Is there anything else I should consider replacing?

Thanks!

 

Why are you replacing?

 

A leaky pinion seal if you've got one. Make sure and re torque the bolts a few times in the first few weeks after you install the new one.

 

U-Joints

 

Thanks, will do!

 

I was planning on doing this with some greasable ones! Do you think the creeper joints are necessary? I don't do any extreme wheeling, at all. I dunno if it matters, but gear ration is off in the third, also.

 

Had some issues with the second half's yoke being messed up, and the only place I could find that had my driveshaft required that I buy the whole thing, so here I go

 

if you're stock hight up to probably 4 inches of lift, standard replacements will do; you'll really get no gain from any other types

it's when you get into high angles that you have to start considering different u-joints

from my experience anyway...

 

Alright, cool, I'll just get stock ones. They're half the price

 

Since we're on the topic. I don't have a torque wrench, but what kind would be good investing in? I know some are more accurate than others, but I forget.

Thanks!

 

are you replacing the whole drive shaft or just the U joints.
you can rent a press or use a bench vise and a 19mm socket to push out the old joints make sure to get the right ones I bought some napa U joints and the grease zerks where in a hard to reach spot and are a real pain to grease now.

 

Some people hate them but I've had good luck with my Craftsman ones. I do a lot of little precision stuff on my dirt bike and ultralight airplane so I have a in and ft lb one. Take good care of them and you should be fine.

 

the standard craftsman bar torque wrench is around 68$ and has a lifetime warranty, the click ones are nice but are not covered but if they are used properly they last a very long time.

 

^ x2

i got my mastercraft maxium 3/8 one for a really good deal, i liked it so far. It came with a case and everything.

 

CyMon: I'm replacing the whole drive shaft. I got one at a Toyota/Lexus dismantler, so it has old u-joints in it already, so thanks for the tip. I've never done this before.

Through my auto class I get a pretty cool discount on snap-on and matco tools. My teacher told me that with the discount, they're around the price of craftsman.

But I was more aiming at like the Beam type vs. click type, not brands.

Thanks guys!

 

My opinion, click type for big stuff can't always see the beam. Beam for little, can't always hear/feel click.

 

I like to base is off the bolt size after snapping off a stud for my hubs...



It never did clicked, so I kept tightening, not reallizing just how much force I was really putting on it because of leverage with a 1 1/2 ft long torque wrench

I'd say if you have to use a 14mm or smaller socket on it, use the "bar" type; anything bigger, and you'll probably be safe using the "click" type

 

Thanks for the tips about the tools!

Okay, I have one more question! (I think) I was checking out the FSM on removing the the drive shaft. After you remove it from the transmission it says plug it with an "SST" and I was wondering what this is.

Thanks

 

I don't think you can blame that on the wrench. Looks more like operators "head space and timing."

 

hah, X2 !