Cig lighter not working
#1
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Location: Encinitas, CA
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Cig lighter not working
No voltage coming from the cig lighter. I checked the 15A fuse down there and its fine. What else could be causing this? I had an airpump running on it to fill tires and it just stopped working. I thought it was the pump but nothing else works in there.
#2
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take the dash apart and a little wire hooks into the back of the cig lighter. Just plug the wire back in and it will start working again, just be careful when putting it back together so it doesnt fall out again.
#3
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Originally Posted by 881stGenRunner
take the dash apart and a little wire hooks into the back of the cig lighter. Just plug the wire back in and it will start working again, just be careful when putting it back together so it doesnt fall out again.
It's like a second fuse, only it always seems to pop first and it is a pain to get to and even more of a pain to replace.
You will have to dissassemble the entire lower dash (Glovebox, around the radio, under the wheel, etc.) to get to it. On the back of the socket, if there is a little "L" shaped wire that has burnt up it needs replaced.
They sell fusable link wire at the parts store, but I just used normal wire so it would not happed again, let the 15 AMP fuse handle it, it is much easier to replace.
I speak from experiance.
Hope it helps,
Lamm
#4
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Originally Posted by 4x4Lamm
Doubtful it fell off. I bet my farm on the intigrated fuseable link on the back of the recepticle.
It's like a second fuse, only it always seems to pop first and it is a pain to get to and even more of a pain to replace.
You will have to dissassemble the entire lower dash (Glovebox, around the radio, under the wheel, etc.) to get to it. On the back of the socket, if there is a little "L" shaped wire that has burnt up it needs replaced.
They sell fusable link wire at the parts store, but I just used normal wire so it would not happed again, let the 15 AMP fuse handle it, it is much easier to replace.
I speak from experiance.
Hope it helps,
Lamm
It's like a second fuse, only it always seems to pop first and it is a pain to get to and even more of a pain to replace.
You will have to dissassemble the entire lower dash (Glovebox, around the radio, under the wheel, etc.) to get to it. On the back of the socket, if there is a little "L" shaped wire that has burnt up it needs replaced.
They sell fusable link wire at the parts store, but I just used normal wire so it would not happed again, let the 15 AMP fuse handle it, it is much easier to replace.
I speak from experiance.
Hope it helps,
Lamm
#5
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yep sure as ÅÅÅÅ, that was it. why the hell is that damn thing there anyway?
I didn't even put a wire, I just dropped a big bead of solder on there, connecting the two plates seperated by that insulating washer
I didn't even put a wire, I just dropped a big bead of solder on there, connecting the two plates seperated by that insulating washer
#6
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It serves as a second circut protection device I think do people can't stick a 30 amp fuse in for the cig. lighter trying to run a boatload of 12V accessories and burn up some wires.
Why they did not use a slightly larger gauge of fuse wire I don't know, as it always seems to pop before the stock 15 amp fuse.
Lamm
Why they did not use a slightly larger gauge of fuse wire I don't know, as it always seems to pop before the stock 15 amp fuse.
Lamm
#7
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Rather than starting a new discussion, I think this is the best place to rehash this issue. My '97 4Runner has NO reference to the blade fuse on any of the fuse panels (pics to follow as soon as I pull them from my phone). I followed the tips to remove the dash panels, starting with armrest top, e-brake trim, shifter trim...then when I was attempting to pop off the fake-wood radio/climate control trim, I was met with BIG resistance near the top and on the passenger side. I used a large flat-head screwdriver, but gave up, because I know my frustration threshold and I have to be at work at 4:45am (it's 6:15pm now, and I have to get stuff done). I buttoned everything back up, but was wondering if anyone had any tips or tricks on how to pop this piece off without snapping it in half?!?! I REALLY need this power port...I should hardwire others, but for now it's all I have...for my CB/iPhone/Sirius Radio/etc...which have never given me problems. Oh, BTW, DO NOT plug in a Rally brand window heater/defogger. It'll pop that link in 3 minutes.
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