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FROR trans/tcase mount and skid install (pics)

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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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FROR trans/tcase mount and skid install (pics)

thought i'd post up some pics of the install of my new trans/tcase mounts with skid plate. Bought it from Front Range Offroad Fabrication . They shipped real quick, no problems with the customer service.

Its really beefy, the pictures on the website dont do it justice till you hold onto it. This thing is bulletproof. I'm going to take it to have the end pieces welded on this week hopefully. I'll post up what i thought of the install. It comes already powder coated in a very nice copper color.


Last edited by NCSU-4runner; Jan 17, 2005 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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installed picture from the FROR website

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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 10:27 AM
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Schweeeeet!
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 12:24 PM
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I see he's changed the mounts a bit since I got mine.

You are going to like it.

Here's mine;

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Old Jan 20, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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I'm thinking about going this same route after I fully complete my drivetrain lift, but I've got a different idea for the skid plate. That's what I'm trying to figure out.

Chris
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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I got the crossmember installed last weekend, was very easy. I would expect with a stock setup the installation time would be less than an hour from start to finish. Mine took somewhat longer since my motor/trans/tcase was not PERFECTLY square relative to the frame due to the booty fabbed motor mounts i had made to place the supra motor, I cut them off and am in the process of making stronger ones that sit level and square

I didnt have my camera with me at the time and the truck is now off getting the new motor mounts and sliders fabbed up but ill post some after it comes back (if the damn weather ever lets up, its always freezing cold and snowing/icing whenever there is time to get things done )
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
I got the crossmember installed last weekend, was very easy. I would expect with a stock setup the installation time would be less than an hour from start to finish. Mine took somewhat longer since my motor/trans/tcase was not PERFECTLY square relative to the frame due to the booty fabbed motor mounts i had made to place the supra motor, I cut them off and am in the process of making stronger ones that sit level and square

I didnt have my camera with me at the time and the truck is now off getting the new motor mounts and sliders fabbed up but ill post some after it comes back (if the damn weather ever lets up, its always freezing cold and snowing/icing whenever there is time to get things done )
Nice, I hope to be joining you as soon as Brian and them get the kinks worked out of the 3rd gen 4runner model that includes the skid plate. I can't wait!

Chris
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 04:33 PM
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I like my FROR x-member+skid-plate, been running it for almost 5 years now, love the added clearance underneath with the drivetrain lift:

http://www.4Crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...aseCrossmember

Went front this sort of "belly":



To this:

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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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It made a world of difference out on the trail, didn't it Roger? I'm curious to hear how much of a difference it made for you if you have the time.

Chris
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 04:43 PM
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Unbelievable change, gaining 5.5" under the truck with no change in tire size, it is a whole different rig.

Here was a picture of the sort of things I used to get high-centered on, a ledge hardly half a tire high, maybe a 16" drop:




Now I can cruise over stuff like this:



I do hit the underside of the truck from time to time, but only rarely get hung up now, usually just slide over whatever I hit, sometimes w/o even knowing it, until I see the deep scratches in the powercoating on the skid plate later.
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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yea, this mod and the fuel cell inside the truck is going to give me INCREDIBLE underbelly clearance. I'll take pictures when i get the truck back
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 06:59 PM
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Seems like I read that the FROR t-case cross member/skid wouldn't work w/ dual cases and caused problems w/ the t-case mounted e-brake?

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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 07:54 PM
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I like that. Now I have another thing to add to my long wishlist
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Seems like I read that the FROR t-case cross member/skid wouldn't work w/ dual cases and caused problems w/ the t-case mounted e-brake?
Works fine w/ dual cases, you just set the brackets back farther on the frame to accomodate the 2nd case. For a t-case mounted e-brake, you would need to do a little work. First off the two things share some bolts and want to both be attached to the same place. So, you either need to modify the e-brake bracket to fit behind the t-case bracket or just cut the e-brake bracket down and weld it to the t-case bracket. I just run the stock e-brake for now, will be swapping to a rear disc /w integral e-brake in the future.
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
Seems like I read that the FROR t-case cross member/skid wouldn't work w/ dual cases and caused problems w/ the t-case mounted e-brake?


im going to use an electronic line lock on the rear disc brakes for an e-brake, the calipers i am using dont have an integrated parking brake
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 08:13 AM
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Thanks Roger! I've tried to explain the advantages to others without knowing first hand the substantial difference it's going to make, but it's hard for some to understand that gaining 5.5" like you mention is like going from a 33" tire to a 44" tire or going from 3" of lift to 8.5" of lift. What's nice is that this mod can achieved with only a 3" body lift and motor mount spacers directly from you.

Another thought for those wanting to keep a very low height to their rig is why not do a 3" body, no suspension lift, and do the drivetrain lift and gas tank relocation which will net them 2.5" more undercarriage clearance, yet be 1" lower than what most people do with a 3" suspension and 1" body lift? Just an idea!

Chris
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 08:21 AM
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thats all true, but you still have to improve your differential clearance as well, which can only come from larger tires. Having underbelly clearance is one step, but not having to dragging your axle over everything is important as well. Picking good lines helps, but isnt always going to work.

Last edited by NCSU-4runner; Jan 29, 2005 at 08:23 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2005 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
thats all true, but you still have to improve your differential clearance as well, which can only come from larger tires. Having underbelly clearance is one step, but not having to dragging your axle over everything is important as well.
And that's definitely true, but what's also nice is that someone could still run 285's with that setup too.

Chris
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
thats all true, but you still have to improve your differential clearance as well, which can only come from larger tires. Having underbelly clearance is one step, but not having to dragging your axle over everything is important as well. Picking good lines helps, but isnt always going to work.
you can always clearance the axle housing for a good inch of clearance. thats like going from 33s to 35s right there
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 07:25 AM
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You bet, that makes a huge difference by itself:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Clearanced

The old axle bottom and the shaved one:

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