Hi

I'm new here

I'm looking for instructions to replace an exhaust manifold on a 22re engine fro my 95 dx short bed?

any help?
the head gasket was recently replaced so it has been "off" recently

Thanks!

 

first soak all the bolts with pb blaster for a few hours then take the 2 14mm bolts of the cat then with some really long extensions take the 3 14mm bolts off the down pipe then take the heat sheild off the manifold then take the 2 bolts off the air injection pipe then take all the bolts of then manifold wich are 14mm also sand down the gasket area .... your going to need new bolts from toyota

 

I would just take a grinder to the CAT bolts and replace them with stainless. If yours look like mine, a wrench wont even grab the spereical rust balls that the bolt heads have become.

 

Well thanks a lot to those who replied, I was able to do the job!
Not as fast as I woul d have liked but runs pretty quiet now, got some torque back too

a great website this is!

 

when ever your under the hood just snug the manifold bolts that way they wont work them self lose

 

i do it this way...

unbolt the exhaust clamp on the bellhousing, then remove the 3 nuts from the downpipe flange(often times the factory lock nuts will be siezed to the studs and pull the studs out with them). after that, you can remove the heat shield and unbolt the 8 manifold bolts, and the 2 for the air injection pipe.

most napa/other parts stores that sell dorman hardware in the orange bins will have m10x1.25 studs available. better to get ones that are too long vs too short if necessary. then for each stud, i get a flat washer, a hardened lock washer, and a regular nut. seems to hold things on there quite well. i bet an all metal lock nut(stover nut) would work even better, but they're hard to find in metric, much less in a wierd 10x1.25 thread size.

 

Kyle, since you seem to be the 22r/re guru got a question for ya.... I am putting my LCE header on next week and will be replacing the studs. What is the best way to get the studs tight in the block? Double nuts? Do you use locktite (probally too hot huh?) or would some marine grade never-seize be a good idea? Any insight would be appreciated.

 

on my 22re i used a flat washer then a lockwasher then the nut that came with the stud kit and it stayed tight

 

Won't this eventually strip out the threads in the aluminum head??

 

i meant to say once in a great while not all the time

 

I've had an ongoing situation where the rear cylinder can be heard firing when the engine is cold. The exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. I tightened the bolts on the back of the exhaust manifold, and it went away for a while, but it's back. I think the head got a little stripped when the engine was overhauled. I don't think it will help me to tighten. I think it will probably take a helicoil to fix it.

 

Also if you have a leak it will eat the gasket and make the leak worse...

 

I read a post by EB over on 4x4wire about drilling and tapping for an SAE thread instead of metric as an alternative to heli-coil. Unless you already have the heli-coil stuff this method might save you a bit of money.

*edit* I found the thread.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showth...=&sb=5&o=&vc=1

 

I used stud remover tools to get them on there. If you were worried about it the gold high-temp anti-seize would be good. I put em in there dry but I live in texas so we don't see much rust. The remover cams sat on the ledge so they didn't scuff up the threads. If you don't have said remover tool double nutting is the best way to go. A lot less risk of thread damage.

I put the same header and their complete exhaust system on my 2wd. Let me know if you need other info...

 

our manifold had a 1/8" warp. Always leaked at rear cyl.

We replaced the manifold (napa new). Also had to helicoil (2 stripped, did all while we were there and had the tools) and new studs.