drew303

Again

why would my transfer case output spline have RTV gobbed on it? I can't imagine the Previous owner messing with the transfercase. .. hmm but who knows..



There was fluid puddled in the output 'flange' but kinda sealed in there by the pressure between the flange and driveline but definetly some fluid leakage and its sprayed nicely onto the bottom of the cab around the flange (flung out).

Is there suppost to be some gasket or sealer on the washer that sits before the 30mm nut? .... Didnt find any info on this or anything in the FSM's...

I also discovered that the flange nut wasnt torqured to 90 ft/lbs ... And the amount of RTV I scraped out of the flange, on the nut and all over the washer and as you can see gobbed on the splines I can only imagine it did the opposite of sealing anything in!!! .... the outer oil seal is in perfect condition to.

I discovered this mystery while installing this guy:




thanks =)

ewong

My FSM specs that "seal packing part number 08826-00090 Three Bond 1281 or equivalent" be placed in the spot in the pic.

It gets placed around the splines AFTER the flange is mouned.
The washer goes on top of the goop and then the nut gets torqued and staked down....

Pages TF34-TF34
Steps 21 and 22

drew303

Thanks ewong, I see that now.. hmm .. now this is interesting, maybe someone can enlighten us on transfercase design changes that would make toyota add the sealer.

Heres what I found from these two FSMs...

I have a 1987 pickup with the 2-B (carb) type transfercase, forward shift.

Heres what my 85 FSM says:


heres what the 93 fsm says:



were the output flanges ... front/rear on the Tcases ever redesigned from 1980 to 1995? Gear or chain driven, did it matter?

drew303

I remember hearing or reading somewhere that you should disconnect the rear driveline for towing since the input shaft (from transmission) is what brings the gear oil up and lubricates the gears on the rear output shaft?

right/wrong? ....

The 'sitting' oil level is few inches below the rear output shaft. (the fill plug) so im wondering if toyota didnt just add sealer to prevent any oil escapage (which causes an oily ring on the underside of the cab) ... maybe new emissions standards prompted to prevent any uneccessary or correctable oil escape?

I dunno

guess what im getting at is how important is adding the sealer?

superjoe83

all the RTV does is insure that oil doesn't seep down past the splines and leak out between the nut and washer, if the nut and washer is in good shape you really don't need it, but it wont hurt anything to put some on there

ewong

Probably just a "neatness" issue

If the oil does leak out it gets spun off the companion flange pretty quickly - esp at highway speeds.

Considering that Toyotas dont mark their spots like say Land Rovers do.... it sprobalby just to cut down on leaks.

Mines a gear driven and it had the seal packing (1989)
AFAIK all the gear driven are pretty much the same?

Anyway - it doesnt do much harm but its a PITA to clean up when R&R the flange...

904_runner

Im bumping this thread because i have to clarify something.

My truck is leaking gear oil out from this flange, i noticed gear oil all under neat the truck so its getting flung out while driving. I took the driveshaft out last night and noticed it seems to be leaking from where the nut is, inside there, like from where the first picture on this page is.

In order to stop the gear oil from leaking, is it just the seal that is pictured the one that needs to be replaced? The seal i have is a koyo wit a part number of MTO41A1.

Just want to make sure before i tear into this tonight.

(i don't have a torque wrench so can i just count the number of turns or should i wait until i can get a torque wrench?)

thanks

mt_goat

Most of the major auto parts stores will loan you a torque wrench.

904_runner

yea ive used the loner tools, but i am soo strapped for cash for like another week. I guess ill just wait

My99

Just as an add-on, I did replace mine the first time without the RTV, hoping that it was just a precaution. I'd say it's more than that. If you don't put RTV on one, especially with our rigs being older, you'll have a leak like I do. Today I'm replacing the seal again and using RTV.

claudebadly

on my 2000 tacoma. i have a leak coming from the front of the T case. seams to be the same problem. but not quite out of the flange area. think its the front seal on the T case, but havent taken it apart yet, any ideas?!

My99

Well, if the transfer cases are anything like they were on the old one, and I assume they're similar, at least in design, it's probably the seal on the front side. On our older trucks, it's the same part number for the front seal as it is the rear. As far as cracking that nut, I've never tried on that side of the Tcase, but I would think it would be straight forward like the rear.

thook

Kyle!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

I've been thinking about you the past week or two. I should call you!

On topic, more or less.........

The output on my '86 is leaking. But, it mostly pools up behind the u-joint. Last week I took the driveline down to insect the UJ's and about 2 tbs. came pouring out. Kinda shocked me, at first, thinking I must have a major leak, but quickly realized what was really happening. But, I'm not going to concern myself with it until Spring is here. I've had enough under the vehicle repairs for this winter.....blah! Last winter was worse, by far, though. Wretched, I tell you......wretched.

My99

Hey Matthew! Yeah man give me a call sometime. I'm just up the road here now. My work commute is about 4 miles. Beats the 30 I used to have, and I'm loving it, as is the yota. I've put maybe 2,000 miles on it since i moved 6 months ago and that includes a trip to Little Rock & a couple to Fort Smith.

Junkers88

I know what caused that RTV thing. It's that crazy, and very unsafe, brake thing you have on there. Tell you what, pull that thing off and send it to me, I'll send you a new tube of RTV and we'll both be peaches.

My99

Looks like a brake rotor welded to the driveshaft. An E-brake alternative?

Junkers88

Yup. I've been wanting one for a while and just missed one for almost nothing, hell the shipping was more than the component and I paused for about 10 minutes to think about it and it was gone.

Hypoid

A torque wrench can be had for under $20.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

You'll need some sort of spanner wrench to counter the torque wrench. Like the FSM diagram. Otherwise you won't get the proper torque value and your relying on gears and brakes to hold flange still. I locktite the the 30mm nut, I don't like staking nuts with the bearings taking all the impact.

X2 on sealant on the shaft.

thook

Will do!