I ordered the SAWS front coilovers and shocks and OME HD rear shocks and springs.

Installation is very straight forward and easy. The biggest hiccup being the infamous locking nuts on the top of the rear shock hat. I spent the most energy and sweat on adjustment of the front suspension height. I bent the spanner wrench after I adjustment. Fortunately, it's only about a 1/4" difference between passenger and driver side and another spanner wrench is on the way.

I've included one of the pics I took after the suspension settled in (a few days of driving and 4 wheel alignment).

The ride is smoother than stock with more travel when going offroad.
Don't fool yourself thinking it'll ride like a Lexus, but it's definitely an improvement over stock. Very good rebounding and dampening.

I'll upload a few pics of the install process when I convert them into smaller files.

I probably need new tires and wheels, but I've got too many other projects to finish. I'll also post a new thread with my SecondSkin install for the audiophiles.

J

 

nice man. i like the way every OME users runners look... when i get a lift, ill probably go that route myself.

 

Looks real good, you definitely need bigger tires now.

 

Quite spiffy.
Mike

 

Im jealous, I only could do the Revtek lift. I wanted to Saw but it was to expensive to ship to Hawaii. I got my revtek installed for under $500. But the sad thing, is that there is marjor sag in the rear. But your lift Rocks!!!!

 

Nice, that looks good. I did the same lift on my 4runner last weekend. It's awesome. I know what you mean about the spanner wrench bending. I kept having to hammer it back into shape to adjust the SAW's.

 

I need to take the running board off the driver side....

 

Measuring before the installation.

After letting the suspension settle after OME installation, I measured about 37.75".

J

 

Handy tool that helps loosen the locking nut on the shock hat.
I bought mine at Autozone, but I believe Walmart has a set for cheaper than $5. I paid $7 for a mine (2 sizes).

J

 

I disconnected the rear sway bar brackets that mount on the axle housing.
I believe it's 10mm bolt heads (2x per bracket) and they hook into place from the bottom to top.

J

 

Disconnect the traverse support bar. I believe I used a 21mm for the bolt head. The other side (passenger side) is the better end for re-connecting it.

J

 

I was trying to show my set-up for lowering the axle housing to the ground so you can remove the stock springs. The manual calls for chains to bind the spring to the axle housing in case it "pops" out. I figured if I lowered it slow enough, it wouldn't pop out and it works.

I used heavy duty jack stands for the frame near the rear fuel tank.
I supported the axle housing with a 1 ton jack.
Provide good enough clearance so you can lower the axle housing enough to pull the springs out.

NOTICE: Before you disconnect and/or lower the axle housing, make sure you disconnect the brake line brackets on the axle housing. I believe I used 12mm for 4 brackets (one on each side, two near the top of the housing).

J

 

A pic of the new springs and an old spring I removed.

J

 

Here is the driver side OME HD spring in place.

J

 

Here is the passenger side after I replaced the shock and spring.

It's very straight forward. I used Liquid Wrench on the locking nuts for a few days. I doubt it helped that much as I still had trouble with a cheap impact ratchet or my gloves. The strap wrench I borrowed from a neighbor was saturated with motor oil and the metal shaft of the tool bent the shock body.
I tried the cheap plastic strap wrench from Autozone.
I surprised myself by the ease of breaking loose the locking nut with the strap wrench on the shock body and breaker bar/big wrench held in place with my hand (passenger side) or against the frame.

It rides high, but surprisingly stable. I'm used to sports cars, so the higher center of gravity is a new sensation for me.
It was great during a little offroad break I took during the rain the other day.

I can't wait to try towing stuff with it.
The rear stock set-up (~88000 miles of age) was no good when I towed my friends IS300 on a 21' trailer. Talk about the tail wagging the dog!! I couldn't drive faster than 45mph.

J

 

Sorry for many pics, but I thought it may help "encourage" a person if they encounter some difficulty in this project.

Now I have to prep up for a timing belt change.

J

 

Looks great!!
I am going to be doing mine here very shortly. I bought the same set up you did.

 

What does your front currently measure?

 

ajatx-

Hey, nice runner you have rolling there. With some larger rubber you'll be set. Is that your RX-7 in the background??? I have been on an endless hunt for a 3rd gen(93-95) and may end up buying a 97 Viper. If you are interested in selling that car or if you could even get me some more info regarding it, that would be killer. Thanks a ton, again your ride is looking dope for sure.

Billy

 

The front is about 37.5"
Actually, one side is 37.75" and the other side is 37.5".


4unabilly,
I was thinking about selling it, but I just got a new twin plate clutch and big brake kit. I want to track it out for one more summer. It's got a Garrett GT35/40 turbo (quick spool with 35 hot end and good efficiency with the 40 comp side). I have both a modified ECU (G-force unlimited) and AEM EMS. I love the customizations for the AEM. I need to install water injection and perhaps bigger primary injectors (160lb/hr) for high boost. I also need to add a fuel tank reservoir to prevent fuel slosh on the track.

J