Yotas&Jellos

Is there anything else I should consider replacing?

Thanks!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Why are you replacing?

UKMyers

A leaky pinion seal if you've got one. Make sure and re torque the bolts a few times in the first few weeks after you install the new one.

iamsuperbleeder

U-Joints

Yotas&Jellos

Thanks, will do!

Yotas&Jellos

I was planning on doing this with some greasable ones! Do you think the creeper joints are necessary? I don't do any extreme wheeling, at all. I dunno if it matters, but gear ration is off in the third, also.

Yotas&Jellos

Had some issues with the second half's yoke being messed up, and the only place I could find that had my driveshaft required that I buy the whole thing, so here I go

iamsuperbleeder

if you're stock hight up to probably 4 inches of lift, standard replacements will do; you'll really get no gain from any other types

it's when you get into high angles that you have to start considering different u-joints

from my experience anyway...

Yotas&Jellos

Alright, cool, I'll just get stock ones. They're half the price

Yotas&Jellos

Since we're on the topic. I don't have a torque wrench, but what kind would be good investing in? I know some are more accurate than others, but I forget.

Thanks!

CyMoN

are you replacing the whole drive shaft or just the U joints.
you can rent a press or use a bench vise and a 19mm socket to push out the old joints make sure to get the right ones I bought some napa U joints and the grease zerks where in a hard to reach spot and are a real pain to grease now.

UKMyers

Some people hate them but I've had good luck with my Craftsman ones. I do a lot of little precision stuff on my dirt bike and ultralight airplane so I have a in and ft lb one. Take good care of them and you should be fine.

CyMoN

the standard craftsman bar torque wrench is around 68$ and has a lifetime warranty, the click ones are nice but are not covered but if they are used properly they last a very long time.

874runnersr5

^ x2

i got my mastercraft maxium 3/8 one for a really good deal, i liked it so far. It came with a case and everything.

Yotas&Jellos

CyMon: I'm replacing the whole drive shaft. I got one at a Toyota/Lexus dismantler, so it has old u-joints in it already, so thanks for the tip. I've never done this before.

Through my auto class I get a pretty cool discount on snap-on and matco tools. My teacher told me that with the discount, they're around the price of craftsman.

But I was more aiming at like the Beam type vs. click type, not brands.

Thanks guys!

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

My opinion, click type for big stuff can't always see the beam. Beam for little, can't always hear/feel click.

iamsuperbleeder

I like to base is off the bolt size after snapping off a stud for my hubs...



It never did clicked, so I kept tightening, not reallizing just how much force I was really putting on it because of leverage with a 1 1/2 ft long torque wrench

I'd say if you have to use a 14mm or smaller socket on it, use the "bar" type; anything bigger, and you'll probably be safe using the "click" type

Yotas&Jellos

Thanks for the tips about the tools!

Okay, I have one more question! (I think) I was checking out the FSM on removing the the drive shaft. After you remove it from the transmission it says plug it with an "SST" and I was wondering what this is.

Thanks

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you can blame that on the wrench. Looks more like operators "head space and timing."

scuba

hah, X2 !