Custom rear shock mounts
#1
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bellingham, Washington and Ketchikan, Alaska
Custom rear shock mounts
In prep for putting on 63" chevy springs on the rear of my truck (stock springs and AAL's suck), I decided to build a new rear shock mount setup to maximize the use my shocks. I used 2 muffler clamps, 4 u-bolts, a steel plate, assorted nuts and bolts, and some scrap metal we had lying around. The parts cost me about $25. I did have to hack off my exhaust pipe at the muffler because it was getting too close to the shock body. Its pretty ghetto, but its strong enough and it works
NOTE: this is just a prototype(sp?), I will probally make some adjustments after my new springs are on.
NOTE: this is just a prototype(sp?), I will probally make some adjustments after my new springs are on.
#6
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bellingham, Washington and Ketchikan, Alaska
Looks like im gonna have to redo alot of this stuff....
The passenger side shock hit on the brake soft-line bracket and dented the shock pretty good
. Also the passenger bracket's weld cracked, and the bracket is starting to twist. The upper plate slightly bent around the cross member.
All this could have been prevented if i would have just though about this stuff first. Oh well, you live you learn.
The passenger side shock hit on the brake soft-line bracket and dented the shock pretty good
. Also the passenger bracket's weld cracked, and the bracket is starting to twist. The upper plate slightly bent around the cross member. All this could have been prevented if i would have just though about this stuff first. Oh well, you live you learn.
#7

First, I would weld the plate to prevent twisting. Also, I would use GUSSETTS.
[/QUOTE]Ok, now, I would weld the dog snot out of the shock mounts on the axle. However be very careful so that you do not burn through the tin of the Toyota Axle. Ok not tin, but compared to a Dana 60 it is Tin. I would make a brake line, after you put your new springs on, because of the increased flex. I believe you do not want anything over 2' in flex hose.
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#9
I think I would stand them up striaghter if you can, you will get better results
anything over 40 degrees and the shocks have a hard time doing thier job, something to think about when you rework them
anything over 40 degrees and the shocks have a hard time doing thier job, something to think about when you rework them
#12
Originally Posted by CBIguy
I think I would stand them up straighter if you can, you will get better results
anything over 40 degrees and the shocks have a hard time doing thier job, something to think about when you rework them 
anything over 40 degrees and the shocks have a hard time doing thier job, something to think about when you rework them 
#13
Originally Posted by Blizzard
Sorry for the hijack but... MellamoPOUND, what does your nick means? In Spanish "Me llamo" means "My name is" hehehe.
David
David
#14
Originally Posted by K'sToy
Uhh ihtink you guys are missing the point to inverting the shocks. True u dont want to invert them TOO much but the whole reason for inverting a shock is to fit a bigger shock wich allows more travel. Yes sidehilling and driving on the road will be a lil wobblie, but then again a toyota pickup isnt a formula 1 car.
Last edited by Piett; Jul 1, 2005 at 01:24 PM.
#15
Sidehilling is the reason many people are moving away from angled shocks. The shocks can't control the floppiness of a rig when sidehilling. The result is more likelihood of rolling.
And the angle yamaha has is pretty extreme.
And the angle yamaha has is pretty extreme.
#16
Originally Posted by MellamoPOUND
haha everybody asks this. It means my name is pound. My initials are lb just like a 5lb bag of rice. My friend named me pound a long time ago and its kept with me. Back to the shocks 


Yo me llamo David
#18
Originally Posted by K'sToy
So then explain to me why so many people invert the shocks. is it to get longer shocks in, but why would u want to do that if it doesnt travel? With the shocks up[ and down they will bottom out quicker than when they are inverted=less travel. Longer shocks inverted dont bottom out as quick cuz they got more room to travel.
For optimal performance shocks should be mounted vertically and as close as possible to the tire. The shock itself should travel as much as possible because that will maximize dampening. Lots of people angle the shocks, but it's just not the best way to do it.
For more discussion:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160790
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121928
#19
Originally Posted by MellamoPOUND
Didn't FearToy do something like this to his 3rd gen? Anyone have any pictures?
Originally Posted by Yamaha+Toyota=Fun
Looks like im gonna have to redo alot of this stuff....
#20
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From: Bellingham, Washington and Ketchikan, Alaska
Yeah I tore all that stuff off. It rode like crap cause of the shock angle, Im just going to wait till I get my spring situtation figured out before I start dickin around with it anymore.




