Whats up with torque wrenches? The first time I ever used one was yesterday on the valve covers after I replaced the gaskets. I kind of figured somthing was wrong when I kept tightening but the wrench was only regestering around 1-2 ft-lbs. then what I specificaly was trying to avoid happened. Now I have to tap the bolt that broke off and get a new one.

Why didn't the wrench register the correct ft-lbs?

 

YOUR VALVE COVERS!!!!!!!!!!!! Bolts that small dont need to be torqued. what type of wench are you using

 

Are you sure the specs called for ft-lbs? It sounds like you were supposed to use in-lbs.

 

Ok good I didnt misread that... yeah I would say in-lbs.

 

The torque spec for the valve cover bolts is 4 ft-lbs or 48 in-lbs. Just did mine a couple of months ago...

 

Man do I feel stupid! But the Chiltons I have In front of me says:


"Place the valve cover and gaskets in place on the head and install the small retaining bolts. Tighten them evenly only to 5-6 ft. lbs. (7-8Nm), do not overtighten."


Could the bolt just be bad or did I use the Wrench wrong?


Thanks for sparing me the "What a Dumb A...." coments, Help would be much appriciated.
Duec66

 

I used the long wrench with the big wide scale on it.

 

It's possible that it was a bad bolt, if you didn't overtighten. I've read somewhere on another thread that someone also broke a few bolts from the valve covers with about 5 ft-lbs of torque.

Anyway, your concern now is to get it out. Try using an easy out, but make sure you don't select one that is too small, otherwise it may break off and get lodged in the stud. You'll have a bigger problem then. If you decide to use an easy out, make sure you cover up the camshaft well, otherwise you may get metal shavings in there during drilling.

Good Luck!!

 

I broke a few valve cover bolts during my HG rebuild. Same as you, they just weren't making torque then all of a sudden, snap. I guess they just lose thier strenght after a while. I replaced all of them with bolts from Lowes.

 

needle wrenches arent very accurate... and the good clicker ones are expensive and normally wont even do anything under 40 foot pounds on a 1/2" drive

 

I got me a 1/4" clicker wrench for under $30 that goes up to 200 inch-lbs. Works very well.

 

I only use torque wrenches on the very importang things like bearing caps, head bolts, ect. All the other things I just do by hand especially if there 1/4" drive bolts.

Nice Stafford by the way

 

Thanks guys I think I'll do what troy did and replace them all. Hopfully I use the easy out correctly.

 

If the bolt and head threads were clean, you might get lucky and be able to spin out the borken bolt once you remove the valve cover. As for the torque wrench thing, I use two different wrenches, a 1/2 inch clicker for the 'big' stuff, and a 3/8 clicker for the small stuff. I know the factory manual lists a torque value for just about every fastener on the vehicle, and it's not wrong to torque them properly. But most techs only torque the important bolts. Everything else is done by 'feel', which is subjective and most often learned by trial and error. Good luck with it.

 

I second that: try using vise grip pliers first, then a stud remover second, and finally an easy out as a last resort. Remember to cover the cam before you mess around with anything that may allow small metal fragments to fly around.

 

Another possibility is to cut a slot in the stud to back it out with a screw driver.

 

Wow those are great Ideas ill try them and get back to let you know how it worked.

 

I got it out by using the vice grips. It came right out.
Thanks for the help. live and learn I guess.

 

Good to hear. Now go get some new bolts, and try it again only with a little less 'torque".