Starter issues in 3VZE
10-25-2009, 05:58 PM
#1
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Starter issues in 3VZE
Hey guys,
I was recently cruising to the airport, got lost, turned my truck off and it would not turn over again. My stereo works, along with the lights ect. When i put a charger on the battery nothing changes.
Im thinking its my starter. The engine does not even crank over, so thats a pretty good sign (correct me if im wrong). How could i resolve this? I've heard of hitting it with a hammer temporarily helping it, does that work?
Thoughts?
I was recently cruising to the airport, got lost, turned my truck off and it would not turn over again. My stereo works, along with the lights ect. When i put a charger on the battery nothing changes.
Im thinking its my starter. The engine does not even crank over, so thats a pretty good sign (correct me if im wrong). How could i resolve this? I've heard of hitting it with a hammer temporarily helping it, does that work?
Thoughts?
10-25-2009, 07:42 PM
#4
Try a hammer or something to tap on the solenoid in case the plunger is stuck. You can also make a jumper wire to bridge power from the starter power post to the solenoid it to turn over, have someone in the vehicle turn the key to the start position then use the jumper:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#QuickFix
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...shtml#QuickFix
Last edited by 4Crawler; 10-25-2009 at 07:58 PM.
10-28-2009, 01:57 PM
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Hey guys, quick update as i am severely confused now.
So, when my truck is cold it will start fine. When its hot it wont start.
The ONLY thing i can SEE that could cause this is the heat wrap around the cabling beside the exhaust manifold is all cracked and worn out. Could that cause it?
Im lost on this one.
So, when my truck is cold it will start fine. When its hot it wont start.
The ONLY thing i can SEE that could cause this is the heat wrap around the cabling beside the exhaust manifold is all cracked and worn out. Could that cause it?
Im lost on this one.
10-28-2009, 02:01 PM
#6
If possible, try the voltage test I linked to above. Do the test when cold, note the voltages when it starts. Then test the voltage when hot and see if there is any difference from the cold tests. If so, the problem will lie in the circuit where there is a voltage difference.
10-28-2009, 02:11 PM
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If possible, try the voltage test I linked to above. Do the test when cold, note the voltages when it starts. Then test the voltage when hot and see if there is any difference from the cold tests. If so, the problem will lie in the circuit where there is a voltage difference.
I will try it for sure.
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10-28-2009, 02:20 PM
#8
Most normal materials have a positive resistance vs. temperature curve, that is higher temps = higher resistance. And higher resistance translates to increased voltage drop in a circuit. The solenoid, for example,pulls about 20 amps when it is on. And, per the FSM, more than 0.5 volts of drop in that line is a cause for concern, and with V=I*R, or R=V/I, you have 0.5/20 or 0.025 ohms between the battery and the starter solenoid will cause 0.5 volts of drop. And things like corroded connections or wires that are corroded up under the insulation have an even more extreme resistance vs. temperature curve.
10-28-2009, 02:33 PM
#9
Go buy you a hammer from wallbobs and hit the starter when your truck won't turn over. If it turns after hitting it then the starter seems at fault. Clean battery terminals. Check voltage when hot and cold.
11-03-2009, 10:23 AM
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Figured out the issue.
The housing around the solenoid connection was all cracked and broken, making it shake and rattle when driving. Oddly enough heat effected it. Fixed!
The housing around the solenoid connection was all cracked and broken, making it shake and rattle when driving. Oddly enough heat effected it. Fixed!
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