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the dirt cheap SAS........well close

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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 08:07 PM
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Napoleon047's Avatar
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From: Columbia, MO
the dirt cheap SAS........well close

ok, well here we go:

axle $100
gears and locker $380
rotors $80
steering arms $150
tie rod and draglink $100
ford shock towers $ 22
12" travel shocks $ 40
knuckle rebuild kit $ 75
misc steel, bolts etc $ 100
=========================
total: $1047

IFS stuff sold - $ 550

=========================
= $547
how does it perform?



more details to follow
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 08:19 PM
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From: benton city wa
Im shooting to do mine for under a grand total, you got me beat i think!
wade
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Old Dec 12, 2005 | 09:53 PM
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How did you get so much for your IFS!?
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:20 AM
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Originally Posted by dannyh
How did you get so much for your IFS!?
I'm interested to see how this turns out.

Chris
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 04:51 AM
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Hubs and a geared front diff with a True Trac.

Then add BJ spacers, not too bad at all.

Looks good Peter.

You still have Stockfields, right? At least this includes a locked diff.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 06:53 AM
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From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Hubs and a geared front diff with a True Trac.

Then add BJ spacers, not too bad at all.

Looks good Peter.

You still have Stockfields, right? At least this includes a locked diff.
yep, i would have been better off to SAS it in the first place cashwise, whenever you re-sell parts you only get 50-75% of their new value if you are lucky.

yep, stockers for now. CV unlimited sells some stock replacements that have a different hardening than the stockers for $20 each on ebay so i figure i can break a few before i upgrade to something beefier. im only running 33"s for now anyway.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:00 AM
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From: Columbia, MO
the front spring hanger i built myself.
the shackle tubes that go through the frame, i sourced my own tubing. got a foot of it for $9 and that was more than enough for both tubes.
the frame jigs i borrowed.
shackles i made myself.
the front springs are the stock rear springs with the bottom leaf from the stock springs that came with the axle.

front driveshaft:
i clearanced the stock IFS front CV: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/
and then built a square driveshaft. it works, and it was cheap and i can go 40 mph or so before it really starts vibrating.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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From: Columbia, MO
i almost forgot, orielly's had the brake line extensions (stock rear 85 brake hose) for $9 each and change.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:03 AM
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From: Deep Gap, NC
So are you already done with this? Where the heck is the buildup thread? Where's all the pics?

Chris
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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From: Columbia, MO
axle fresh from the junkyard


hubs, bearings etc:


started cleanup and paint


the magical substance:


getting close:


putting the chevies in:


IFS TRE vs chevy TRE



done:
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 07:17 AM
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From: Deep Gap, NC
Nice work man!

Chris
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:13 PM
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From: Ft. Collins, Co
Hell yea get it done!

btw how much/where did you get your magical substance for?
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:46 PM
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From: Westminster, CO
That's awesome. Glad to see that it can be done for cheap if you just buy from the right places.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:52 PM
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From: HBCA
Dam that is cheap, I stopped counting at 3K. Great Job!

What did you do for a front driveshaft?
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:55 PM
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it obviously can be done for cheap if you are willing to source/make alot of the parts yourself. Congrats on the low cost SAS.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 07:36 AM
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From: Columbia, MO
thanks guys

the chem-dip i got at my local autozone. i usually just use spray cans of brake cleaner to clean parts, but $2/can adds up quickly. i bought this gallon can for $12 and it has a handy dip basket inside that makes cleaning parts a snap.

read post #7 for driveshaft details
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 07:51 AM
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From: Columbia, MO
Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
it obviously can be done for cheap if you are willing to source/make alot of the parts yourself. Congrats on the low cost SAS.
the more you can do yourself, the cheaper of course, but you can always cut down on the bling to save some cash.

for instance: marlin crawler's SAS kit is arguably the best on the market and its $1300.
by substituting:
ford shock towers ($22) for shock hoops ($69) you save $47
gabriel shocks ($40) for bilstein shocks ($150) you save $110
rubber brake hose ($20) for SS brake hose ($60) you save $40
stock rear springs (Free) for marlin's front springs ($269) you save $269
= savings of $466

now, im not trying to hate on their kit. if i had the cash, i probably would have bought it myself, but being on a budget, i had to cut corners where i could without making it ghetto. if it was a trailer queen, thats another story, but since i drive it on the highway at 70mph, it needs to steer and stop under all conditions.

people on this site have the tendency to say "you cant do a proper SAS for under $X,XXX." i say you can and you can do it without comprimising safety.

Last edited by Napoleon047; Dec 14, 2005 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 08:17 AM
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From: HBCA
Originally Posted by Napoleon047
thanks guys
read post #7 for driveshaft details
Sorry, that was pretty lame of me to miss that.

Do you set up your own gears?

Someone told me that the Ford shock towers can cause frame cracking problems, not sure why. ever hear of this?

And, Really Nice looking truck!
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 09:29 AM
  #19  
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I really dig this and it shows what you can do on a budget.

That being said, you have a lot of resources and skill as far as making parts. Most people do not have that. Almost universally those who ask do not.

Quite literally you are into the project for only parts, as in raw steel for the most part.

I commend you for showing what a motivated and skilled swapper can do on a budget.

For those going off the shelf, it is still possible, but parts like diff and the swap kit add up quick.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 03:02 PM
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From: Waverly hall, ga
who's steering arms did you use???how did you make the ierod and draglink or who did you buy it from....what size tube and bolts did you use for the shackle through the frame??
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