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Old 12-24-2006, 02:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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EGR malfunction code 71?

The check engine light is showing its a code 71 for EGR system. I've replaced the EGR valve with another used one, checked all grounds that I could think of and checked for any vaccum leaks which I didn't find any. Check engine light still comes on.

The as reed valve does make a loud scratching sound, but I'm not sure if its supposed to though.

What else could be the problem for egr?
Thanks, Steven
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Old 12-26-2006, 07:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Anyone have any ideas?
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Old 12-26-2006, 08:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q.../IMG_01482.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...j/IMG_0149.jpg
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1992 Toyota 4runner V6 A/T ECU/ECM for sale, part # 89661-35770, asking price at $150.00 USD. Free Shipping in the US.

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Old 01-18-2007, 11:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I just had a 71 code read in my 94 4runner 3.0 today and Im determining what to do. Im wondering what Guardian_Saint was doing in those pics on his post. Why are those yellow caps where the vaccume line should be?
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Old 01-18-2007, 12:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by WillRadford View Post
I just had a 71 code read in my 94 4runner 3.0 today and Im determining what to do. Im wondering what Guardian_Saint was doing in those pics on his post. Why are those yellow caps where the vaccume line should be?
Check your vacum lines first for any leaks, particularly if you have pulled your engine or done any work requiring removing those vacum lines. I had the same code from after rebuilding my engine in my '95. It turned out that I swapped two vacum lines around but luckly my '89 has a 3.0 as well so I had something to compare it to and was able to find the problem.
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Old 01-18-2007, 01:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillRadford View Post
I just had a 71 code read in my 94 4runner 3.0 today and Im determining what to do. Im wondering what Guardian_Saint was doing in those pics on his post. Why are those yellow caps where the vaccume line should be?
I think he's suggesting bypassing the EGR in a subtle way. It's an option if it's legal in your state. There are plenty threads on it. I did it to both my 4rnrs. One of them, I didn't have much of a choice....limited by EGR valve funding.
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Heres a way to test from the top of the egr system.
1st while the engine is idling using the hose going to the EGR dashpot, Suck on it, If the engine dies and you cant keep sucking air through it then the dashpot is good.
2nd the green vsv cellonoid over on the passenger fender is working ok, You can do a suck on test to see if its opening and closing right, I think the valve closes on a throttle decel.

If both of those are good then its the little black plastick disk thingy at teh front of the engine with all the hoses going into it. (It gets plugged with water and carbon sometimes)
Or the heat sensor has bad, Thats the one with the 2 wires coming out the side of the egr tube below the dashpot.

I think its the little black plastic thingy if the first 2 checks are good.
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Old 01-18-2007, 02:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Black plastic thingy....vacuum modulator...
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Old 01-18-2007, 06:17 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I went through this for a couple years and just drove it with the light on, right up until a few weeks ago when I had finally had enough of that orange glow. I had to fix the real culprit (of mine).
Mine didn't have the egr temp. sensor, being from NY. My vehicle had over 200k on it, I figured something must have worn out.
So, just like the DEALER does, I just threw parts at it. I replaced the vacuum modulator, which really wasn't working right. Light came back on after about 30 miles. I replaced the egr valve with a checked used one, the old one did seem to function correctly, I replaced it anyway-light came back on in a day. Christ, I went as far as getting a new TPS and fiddling with that for a week.
THEN-
I went through the FSM doing every egr test to find the problem. Everything was fine. I couldn't figure it out.
UNTIL I found a test I didn't try before. I'm not sure why I didn't. It was for the VSV. The VSV (vacuum switching valve) was the cause of my two year code 71. I felt sooo dumb. There is a test in the FSM for this, which I can post. I have all the PDF's from the toyota.com site. I spemt a whole day at work doing it! In fact I'll post all of the tests for future searches for "code 71"
Try all these tests and do yourself a favor & go to autozone (or whatever part store near you that loans tools & get a vacuum pump like this: http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...acuum_pump.htm
It makes it so much easier on your lungs, plus you know you are pulling enough vacuum-you can be more positive of your testing. PLUS, it's free! (if you return it)
I'll find those pdf.s now
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Do all these tests& you should be able to find whatever is messed up- Here:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/19egrsy.pdf
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Old 01-19-2007, 01:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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My Code 71 problem was a clogged EGR VSV. Pull off your VSV and take a look at it. The metal pipes that connect the vacum lines running over the front/top of the engine can corrode on the inside and when the corrosion breaks loose it clogs the VSV. I could see the clogged VSV port when I removed my VSV.

If you search "Code 71" you'll find my story and others as well.
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