stock 85 runner suspension
#1
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stock 85 runner suspension
This is retarded but, I am now only thinking to get my motor work done and maybe a body lift to clear the 31s that I have. How do the factory springs do offroad? and do I need a bl to clear 31s? I am gonna end up putting the majority of my build money in the motor, so there won't be much left for hysteer and the associated ruf and 63 swap I wanted to do. Thanks guys.
Bdog
Bdog
#3
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31s will rub most likely, back of the front wheel well. Either a 1" body lift or 1"-2" longer spring shackles would help clear the tires:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ift.shtml#GenI
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml
Stock springs are not terribly great off-road, limited up-travel in front and not a lot of down travel either. The OME 2" lift springs (http://www.arbusa.com/) is a decent option for a mild lift and 31s":
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ift.shtml#GenI
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/Shackles.shtml
Stock springs are not terribly great off-road, limited up-travel in front and not a lot of down travel either. The OME 2" lift springs (http://www.arbusa.com/) is a decent option for a mild lift and 31s":
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If I go with the ruf
in the stock spring location can I use stock steering? I also have a set of procomp 4" that are prolly sagged to 3" and the truck that I got those off of ran push-pull, it was a mud truck but just wondering. Trying to find something to fit my budget and time frame. Thanks.
Bdog
Bdog
#6
Bdog,
I was in the same boat as you early this year, went with the 2" OME kit works excellent and clears 32x11.50s easily
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/new-me-85-runner-need-lift-tire-advice-83962/
Good luck
I was in the same boat as you early this year, went with the 2" OME kit works excellent and clears 32x11.50s easily
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115/new-me-85-runner-need-lift-tire-advice-83962/
Good luck
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can I still use the stock front shackles?
I may only try and fix the problem with the motor rather than a full rebuild/hy-performance/blueprint that my mechanic was trying to enlighten me with. I certainly see the value of the rebuild, but I also need/want flexable suspension, that is why I bought the truck in the first place. I have some sort of knock in the motor and i guess I wil tell him to fix just that, it is in the top end and the motor only has 180000 on it. Is their a better steering setup than the push-pull with out the expense of the hysteer (TG hysteer and used steering box $539). If that is the only way to go then I will just have to sacrifice and do it. If I run the push-pull, the torque rod will limit flex, right? is that what you mean by "protecting the steering rod"? Again thanks guys!
Bdog
Bdog
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#8
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Yes, torque rod will protect the steering arm and drag link from damage due to extreme axle movement. Stock springs probably not a worry, but if you go to a 3"-4" lift spring with decent articulation, you'll snap the steering arm off if it binds. You can get an adjustable draglink and torque rod for a little better setup, then flip the ball on the steering J-arm to the top for a little more travel. Or keep your eye out for a used IFS steering box and some day upgrade to crossover, you won't regret it.
#10
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Probably find it on the Pirate forum.
Look at the J-arm on the dirver's side. See how the drag link attaches under tha arm?
Well, at full droop, assuming decent travel, the drag link binds on the down-facing ball and bends the steering arm up, Do that enough and it breaks at the most inopportune time. So for lifted trucks, you grind out the weld and press the ball stud out and put it in from above, gains an inch or two of height in the process. Then an S-shaped adjustable draglink helps with the end angles:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml
But you can't really do crossover steering without approx. 3-4" of lift.
Look at the J-arm on the dirver's side. See how the drag link attaches under tha arm?
Well, at full droop, assuming decent travel, the drag link binds on the down-facing ball and bends the steering arm up, Do that enough and it breaks at the most inopportune time. So for lifted trucks, you grind out the weld and press the ball stud out and put it in from above, gains an inch or two of height in the process. Then an S-shaped adjustable draglink helps with the end angles:
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_suspension.shtml
But you can't really do crossover steering without approx. 3-4" of lift.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 12-05-2006 at 08:38 AM.
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Not sure how clear it is, I'll try and take a better Profile shot. I'm rolling on 31s and I haven't had any issues w/ rubbing. However, i do hate the "sagging" look of the rear of my rig, so I'm considering getting a "Helper" spring to increase my rear ride height.
MOmo
MOmo
Last edited by ae86MOmo; 12-05-2006 at 09:49 AM.
#13
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You can probably fit 31x10.50s on a solid axle truck with stock wheels and some fender trimming. A buddy of mine with an '85 had rubbing issues until we stuck on 1" longer spring shackles (BFG MTs). He did have aftermarket wheels, probably 15x8, unknown backspacing, though. On an IFS truck/4Runner, 31s fit fine unless you run a lot less backspacing or much wider wheel than stock.
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Again thanks
you guys are all very helpful, I only have until August and then I have to roll out to Wyoming for a year at Wyo-tech, so whenI get done with my chassis fab training maybe I can return the favor.
Bdog
Bdog
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ae86MOmo, I would recommend getting a set of slightly longer shackles in the rear. I have that setup on mine and it levels the truck well, without the stiffness of an AAL. Easy and cheap to install too.
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