Im checking the compression right now, first cylinder came out 182, and now the gauge is stuck spinning in the port...nice. Ill get back on that one

I just changed my plugs that came with the motor yesterday with new ngk dual electrodes.

the old ones were bosch quad electrodes, one plug had a missing electrode (found that out before putting it in, and did not find any fragments in piston) and another (which must have happened in the last 200 miles while breaking in gears) with an electrode grounded to the electrical source.

I thought that was strange as it was driving Decent, I thought I should have a little more power, but it hasnt changed since new plugs.

BUT im hoping this cylinder was not burning all the fuel and causing gas in the case. Im giong to change the oil tomorrow, but Im checking the compression now just for fun...as I should have already.

SO:

1) Do I need to splice in and OB2 port in the cab?

2) If all cylinders show consistent 180ish pressure, what else would cause gas in oil?

jpmountainboy

OK, all Compression reads from 178 to 182. I thought this motor looked sweet inside. Now, hopefully I was just getting unburnt fuel from bad plug? but would it be getting by that kind of ring seal?

any thoughts, I really dont want to screw this motor up as it would be the 4rth one this rig has seen after a blown 3.0, being sold a bad MOTORTIME 3.0 rebuild that lasted 600miles, a blown head on first used 3.4 (caught it) and now this one. Im ready to wheel now thank you very much please!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

1) yes!!!! wire in an obd2 port!!! how especially if its throwing codes!!! maybe its burning so rich you're damaging the motor..

jpmountainboy

OK, and if its running rich would that be from the MAF (cleaned), TPS, or ??? 02's seemed clean/newish...maybe came from a newer than 99 rig which is what the ecu is.

I heard the newer 02s had a more broad reading? I got the block from and 01 2wd auto runner (sweet!) And the ecu/wiring from a 99 MT taco, and the 02's came from possibly a 01 MT rig.

guess only the ob2 will tell me but any ideas now might help me sleep at

BIG RON

how old was the oil? every oil change I have ever done, always had a faint small of gas to it.

BIG RON

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/

jpmountainboy

thank you for those.

the oil only has probably under 500 miles on it. my odometer isnt working yet so not sure.

just woke up, so am going to do a search on wiring in the obd2 and see what I need to do...im guessing get one, and splice 4 wires off the ecu.

also changing the oil. still hope its from that bad plug, but running rich would make sense as I was a little disappointed with the power on this long uphill grade that just worked my 3.0. I still had to pin it out in fourth just to keep the power/rpms to keep up.

I blamed it on all the extra metal bracing, bigger tires(35s on 5:29s), winch/bumper. It still seemed choked out though...so.

WHAT IS THIS DIAGNOSTIC PORT FOR ON THE ENG IF I HAVE TO WIRE ONE IN THE CAB?

HERE IS A PIC OF THE SPARK I SPEAK OF: WHAT WOULD CAUSE THAT?

jpmountainboy

BIG RON: those codes and procedures are for and obd1 correct? I now have an obd2 with my swapped 3.4. i didnt think i could still pull codes by the jumper trick.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

bosch plugs suck, end of story! the connecter under the hood is for testing, the one in the cab is for comuniction with a computer scanner. I cant' really tell ya whats goin wrong with it.. just wire it in and get a cheap scanner from schmucks.

jpmountainboy

got it, thanks.

bansheeboy2x

I have got the same low oil pressure. Did anyone ever figure this out.

toyotabruce

i know im problably late on this but i have the oil issue too. when warming up my oil pressure is at half then if im idling my oil pressure drops too the L. now i have a ticking in my top end. i was told it might be my oil pump is not pumping enough oil out and the top end doesnt have oil in it. also i dont have an accurate reading on my dip stick

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

The oil pressure guages in the guages is known for not being 100 percent acurate. If you're that worried get a mechanical guage and test. Or try replacing the oil pressure sending unit with a new one.

77RogueRunner

I did the 22RE to 3.4 swap, using the 3.0 88 gauge cluster and 95 3.0 sending unit. My oil pressure reads similar, which is what lead me to this post as I was curious to see if a low reading was normal (little below half at start-up and a little above a 1/4 at 3k under normal opertaing temps, never fully bottoms out though). There must be a way to solder in a resistor like the tach mod so when it's at it's highest (cold startup) the gauge reads as such. Anybody know the max operating pressure of these 3.4 oil pumps?