Hey guys, I've been lurking for a while. Bought a 1st gen a while back but sold it and now have another one, 88 V6 SR5.

I bought a used trailmaster lift w/o shocks and a 3rd member with 5.29's installed already. Question is...What shocks can I use for the trailmaster lift? How hard is it to install? What rear setup? blocks? springs? to match the front lift? Do I need anything else like steering stuff or long brake lines? What happens if I still the front 5.29's and buy/install the rear 5.29's a little later? Would that be okay to drive on. Anything other must have items I need to get these parts on?

Sorry for a million questions. Cant wait to get this thing started.

 

If you want to install it, go ahead. Assuming you have manual hubs that is. But, DO NOT lock up the front until you get the 5.29s in the rear. The rear will be trying to move faster than the front, and you will break something. :cry: I strongly suggest waiting until you can do it all at once. That way at least you will still have the option of 4wd.

 

To tell you the truth I have no idea if the hubs are manual or auto locking......how does your rig drive with the lift and 35's? The truck feels like it sways in the back, I guess that is normal because I feel that in my dad's stock 02 Tacoma?

 

On your front rims in the center, is there a circle that spins from "free" to "lock"? Manual hubs. If not, you have auto hubs and will just see a center cap.
My truck drives great. Good shocks, 2 steering stabilizers, and extra leaf springs in the rear. No sway.

 

Unless you have an auto (ugh) you will hate life with 5.29s and 33s. Try 4:88s

The lift kit will come with rear stuff to match the front. You only have to decide if blocks are okay or spend extra to get rear springs. Or you compromise with Add-a-leafs. It should come with shocks too, but if not, any shocks for that amount of lift (i.e - 4" longer shocks for 4"lift) will do, just tell the guy at the counter what you have and he'll get you what you need. Which shocks is up to you - features and ride quality are entirely subjective.

The front and rear gears MUST be the same before you can put it in 4wd (and move.) This is not optional.

Mine rides better lifted than they do stock. Get a good alignment after you put the kit on, and don't go wider than 8.5" for rims and you'll smilin. (Wider rims, like 10", cause handling quirks that I personally can't live with. Others are happy with them (fat, happy and stupid...) little joke there...

If you don't have manual hubs (as above) you may have auto hubs or you may have ADD.

 

I need to check which hubs I have. But I am going to be putting 35's on so I assume the 5.29's would suffice? The lift kit is used and did not come with rear lift or shocks. I was thinking about putting 15x10's on there. Does anyone have 15x10 and seem to drive okay on the highway?

 

35's and 5.29's are perfect. You can lock the hubs w/ the different gears, just don't put that t-case in 4wd or you'll have shrapnel in your tush.

 

You have a manual? With 35's, 5.29s put you back as close to a stock feel as you can get. Your speedometer/odometer will be almost right on.
I have 15x10's on mine and I like them. But then again, my tires are 12.50, so they stick out past the rim a bit. Not sure what these "handling quirks" are. I do not notice any. Maybe somebody wants to chime in? Flamedx4?

 

I have a 4in trail disaster lift on my 88xcab on 15x10s with 33's, blocks in the rear. I hate it rides horrible, I suggest spings in the rear not blocks. Wheels should be fine as long as all your steering components are in good shape(most likely not) Otherwise steering wheel will shake like crazy.

 

what steering components should i take a look at?

 

Well I found in most all high mileage cars that the steering box gets loose, pitman & idler arm wears out, and usually the problem is the tie rod ends are worn out.
How much play is in your steering right now?