3vze Top End rebuild...W/pics...slowly

Morphine · 02-08-2005, 08:13 PM

As you know I'm basically rebuilding my top end. So tonight I finally got started and took some pics. It will be slow going as I'm not a mechanic and started before Drkgypsy made it over(man is he going to have FUN piecing this mess back together with me

). Parts on order, machine shop lined up. Let the dismantling begin.

Angles of the engine area:

Room to work in:

Goal to remove tonight:

Success:

The mess:

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Morphine · 02-08-2005, 08:17 PM

Parts are ordered. Going to a larger valve on the heads. Downey headers and new HP exhaust. 2" body lift and I just found out I'll be getting an early B-Day gift of new skyjacker shocks (currently all 4 corners ride on economy monroe shocks -- Not designed for my yota). Love ya sweety, no, not you guys on the forum...Nothing personal.

The Project has began

-=Morphine=-

EDIT:::
Is it common for this gasket to be cracked into 3 pieces when you remove the air intake manifold?

bike4miles · 02-08-2005, 08:28 PM

What is a top end rebuild? Not sure about the gasket, never had my 3.0 appart that far before I sold it although I needed to because the valve cover on that side leaked. Doesn't look TOO bad but sill a lot of work for a valve cover!

Morphine · 02-08-2005, 08:33 PM

Bike4miles, as the title says, that's what I'm callingit. Machining the heads, valve job, adjustment, new gaskets, hoses, etc.

Basically Cylinder #6 is shot to hell and the other 5 are weak. Hope that explains my intentions.

-=Morphine=-

ChickenLover · 02-08-2005, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morphine

EDIT:::
Is it common for this gasket to be cracked into 3 pieces when you remove the air intake manifold?

Yes. I've removed my plenum many times and it's always in 2-3 pieces. You oughta see what my engine compartment looks like right now. Good luck dood!

westca707 · 02-08-2005, 08:42 PM

Great Pics! This weekend, I'm going to start doing the same thing... My 91, V6 is showing a knock sensor code and I finally decided to take-on the project in replacing both sensor and wire. Thanks

bike4miles · 02-08-2005, 08:45 PM

Ok, got it. Hey ChickenLover, is that your radiator I see still mounted? How did you get all that stuff out without smashing it? That's always the first thing I take out.

ChickenLover · 02-08-2005, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bike4miles

Ok, got it. Hey ChickenLover, is that your radiator I see still mounted? How did you get all that stuff out without smashing it? That's always the first thing I take out.

Nah, the radiator was the first thing to go. That's just the 'thing' that sits in front of the radiator. Sorry, I can't think of what it's called.

Ganoid · 02-08-2005, 10:24 PM

AC condensor is whats still mounted.

Morphine · 02-09-2005, 12:20 AM

Midnight wrenching or the Haynes manual I'm using....but something doesn't seem right. Alright, Air intake manifold (plenum) is off, so are the valve covers for both sides. Next the manual says to remove the "intake Manifold" between both sides. Ok, however I still have the timing belt and cover and everything else on up front - minus the fan and shroud still on. The Intake manifold appears to be connected to these items. Am I wrong? Should I remove the timing belt and upfront pulley's and belts, then the intake manifold? Anyone off tomorrow and want to come up and help? Pizza and soft drinks? If it gets done BEER!!!

Please guide me O'ye wonderful and full of the Yota knowledge followers of yotatech.

-=Morphine=-

nunsa · 02-09-2005, 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Morphine

Midnight wrenching or the Haynes manual I'm using....but something doesn't seem right. Alright, Air intake manifold (plenum) is off, so are the valve covers for both sides. Next the manual says to remove the "intake Manifold" between both sides. Ok, however I still have the timing belt and cover and everything else on up front - minus the fan and shroud still on. The Intake manifold appears to be connected to these items. Am I wrong? Should I remove the timing belt and upfront pulley's and belts, then the intake manifold? Anyone off tomorrow and want to come up and help? Pizza and soft drinks? If it gets done BEER!!!

Please guide me O'ye wonderful and full of the Yota knowledge followers of yotatech.

-=Morphine=-

Get your T-belt off. One quick tip also: Make sure you replace your knock sensor and wire! If not it will almost gaurenteed to throw a code 52 after you get her back together. There's many ways to dismantle a 3.0, the 1st thing I would have taken off was the T-belt, starting upfront and moving backwards. It's pretty much up to you. The advice I use to give to people when taking a 3.0 apart was: take pictures and get yourself some pieces of cardboard, the cardboard was for to put the bolts from the heads in order in which they came out,and other bolts (unless your replacing them), That way you'll exactly where they go. Your doing a fine job! Good Luck!

Bumpin' Yota · 02-09-2005, 06:33 AM

Agreed, and yes that lower intake plenum has the #2 idler for the timing belt attached to it. Pull the timing belt like nunsa said, (after setting the engine to TDC) then attack you cam gears (goodluck hehehehehe they are nasty SOBs to get off) only then can you take the rear timing covers off, then the fuel lines/rails/injectors, then lower intake.

I did find a place online that sells new heads that are ported polished with oversized intake and exhuast valves, AND have 4 cam profiles for this engine!!! The heads come already set up to go. The cost however is 1200 + 600 core charge!! :eek:

Morphine · 02-09-2005, 09:41 AM

Ok, timing belt and accessories are next. I already set TDC and marked it, so I'm good there. I've heard from many sources to replace the knock sensor and wire now so that's been added to the list.

Bumpin' yota - Out of my price. Thats almost the amount that this repair is gonna cost me. I would like to check them out if you have a link. Curiosity killed the called.

I have carboard and post-it notes labeling everything and my digicam is going crazy. Putting here back together is going to be a PITA.

Is there an acceptable number of parts that can be leftoff and she'll still run fine?

j/k

-=Morphine=-

4Hummer · 02-09-2005, 10:23 AM

You'll LOVE your skyjacker Shocks (I do) DOnt foget to replace the steering stablizer while your at it.

Morphine · 02-09-2005, 08:15 PM

Ok, with so much torn off the engine I decided to take a stab at some body work while I'm at it. In tearing down my 3vze I've found the fuel injectors (2 of them) were held to the electrical connector with zip ties. Completely fouled up I'll be sending them for a cleaning and comlete flow test to Cruzinperformance. Heads will be going to the shop on friday. Here are some more pics...

Timing belt

Is this the knock sensor?

Valve covers off

Dirty and carbon/crap build up.

Start to work on the body

Close up of the dent fron behind the fender

Bumpin' Yota · 02-09-2005, 08:48 PM

Niiice! Good luck with that crank pully and the cam pullys!

That website you wanted that has:

Performance Heads w/4 cam lobe options
Big Bore TBs
Forged cranks
Forged rods
Cast race prepped rods
Forged pistons
Moly ring
Head Studs ----- something you and I should get
3vze STROKER KIT!!

That site gives me ALL kinds of ideas!!

EDIT: Whoops forgot the URL...LOL

http://toyotaperformance.com/3_0l.htm

Anyone got a few grand I can have?

Bumpin' Yota · 02-09-2005, 08:51 PM

PS - yes that's the knock sensor. You should REALLY change out those steel freeze plugs....I bet they are rusting like a mofo...

dragon564 · 02-09-2005, 08:52 PM

Morph,

Sorry man I forgot to send you this really cool web site. You can print out the steps for taking apart the head and many other things. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8017957f.jsp

it is should be one line in the address bar with no spaces and type it just like you see it here. I have printed it out a couple of times (only the part for the 3vz) and have the pages real handy while I working. I have checked them against the chiltons I have; and for the most part excatly the same. the printed pages are cool cause I do not have to worry about greasy finger prints on the import parts of the book.

Your tracking right...good luck

KING · 02-09-2005, 08:54 PM

Replace knock sensor and wire when doing t-belt replacemnt?

dragon564 · 02-09-2005, 09:02 PM

Morph,

sorry as I read it online it hacked up the web address. let me try again

www1.autozone.com/servlet/Uibroker?ForwardPage=
/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/95/7f/
0900823d8017957f.jsp

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB.../cds/en_us/090
0823d/80/17/95/7f/0900823d8017957f.jsp

try that...should work better

Dragon

Morphine · 02-09-2005, 09:02 PM

Thanks for the link Bumpin'Yota I've checked them out. Brass freeze plugs are ordered as well as what seems like everything else. I contacted Toyota stealership and they quoted me:

part no. 82219-89103 wire sensor for 11.47
part no. 89615-20010 knock sensor for 179.28

Can anyone recommend a better price or place or just stay with the stealership?

Man Ifeel so vulnerable just revealing my dirty/abuse engine to everyone here. Bumpin' if i'm ever in your area again we'll have to get together and wrench/drink/yota

Dragon thanks for the link, my haynes manual will appreciate it (but my printer will no longer be my friend after I'm done printing it out a 100 or so times).

Thanks
-=Morphine=-

Bumpin' Yota · 02-09-2005, 09:15 PM

Hey if you need the Toyota Factory Service Manual for removing the heads and reinstalling them as well asdissassembly, just gimme an email addy that can take a BIG attachment. Lots of pics (ok drawings lol) are included.

dragon564 · 02-09-2005, 09:16 PM

Morph,

don't feel bad bout the motor.... I could always post the picture of my old one with the number one piston so low in the cyl that you can tell the con rod is just not there.....Your in California so we can just say it like this.....

Yes it the prior care provider could have down more, but counseling is being conducted, and everything will be better in a few more sessions

KING · 02-10-2005, 02:00 PM

Perhaps I ought to rephrase my question because of comprehendible issues.

When is it mandatory to replace the knock senser? When doing doing the timing belt replacement or when doing engine re-build?

Is it not quite clear as to when to replace it at the above mention.

I will be replacing my timing belt in the next few segments and I would like to know if to tackle it then or not.

Highly appreciate a generous and non-effortless response.

Eric · 02-10-2005, 03:37 PM

I'm wondering the same thing. I want to make sure my knock sensor is not working before I plump down 200 on a new one...

on another note, everyone is saying to ground the knock sensor wire to the block. this seams wierd since there is only one wire comming off the knock sensor, and it doesn't look thick enough to be shielded.

can you guys give better details to this grounding deal?

02-08-2005, 08:17 PM	#2 (permalink)
Morphine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Moreno Valley, Ca Posts: 565	Sorry for the large pics if needed I'll resize them. Parts are ordered. Going to a larger valve on the heads. Downey headers and new HP exhaust. 2" body lift and I just found out I'll be getting an early B-Day gift of new skyjacker shocks (currently all 4 corners ride on economy monroe shocks -- Not designed for my yota). Love ya sweety, no, not you guys on the forum...Nothing personal. The Project has began -=Morphine=- EDIT::: Is it common for this gasket to be cracked into 3 pieces when you remove the air intake manifold? __________________ '91 v6 3.0L 4x4 Pickup. Oversized Valves, Ceramic Downey Headers, K&N Cone Filter Knock off, ISR Mod, Pro Comps 33x12.50x15's, 2" BL, Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer,Bilstein's in the corners, Acura Bucket Seats, Custom dye'd Black carpet! Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP HU, 4" 2-way Pioneer TS-G1040R, 6.5" 4-way Pioneer TS-A1681R, Sub in progress!! Last edited by Morphine; 02-08-2005 at 08:22 PM.

02-08-2005, 08:28 PM	#3 (permalink)
bike4miles Contributing Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 3,402	What is a top end rebuild? Not sure about the gasket, never had my 3.0 appart that far before I sold it although I needed to because the valve cover on that side leaked. Doesn't look TOO bad but sill a lot of work for a valve cover! __________________ --Miles Sold '91 4runner, 22re, 5 spd manual, 180,000 miles, cone filter, Downey 1.5"HD coils, SkyJacker Nitrogens, Magnaflow Exhaust, Stull grill, Clears all around. Check out my sound proofing project and other mods: My 4runner page My 2006 Camry page I'm a Myspace Addict!

02-08-2005, 08:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
Morphine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Moreno Valley, Ca Posts: 565	Well I'm calling it a Top End Rebuild. Bike4miles, as the title says, that's what I'm callingit. Machining the heads, valve job, adjustment, new gaskets, hoses, etc. Basically Cylinder #6 is shot to hell and the other 5 are weak. Hope that explains my intentions. -=Morphine=- __________________ '91 v6 3.0L 4x4 Pickup. Oversized Valves, Ceramic Downey Headers, K&N Cone Filter Knock off, ISR Mod, Pro Comps 33x12.50x15's, 2" BL, Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer,Bilstein's in the corners, Acura Bucket Seats, Custom dye'd Black carpet! Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP HU, 4" 2-way Pioneer TS-G1040R, 6.5" 4-way Pioneer TS-A1681R, Sub in progress!!

02-08-2005, 08:45 PM	#7 (permalink)
bike4miles Contributing Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 3,402	Ok, got it. Hey ChickenLover, is that your radiator I see still mounted? How did you get all that stuff out without smashing it? That's always the first thing I take out. __________________ --Miles Sold '91 4runner, 22re, 5 spd manual, 180,000 miles, cone filter, Downey 1.5"HD coils, SkyJacker Nitrogens, Magnaflow Exhaust, Stull grill, Clears all around. Check out my sound proofing project and other mods: My 4runner page My 2006 Camry page I'm a Myspace Addict!

02-08-2005, 10:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
Ganoid Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Salem,Oregon Posts: 508	AC condensor is whats still mounted. __________________ 1990 Xcab beast of burden 3.0 Rebuild/Precision balanced w/OS valves Custom ported/welded Intake manifolds Downey headers, Jacobs Ign 4" Trail Gear SAS + rear Kit R151 + Dual cases (2.28+4.7) 5.29's,Tru Trac/Lockright on 35 BFG's 140A GM CS144 alt/Hyd assist steering DOA Racing = $1200 lesson in who NOT to deal with

02-08-2005, 08:42 PM	#6 (permalink)
westca707 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: North Bay Posts: 3	Great Pics! This weekend, I'm going to start doing the same thing... My 91, V6 is showing a knock sensor code and I finally decided to take-on the project in replacing both sensor and wire. Thanks

02-09-2005, 12:20 AM	#10 (permalink)
Morphine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Moreno Valley, Ca Posts: 565	OK help please. Midnight wrenching or the Haynes manual I'm using....but something doesn't seem right. Alright, Air intake manifold (plenum) is off, so are the valve covers for both sides. Next the manual says to remove the "intake Manifold" between both sides. Ok, however I still have the timing belt and cover and everything else on up front - minus the fan and shroud still on. The Intake manifold appears to be connected to these items. Am I wrong? Should I remove the timing belt and upfront pulley's and belts, then the intake manifold? Anyone off tomorrow and want to come up and help? Pizza and soft drinks? If it gets done BEER!!! Please guide me O'ye wonderful and full of the Yota knowledge followers of yotatech. -=Morphine=- __________________ '91 v6 3.0L 4x4 Pickup. Oversized Valves, Ceramic Downey Headers, K&N Cone Filter Knock off, ISR Mod, Pro Comps 33x12.50x15's, 2" BL, Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer,Bilstein's in the corners, Acura Bucket Seats, Custom dye'd Black carpet! Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP HU, 4" 2-way Pioneer TS-G1040R, 6.5" 4-way Pioneer TS-A1681R, Sub in progress!!

02-09-2005, 06:33 AM	#12 (permalink)
Bumpin' Yota Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 3,639	Agreed, and yes that lower intake plenum has the #2 idler for the timing belt attached to it. Pull the timing belt like nunsa said, (after setting the engine to TDC) then attack you cam gears (goodluck hehehehehe they are nasty SOBs to get off) only then can you take the rear timing covers off, then the fuel lines/rails/injectors, then lower intake. I did find a place online that sells new heads that are ported polished with oversized intake and exhuast valves, AND have 4 cam profiles for this engine!!! The heads come already set up to go. The cost however is 1200 + 600 core charge!! :eek: __________________ 3vze, 4x4, sr5, 90, auto, LSD 2x dB Drag World Finalist 2003 Nopi Nat. Street B champ 2004 SBN Street C champ 2004 SBN Advncd NW Champ 2004 Former WR Holder in NW. SPL: 159.8db @ 42hz In loving memory of Jamie Riggs 5/15/85 - 10/8/04 Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 02-09-2005 at 06:34 AM.

02-09-2005, 09:41 AM	#13 (permalink)
Morphine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Moreno Valley, Ca Posts: 565	thanks, now back to the wrenching. Ok, timing belt and accessories are next. I already set TDC and marked it, so I'm good there. I've heard from many sources to replace the knock sensor and wire now so that's been added to the list. Bumpin' yota - Out of my price. Thats almost the amount that this repair is gonna cost me. I would like to check them out if you have a link. Curiosity killed the called. I have carboard and post-it notes labeling everything and my digicam is going crazy. Putting here back together is going to be a PITA. Is there an acceptable number of parts that can be leftoff and she'll still run fine? j/k -=Morphine=- __________________ '91 v6 3.0L 4x4 Pickup. Oversized Valves, Ceramic Downey Headers, K&N Cone Filter Knock off, ISR Mod, Pro Comps 33x12.50x15's, 2" BL, Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer,Bilstein's in the corners, Acura Bucket Seats, Custom dye'd Black carpet! Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP HU, 4" 2-way Pioneer TS-G1040R, 6.5" 4-way Pioneer TS-A1681R, Sub in progress!!

02-09-2005, 10:23 AM	#14 (permalink)
4Hummer Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Canada Posts: 1,975	You'll LOVE your skyjacker Shocks (I do) DOnt foget to replace the steering stablizer while your at it. __________________ Michael 1991 4Runner 22RE. CHOP www.obsessiveoffroadclub.com

02-09-2005, 08:15 PM	#15 (permalink)
Morphine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Moreno Valley, Ca Posts: 565	Projects getting bigger than I thought Ok, with so much torn off the engine I decided to take a stab at some body work while I'm at it. In tearing down my 3vze I've found the fuel injectors (2 of them) were held to the electrical connector with zip ties. Completely fouled up I'll be sending them for a cleaning and comlete flow test to Cruzinperformance. Heads will be going to the shop on friday. Here are some more pics... Timing belt Is this the knock sensor? Valve covers off Dirty and carbon/crap build up. Start to work on the body Close up of the dent fron behind the fender __________________ '91 v6 3.0L 4x4 Pickup. Oversized Valves, Ceramic Downey Headers, K&N Cone Filter Knock off, ISR Mod, Pro Comps 33x12.50x15's, 2" BL, Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer,Bilstein's in the corners, Acura Bucket Seats, Custom dye'd Black carpet! Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP HU, 4" 2-way Pioneer TS-G1040R, 6.5" 4-way Pioneer TS-A1681R, Sub in progress!!

02-09-2005, 08:48 PM	#16 (permalink)
Bumpin' Yota Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 3,639	Niiice! Good luck with that crank pully and the cam pullys! That website you wanted that has: Performance Heads w/4 cam lobe options Big Bore TBs Forged cranks Forged rods Cast race prepped rods Forged pistons Moly ring Head Studs ----- something you and I should get 3vze STROKER KIT!! That site gives me ALL kinds of ideas!! EDIT: Whoops forgot the URL...LOL http://toyotaperformance.com/3_0l.htm Anyone got a few grand I can have? __________________ 3vze, 4x4, sr5, 90, auto, LSD 2x dB Drag World Finalist 2003 Nopi Nat. Street B champ 2004 SBN Street C champ 2004 SBN Advncd NW Champ 2004 Former WR Holder in NW. SPL: 159.8db @ 42hz In loving memory of Jamie Riggs 5/15/85 - 10/8/04 Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 02-09-2005 at 08:49 PM.

02-09-2005, 08:51 PM	#17 (permalink)
Bumpin' Yota Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 3,639	PS - yes that's the knock sensor. You should REALLY change out those steel freeze plugs....I bet they are rusting like a mofo... __________________ 3vze, 4x4, sr5, 90, auto, LSD 2x dB Drag World Finalist 2003 Nopi Nat. Street B champ 2004 SBN Street C champ 2004 SBN Advncd NW Champ 2004 Former WR Holder in NW. SPL: 159.8db @ 42hz In loving memory of Jamie Riggs 5/15/85 - 10/8/04

02-09-2005, 08:52 PM	#18 (permalink)
dragon564 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Atsugi Japan Posts: 347	Morph, Sorry man I forgot to send you this really cool web site. You can print out the steps for taking apart the head and many other things. http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d8017957f.jsp it is should be one line in the address bar with no spaces and type it just like you see it here. I have printed it out a couple of times (only the part for the 3vz) and have the pages real handy while I working. I have checked them against the chiltons I have; and for the most part excatly the same. the printed pages are cool cause I do not have to worry about greasy finger prints on the import parts of the book. Your tracking right...good luck

02-09-2005, 08:54 PM	#19 (permalink)
KING Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: PEORIA, AZ Posts: 1,853	Replace knock sensor and wire when doing t-belt replacemnt?

02-09-2005, 09:02 PM	#20 (permalink)
dragon564 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Atsugi Japan Posts: 347	Morph, sorry as I read it online it hacked up the web address. let me try again www1.autozone.com/servlet/Uibroker?ForwardPage= /az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/95/7f/ 0900823d8017957f.jsp http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB.../cds/en_us/090 0823d/80/17/95/7f/0900823d8017957f.jsp try that...should work better Dragon Last edited by dragon564; 02-09-2005 at 09:06 PM. Reason: web address incomplete

02-09-2005, 09:02 PM	#21 (permalink)
Morphine Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Moreno Valley, Ca Posts: 565	Encouragement Thanks for the link Bumpin'Yota I've checked them out. Brass freeze plugs are ordered as well as what seems like everything else. I contacted Toyota stealership and they quoted me: part no. 82219-89103 wire sensor for 11.47 part no. 89615-20010 knock sensor for 179.28 Can anyone recommend a better price or place or just stay with the stealership? Man Ifeel so vulnerable just revealing my dirty/abuse engine to everyone here. Bumpin' if i'm ever in your area again we'll have to get together and wrench/drink/yota Dragon thanks for the link, my haynes manual will appreciate it (but my printer will no longer be my friend after I'm done printing it out a 100 or so times). Thanks -=Morphine=- __________________ '91 v6 3.0L 4x4 Pickup. Oversized Valves, Ceramic Downey Headers, K&N Cone Filter Knock off, ISR Mod, Pro Comps 33x12.50x15's, 2" BL, Skyjacker Steering Stabilizer,Bilstein's in the corners, Acura Bucket Seats, Custom dye'd Black carpet! Stereo: Pioneer DEH-P7600MP HU, 4" 2-way Pioneer TS-G1040R, 6.5" 4-way Pioneer TS-A1681R, Sub in progress!!

02-09-2005, 09:15 PM	#22 (permalink)
Bumpin' Yota Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 3,639	Hey if you need the Toyota Factory Service Manual for removing the heads and reinstalling them as well asdissassembly, just gimme an email addy that can take a BIG attachment. Lots of pics (ok drawings lol) are included. __________________ 3vze, 4x4, sr5, 90, auto, LSD 2x dB Drag World Finalist 2003 Nopi Nat. Street B champ 2004 SBN Street C champ 2004 SBN Advncd NW Champ 2004 Former WR Holder in NW. SPL: 159.8db @ 42hz In loving memory of Jamie Riggs 5/15/85 - 10/8/04

02-09-2005, 09:16 PM	#23 (permalink)
dragon564 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Atsugi Japan Posts: 347	Morph, don't feel bad bout the motor.... I could always post the picture of my old one with the number one piston so low in the cyl that you can tell the con rod is just not there.....Your in California so we can just say it like this..... Yes it the prior care provider could have down more, but counseling is being conducted, and everything will be better in a few more sessions

02-10-2005, 02:00 PM	#24 (permalink)
KING Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: PEORIA, AZ Posts: 1,853	Perhaps I ought to rephrase my question because of comprehendible issues. When is it mandatory to replace the knock senser? When doing doing the timing belt replacement or when doing engine re-build? Is it not quite clear as to when to replace it at the above mention. I will be replacing my timing belt in the next few segments and I would like to know if to tackle it then or not. Highly appreciate a generous and non-effortless response.

02-10-2005, 03:37 PM	#25 (permalink)
Eric Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Fresno Posts: 192	I'm wondering the same thing. I want to make sure my knock sensor is not working before I plump down 200 on a new one... on another note, everyone is saying to ground the knock sensor wire to the block. this seams wierd since there is only one wire comming off the knock sensor, and it doesn't look thick enough to be shielded. can you guys give better details to this grounding deal? __________________ Karl Kraus --Education is a crutch with which the foolish attack the wise to prove that they are not idiots.

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