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I've always had a wee bit of throttle stick... And it only did it when truck was warm it'd stick at about 1400-1600 every now and then. Never when cold.
But as of yesterday it's very bad. Almost every time I let off the gas. Blipping the throttle sometimes helps. But it'll stuck between 2000-3000.. Even if I let off throttle at 1000 it'll jump to 2-3grand.
so far I pulled off throttle body and thoroughly cleaned it. Inspected and lubed cable which is in great shape. Readjusted TPS (TPS only 6weeks old) Oh and the throttle return spring/shaft only sticks while truck is running. If truck is off the spring snaps shaft back into place and closes throttle no problem. Here's a video:
Does your rig have a throttle opener? https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...estion-288183/ I'm not real familiar with the 22re, RustyPigeon says it's auto-trans only on the 22re, and I can't tell from your video.
IF you have a throttle opener, that would explain why it only sticks while running (the opener lifts it off the sticking point when there is no vacuum). So use a vacuum pump or otherwise to take the opener out of the equation for a second. I'm guessing you have the stop screw set so that the throttle plate closes too far and sticks. You compensate for the stop screw with the idle control, so you'll need to adjust both correctly.
I always lube the throttle linkage every oil change if not more often.
Have you looked where the cable comes through the firewall ??
I have not, but I will. I know it's the shaft/spring that's sticking because when it sticks there is complete slack in the cable..
Scope103- that is strange. I don't have a throttle opener... Although I should because my truck was an automatic but I did the 5spd swap. So I don't have dash pot either hah..
After work in going to disconnect cable from shaft and see if that helps. It very well could be something simple like that. I always assume the worst. (Wore out shaft bushings)
There should be screws on the throttle mechanism, which you can tighten to hold the throttle plate slightly open. This might increase the idle, which you then reduce with the idle adjustment.
When you disconnected the throttle cable, did you find that the throttle plate ONLY stuck when fully closed? Or did it stick elsewhere as well?
This spring would help with your return as you are missing it. Not sure if it is used on the automatics but would think so. With the cable disconnected, does it operate smoothly? Might need to pull the Throttle Body off and give it a good cleaning again. It should snap close when not installed on the Plenum. Is the spring on the TB installed correctly?
Scope I did adjust throttle stop screw with no luck..
My TB is pretty much spotless, I cleaned the sh** out of it.
Terrys87 yes I did try that last night. After disconnecting cable from throttle body there was no stick at all. So that narrows it down to cable or return spring. I truly believe it's that spring that I'm missing!!
ultimately tho you need to get rid of that early throttle body/intake, and swap in the later intake system, it has the superior warm-up capability... however it doesn't have a return spring, other than what's around the throttle body shaft... i've been trying to figure out how to rig up a second spring.
ultimately tho you need to get rid of that early throttle body/intake, and swap in the later intake system, it has the superior warm-up capability... however it doesn't have a return spring, other than what's around the throttle body shaft... i've been trying to figure out how to rig up a second spring.
What are the benefits of upgrading to later model? I have everything from my donor 1989 4Runner.. Is that late enough? It's quite a bit different than my 87. I do believe 89 is when the started making some changes. It's got the upgraded iacv valve..
the main benefit is with losing that old iacv setup, although some people claim that the straighter intake plenum opening allows for better airflow: http://siestaoffroad.com/tbody.html
i'm using the old throttle body cable, didn't have to swap that out, just cut the tip of it off with a die grinder, and drilled out a dorman help barrel nut.
the lower intake runner coming off of the head is the same for both, but if you happen to have one of the lower intakes that has two holes for temp sending units, that's the one to run.
you'll need the newer center pipe section, that connects the tb to the afm, and maybe the angled boot as well, i can't remember that part for sure.
05-04-2015, 07:59 PM
