So, I got this after seeing Lance's (Bighead) hiliftmounted in back (at least I think it was Lance) of his 4runner, based on his getting the idea from Steve S. This is a variation on that, cost about 5 bucks in parts, assuming you already have a hole saw drill bit (if not, add another 6 bucks for the bit. This mounting technique uses the stock tie-down loops in the back of the 4runner.

Step 1: Cut two 4 inch sections off a 2"x4". Use a hole saw to cut out a 2"1/4" hole. My hole saw bit wasn't deep enough to do it one shot, so I had to come from both sides to get the center plug cut out. Take the center plug and take a larger drill bit and drill out the center.

 

Step 2: Get a hook bolt with a threaded end, and a couple of wing nuts that'll fit on it. Using a cut-off disc, trim off enough of the hook so that when it is inserted into the cargo tie down the top of the bolt will extend up above the wooden block (you'll see what I mean in a later picture).

 

Step 3: Put it all together! The wing nut will tension the hook on the tie-down loop, holding it all firmly in place. Until I get a polyurethane bushing and a couple of washers, the upper wooden block will have to do for now. The jack is nice and solidly held in place, no rattling or anything!

Close-ups of the final pic:

 

One more picture. It took about 45 minutes to make the whole thing, and was cheap to boot!

 

Friend of mine with a 2nd gen bolted his to the inside of the tail gate.
jim

 

That's not a bad idea either, though on my hatch, I'd be afraid it'd drop on my head...

 

Thanks for the credit David but I stole the idea from Schaefer. It is a very cheap and effective way to mount the jack...I like it alot.

 

Great job. Thanks to all! I may just have to copy this one myself. I like the fact that it doesn't require drilling any more hole im my runner.

 

One other thing you may add, is to upgrade the wimpy bolts holding the stock tie-down loops, to a grade 8 bolt. The one that is there will most likely break in the event of an accident or rollover, there is no way it's gonna hold the weight of the hilift. When I did mine (saw schaefer's in ocotillo) I pulled the loop out to get an idea of what length bolt to replace it with, when I put it back in I tightened too much and it sheared right off. I'm talking about 1/2 to a full turn tighter and it twisted the bolt head clean off. I think steve also recommends the bolt upgrade on his site, thats where I got the idea.

 

Good idea Rob. Its been on my list things to do. If I replace the bolts, I'll probably go with a different setup altogether and just bolt it right to the floor. Thanks for reminding me about the bolt thing.